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Cream&Sugar™ - an N9 reflective screen mix.

80622 Views 298 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  Harpmaker
11
4-27-11
This thread will be maintained for those that already have a C&S screen and wish to discuss it, and for historical reasons. These formulae will not work with the current Craft Smart silver paint sold by Michael's. Those wishing to built a new C&S™ screen should read the thread on the mix that replaces C&S™,
Cream&Sugar™ Ultra.

2-9-11
I must sadly report that Michael's has changed the formulation of their Craft Smart silver paint and it will no longer work well to make Cream&Sugar™ with. Expect a new C&S™ formula soon; until then continue using the old silver paint where available, see this post for details.
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Hi folks!

There seems to be a lot of interest in lighter reflective DIY screen paints. Even though I am really going in the opposite direction in search of a really good dark reflective screen paint, I decided to see if the reflective ingredient I was using could also be used for a very light screen.

The data and photos below should be enough to give you a good idea of what the mix I call "Cream&Sugar" will do. They aren't appealing "screenies", but they tell the story, at least most of it. ;)

I call this mix Cream&Sugar because it isn't white, but an off-white kind of like cream, and the sparkle in the mix is the sugar. As will be shown later, the mix is neutral, but just barely. :sweat:

Addendum: During the course of this thread I developed three different Cream&Sugar mixes and designated them C&S #1, C&S #2 and C&S #3. The formula given below is now called C&S #1.

All 3 mixes give essentially the same result, they just use different bases or paint colors to achieve the same result.

New addendum: I've added the formulae for C&S #2 and C&S #3 to this post so all mix ingredient info is in one place. To not leave holes in the flow of the thread I've left the original posts (along with their Spectral Reflectance Charts) in their original place in the thread.


C&S #1 (special note: As of October 2009 Sherwin-Williams is discontinuing Luminous White in many of there paints, if you are having trouble finding LW please try either C&S #2 or C&S #3)
[Another special note: as of December 2010 it seems that Luminous White is still available in some areas, but it might have to be special ordered from your store]
First, the ingredients; the "cream" is Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex and the "sugar" is Craft Smart Metallic Silver. These are mixed in a 2:1 ratio; 2 parts LW (Luminous White) to 1 part CSMS (Craft Smart Metallic Silver). The LW is available from Sherwin-Williams stores and the CSMS is available from Michael's arts & crafts stores; and only Michael's. In the post following this one I will describe how those not having access to the above ingredients can possibly substitute their own locally available materials.

The CSMS is a reflective ingredient that I am using to make an N7 mix that is showing great promise, but that's for another thread. :cunning: I should also add here that while I don't know what material is used to make the CSMS sparkle, it doesn't show a prismatic effect like all of the mica-based silver paints I have tried do. No rainbows from CSMS, even when used full strength. In this regard, it acts a lot like aluminum flakes, but it isn't near as "darkening" when added to a mix.

CSMS is also inexpensive; it's $1 for 4 ounces, $2 for 8 ounces and $4 for 16 ounces. That puts it at $8 per quart, which is cheaper than most house paints. :T

The mix is:
One quart Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex (this is a base color, not a tint). Not all SW paints are available in this base color.
One 16 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver

It is my hope that others will continue with adaptations to this original mix using different white paints and seeing how they work out. I strongly suggest not deviating from the use of the CSMS, unless absolutely necessary, since that could really throw off the color and reflectiveness of the mix.

The first photo is of a bottle of CSMS so you know what to look for at Michael's.


Now some microscope pics for those that care about such things. :bigsmile: As with most microscope shots, the color is not correct.
C&S at 60x


C&S at 200x (this pic displays an area about 1/32 inch wide)


A Spectral Chart of Cream&Sugar. Note that the fancy name isn't used in the chart. This mix has not been color-corrected to make it neutral, it is a simple two-part mix. Of special note is that the L* value in the top-left of the chart is 90.31, this equates to a Munsell Gray of N9; a pure white would be 100 or N10. The a* and b* values are under 1.0 (+ or - doesn't matter) so the mix is considered neutral.


