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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any suggestions for how to install a run of Inch and a half conduit horizontally, about 5-6 feet, through an insulated exterior wall ? :dontknow:

I have a TV that is to be mounted on a wall directly above an in-wall gas fireplace so i cannot go straight down to the crawlspace. Currently the space above the fireplace is recessed for the old tube TV, but it will soon be studded up and and drywalled flat.

Trying to get the wires down the wall to the component shelves but i dont have a way to bore holes big enough for the conduit at such distances. The only solution i can think of requires about 5-6 feet of new drywall :doh:
 

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Hmm. I think if you're paying someone to do the work, I'd talk to them about running the conduit and replacing the drywall, or, doing the tearout and install of the conduit myself, then having them patch the hole(s). My viewpoint is that they're already there doing the work, slapping up another patch of drywall and taping/mudding won't take long, and should only marginally increase the labor costs, compared to framing and 1 chunk of drywall.

If you do the latter, make sure you use a straightedge to do your cuts, and make the cuts parallel, so they don't have to do any funky shaped patches. Squares and rectangles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ill be doing the work myself. i think that tearing out a little bit more drywall is gonna be my best option. Should i just cut out a path wide enough to work in, or should i go all the way to the floor to have only one seam to be patched ?

Also, whats the best way to transition from 1.5 inch conduit to the outside of a wall ?
 

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With your level of expertise unknown, patching 1 big hole is probably easier than multiple little ones, and gives you the best chance for a smooth finish. That's up to you.

You should be able to find one of the tin forms that fits into a hole in the drywall, and just has tabs that bend over behind the drywall to hold it in, plus threaded holes to screw on a cover. You can just have the conduit end where you like, put the tin form in, and cover on, and you're done, no box necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ah, a tin form. Sounds perfect, but I don't think i know what that looks like of the top of my head. What aisle at lowe's would i find that in ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am familiar with that box. I can even use a new work box since the drywall will be cut out. But how do i transition between the conduit and the box ?
 

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I am familiar with that box. I can even use a new work box since the drywall will be cut out. But how do i transition between the conduit and the box ?
I have one question? Maybe Two I lied..

1) How was the first TV wired up in the recess that you are removing?

2) If you are looking to secure the cabling from heat the conduit would likely attract more heat than just leaving wires open..Think about it..

The box you were shown is an open recepticle type box They make deep conduit (emt) boxes with multi size holes availble at any home supply or electric supply house...

You may want to use a two gang or 3 gang..

Have A Great Day!!:T
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The first tv had coax ran into the back of the opening, but now it will be Fios so i am only running HDMI and component/audio through the conduit. There is also an existing 120V outlet that i will be bringing forward to power the tv.

I am not really concerned with heat, only with having an easy channel to add or remove wires in the future. I have been looking at the resi-guard vs straight gray PVC and think ill go with the resi-guard since i am moving diagonally from the tv down to the components.
I plan on using a 2gang box with the Fios coax coming in on one side of it. I havent seen a box(old work or otherwise) that accepts 1.5inch conduit though :(
 

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Just install the conduit so it ends in the vicinity of the box cutout, maybe an inch or two short of the cutout. It doesn't need to be connected to the box in any way. Your fingers will work to fish it out of the end of the conduit. If you use the low voltage type, it's just a frame to screw the faceplate to, with no way to connect anything, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds good. Does it matter what type of A/V wiring i use in-wall ? Not just for performance, but for any fire or code requirements ?
 

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For the wiring, you'll want CL2, monoprice.com is a great value.

For the structural stuff, you'll want an engineer, and I'm not.
 
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