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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My Center Stage XD material arrived today. I did the following to convert my Elunevision screen to an AT screen:

1. Removed the fabric from the frame.

2. Took the frame apart so that I could remove the screen tension screws.

3. Screwed (cut to fit) 1-1/2" "Screen Tight" to the back side of the frame.

4. Angled 10' long x 8' high XD fabric onto my 106" 16/9 frame.

5. Attached screen to frame using 1/8" screen bead.

6. Attached "Screen Tight" cap and cut off excess fabric.

7. Hung frame back on wall.

Real easy transformation. Only took me about 2-1/2 hours.


Materials used
four pieces of 1-1/2" Screen Tight www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21532-958-BASE18&lpage=none

Four pieces of 1-1/2" Screen Tight cap www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=21553-958-BRCAP18&lpage=none

1/2" pan head tek screws (these are not the ones I used. I have some in inventory at the office) www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/3636487

1/8" screen bead www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=39173-55-3007734&lpage=none

My picture taking is not very good, but here they are anyway,
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0567.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0568.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0569.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0570.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0571.jpg Subs have grills, but flash shows the aluminum drivers.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0573.jpg

Easy to convert any Aluminum frame for spline fit of fabric. I would probably use this method if I was building a frame from wood. When you snap the cap onto the "Screen Tight" base it holds the fabric tight to the back side of the frame. My splined material fits tighter to the back of the frame than the original fastening system that Elunevision used. Picture quality is very good. No moire either. Love having the voices coming from the screen rather than below the screen. Highly recommend this type of install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have now added an adjustable horizontal masking system to my 106" fixed frame screen.

My masking system consists of the following items:
1. 7 ply fiberglass faced plywood. (Had this at the shop so I used it)
2. Two pieces of flat stock sheet metal. (Had this at the shop. I think it is 24gauge.)
3. Flat stock of sheet metal. (Had this at the shop. I think it is 28 gauge.)
4. 12' of 1/16" air craft cable. TSC
5. Triple black velvet. SY Fabrics
6. Small turnbuckles for cable length adjustment. TSC
7. Four 1/16" cable clamps. TSC
8. Two oval chain links to connect turnbuckles to masking system. TSC
9. Two screw hooks to hang pulleys. TSC
10. Four heavy duty draw slides. Lowes
11. Two pieces of 12" long 1/2"x1/2" aluminum angle. (Had this at the shop.)
12. Sheet metal screws, wood screws, wood glue and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. (Had these materials at the shop.)

I made four sheet metal angles (24 gauge) 3/4"x2"x8" long for brackets. These were fastened vertically to the back of the screen frame, about 1-1/4" in from the outside edge of the screen frame. I attached the draw slides to these brackets. I made four sheet metal (28 gauge) U-brackets to wrap around the end of the screen frame. These brackets have a 3/4" leg coming off of the "U" so that I could connect the other half of the draw slide the the "U" bracket. The "U"-brackets are 6" long and the legs are 3" (face) 2-3/8" (side) 1-1/4" (return at back) and 3/4" leg to attach to draw slide. With the brackets and draw slides in place I now have four pieces of flat sheet metal (face of "U"-bracket 6" high x 3" wide) in front of my screen frame to attach the masking panels. These brackets are free to move (18" total) up and down the vertical face of my screen frame.

For the masking panels I cut three 8" wide strips from the plywood. The third strip is need so that I can make two panels 98-3/8" long. I beveled the top edge so that when the panels are in place there is a slope on the edge towards the screen. I used wood glue and biscuit joints to make the panels the length I needed. Next I simply covered the panels with Triple Black Velvet.

Since the distance from the back of the masking panel to my screen is about 1-1/4" I needed a way to extend the masking back to the screen. For this I made two sheet metal angles (24 gauge) 91-1/2" long with 1-1/8" leg and a 2" leg. inside to inside of my screen frame is 91-3/4" so I have 1/8" clearance on each side. These sheet metal angles serve two purposes. One is to extend the masking to the screen and the other is to keep the masking panels from ever bowing. Angle is attached to the masking panel every 10" with wood screws. The angle sticks up above the masking panel 1/8".

To cover the angles I cut two strips of velvet 4" wide and 94" long. I sandwiched the velvet between the masking panel and the sheet metal angle. The ends of the velvet were folded back and tucked under the ends of the angle. This created an edge that extended about 3/16" past the end of the angle. This was done to fill the 1/8" gap between the masking and the inside edge of my frame. I then sprayed the inside of the angle with Super 77 and wrapped the velvet around the angle.

I removed the sheet metal "U"-brackets from the screen. They slide off when you press a release button on the draw slide. I then screwed the brackets to the back (end) of the masking panels. Then I simply slid the brackets back onto the draw slides. With the masking panels fully open (1.78) the 91-1/2" long sheet metal angle rests against the inside edge of my screen.

The cable system is very simple and used by others. I attached the 12" long x 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angles to the back of the "U"-brackets on the top mask so that I would have a cable attachment point six inches below the masking panel. This allowed me to mount the two pulleys lower so that they are behind the screen rather than above the screen. I installed the two pulleys so that the top of the pulley is about 1-1/2" below the top of the screen. I connected a turnbuckle to the bottom mask and ran the cable up to the pulley and then down to the bottom of the 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angle connected to the "U"-bracket. I did the same on the other side. I adjusted the turnbuckles so that the masking when fully open has the 91-1/2" sheet metal angle resting against the inside edge of my screen. Now when one panel is moved the other panel moves the same amount in the opposite direction.

I did not take pictures during the install, but here are pictures of the masking panels in place.

1.78 screen aspect ratio
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0576.jpg


2.40 aspect ratio
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0580.jpg


2.40 aspect ratio (the above picture over exposed to show masking system)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0598-1.jpg


Close up of lower left corner. (over exposed so that you can see the masking)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0599.jpg


Cable system. This photo was taken before I painted the "U"-bracket black.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0585.jpg


The key to this whole thing is the 91-1/2" velvet wrapped sheet metal angle. Since the mask panels are in front of my screen frame I needed a way to get the mask edge to the screen and yet when fully opened would not block off much of the screen when watching 1.78 material. The only problem with my masking, you can't just reach up with one hand a pull it into place. You have to adjust each side of the top masking panel to get a perfect alignment. You only have to do this with one mask since the masked are connected with cables. Not a big deal because I can slide the masking into the correct position in about 5 seconds.

I have a solution for the above problem and it will be cheap to implement, just have not had time to do anything with it yet. I am going to get two or three 1/2" stamped steel pillow block bearings and a 98-1/4" long, 1/2" steel pipe. That and a little bit of wood blocking is all I will need. The pipe with pillow blocks will be placed horizontally behind my screen so that the edge of the pipe lines up with the 1/16" cable. Then I will just need to wrap the cable around the pipe (2 wraps). This way when you pull down on the masking the pipe will rotate and move both ends of the masking the same. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I added the pillow block bearings and a piece of 1/2" EMT to my horizontal masking system as I talked about in the last paragraph of my post above. With the cables wrapped two turns around the EMT, both side are now tied together. Now when I pull down on the top mask to slide the masks into place the top mask moves down level and the lower mask moves up level. I think my masking is complete.

Picture showing the 1/2" pillow block bearings and 1/2" EMT.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Upstairs%20dedicated%20HT%20room/IMGP0601.jpg
 
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