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Discussion Starter #61
Can spray adhesive be used on it to apply it to the wall... or is it too porous and thin? After all, you did mention spongy. I was thinking about maybe doing the entire front wall in it... maybe over some 705 or similar.
 

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Umm, the stuff I have is self adhesive like the "contact" that you cover books in, except that it is flocking, not plastic...but the same deal, peel away the backing and then stick it on the clean surface.

I did use spray adhesive for foam tiles though, but found that double sided tape worked better there too...

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Where in the USA might one find this stuff that you use? Does it have a specific name?
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I am going to need something wider than 3" for covering the front wall.

I might order some of the Fidelio velvet and some of that self sticking velvet that Rodny posted a link to, and see how they compare.
 

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I think we're talking about three different things here..

For the screen borders, you will need to have them covered with Fidelio velvet or the flock adhesive tape,.,.

If you are planning to cover the front wall around the perimeter of the screen, then you don't need to use the Fidelio velvet..
Any good black velvet or velveteen will be fine...There won't be any light spill on that area..

If you're looking at a screen wall, with speakers mounted behind it, then you will need to use something like GOM or an open weave material..
 

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Discussion Starter #69
No speakers behind anything.

Do they make Fidelio velvet in 3" widths with the adhesive backing?
 

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Some people staple it on, others just glue it on..
I think a combination of both is the easiest and most effective way of covering your borders..

Just spray on glue to the timber borders and bond your pre-cut strips of velvet to the face and edges..and then staple it down on the back..
 

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Discussion Starter #73
OK... so as far as you know the velvet material is not too porous for spray adhesive to leak through... providing it is not caked on like molasses.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Just working on the HT room to where I get to the point of doing the screen. I may end up going with an Elite screen 2.35:1, which already has a border.

I will not be doing a lens at this time. I will use the Panny 3000 lens memory feature.
 

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I know this thread is a little old, but I hope I'm not too late to help out if I can. Let me start by saying that I am a big fan of anamorphic lenses, and having installed and experienced them, I fully understand their benefits and drawbacks. They can provide a powerful, immersive experience, and I love that. But there are also some technical challenges that need to be worked out to give a successful presentation.

One aspect (pun intended) that is not often considered is how the screen will look within the room. For a room that is relatively wide like yours, Sonnie, a 2.35:1 screen would probably look very good. In some narrow rooms, you might get a "wall-to-wall" screen effect with a 2.35:1 screen; but the relatively small vertical height of the screen compared to the ceiling height might make the screen itself look small. In such a case, one might be better off with a 1.78:1 screen. There are many factors to consider in good home theater design, and we just need to make sure we look at them all.

I agree with your decision to use the lens memory feature. Not every projector has this, and it is a great asset. And I don't think you will have much problem with brightness or resolution, provided your screen isn't too huge. As for the aspect ratio, have you considered using a 2.0:1 screen? I know you would have to get a custom screen built, which may or may not cost more, but either way it is still much less expensive than using an anamorphic lens. Most manufacturers are willing to accomodate custom screen sizes. By using a 2.0:1 screen, you would have the largest average picture size no matter what aspect ratio you watch (see diagram). Notice how close in size the 2.35 and 1.78 aspect ratios are. Yes, there would be black bars with every aspect ratio, but their size would be minimized and unless you have a masking screen or masking curtains (for 2.35:1 screens), everyone has to live with them anyway. I know 2.0:1 screens are not well known (nor are they a standard size with most manufacturers), but they are starting to turn up in some high-end screening rooms.

Since you have the lens memory feature, using a 2.0:1 screen is an option for you that most people don't have. If it were my own theater, that's the way I would go. I would program in as many aspect ratios as the projector allows.

On the diagram, I selected a screen that is about the same height as the screens in your diagram for illustration purposes. Your screen size might vary depending on seating distance and projector location. Hope this helps!

2.0.gif
 

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I just ordered a Stewart CineW 2.35 (56" height) for my new room. My first curved screen. Looking forward to getting it in and hung. Trying to work out a way to move my PJ back a little though.
 
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