Since C&S will be compared to a Kilz2 panel, I have included a Spectral Chart of my batch of Kliz2 as well. you can see that Kilz2 is brighter than C&S with a L* value of 92.29, the other values show my batch of Kilz2 wasn't neutral (but close enough for gov'ment work :)).


Now some panel photos.

The panels are, from left to right, Kilz2, C&S, Black Widow BB/AAA 4:1 and BW WM/HE558 5:1. Only the left two panels are of true interest to us in this thead. I used the BW panels to hide most of the wall :heehee: which can still be seen in place of a 5th panel. I placed an "X" there with masking tape, kindly ignore this "panel". :whistling:

Panels under room light with camera auto-white-balancing.


Panels under projector light using a 100% white image, head on.


Color Bars, head on.


White image at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at about 170 degrees. Sorry, I was in a hurry and forgot to take a white image at this angle. :doh:


While I don't have the photos to prove it, the C&S panel had slightly deeper blacks than the Kilz2 panel. Of course, they were much lighter than the BW panels, but we're not counting those this time. :) I didn't have the disk that contained the gray-scale photo I use, so I had to make do with what I had. :huh:

All-in-all, I think that C&S has similar whites to the Kilz2 panel while being a slightly darker panel. Also, the C&S was more neutral, which does make a difference if you can't adjust your PJ's R, G and B channels independently (I can't).
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Since people were not finding Sherwin-Williams Luminous White in quart sizes I decided to try to find C&S mixes that did to keep costs down. The following two mixes will also give good results and will be cheaper since you don't have to buy a $30+ gallon of white paint.

C&S#2
The first of the two is a more complicated mix than I wanted to use for C&S, but I'll list it since it is the most neutral mix I have tested so far and the paints, except the white paint, should be in the same area at Michael's since they are the same brand. It goes against my stated "3 paints or less" rule for C&S, but...

The down-side to this mix is it is a bit darker than N9 coming in at N8.8 for my sample chit. The up-side is it is the most neutral C&S mix yet.

You will need 4 different paints to make C&S#2.
One quart Behr UPW #1850 (acording to my spectro, Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat should work as well). Use the standard ultra-white base not a numbered base.
One 8 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Gold
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Bronze


The Gold and Bronze paints are needed to color-correct the mix. The neat thing is that ALL paints added to the white base are metallic so they all help make the mix reflective. The ratio of white paint to metallic paint is still 2:1 as in C&S #1.

The ratio of paint is:
UPW 8 parts
CSMS (silver) 2 parts
CSMG (gold) 1 part
CSMB (bronze) 1 part

Empty the paint into a large container and stir until blended. A squirrel-cage stirring attachment for a hand-drill is highly recommended as is washing the bottles of CSMS out with distilled water to get all the paint out - add the water to the mix.

I know this looks complicated, but it isn't. The key is that NO ingredient needs to be measured. It isn't hard to find the paints either since the white paint is simply a quart off the shelf that doesn't need to be tinted, and all 3 of the metallic paints should be close together at Michael's.


C&S#3
This mix is based on a custom-color paint from True Value hardware stores called "Refinement". The same ratio is used as in C&S #1, but the Luminous White is replaced with the "Refinement".

One quart True Value Trucolor "Refinement"
One 16 oz. bottle of Craft Smart Metallic Silver.


It turns out that some people don't have a True Value store near them (I'm not even sure they are in Canada at all) so I developed a matching paint that can be gotten at Lowe's. In time I will put another tint formula here for Behr #1850.
An alternate base paint to use to make C&S #3 is Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat tinted with the following formula:
Using Base 1
107 0.5
116 0.5
113 24


Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.

===
I finally had success matching the base for C&S #3 at Home Depot using Behr #1850.
The tint formula for the C&S #3 base at Home Depot is:
1 quart of Behr #1850 paint (ultra white base, which is what the 1850 means as well as the paint type)
Code:
[B]Tint   oz.   384th oz.
C        0       4
F        0       1[/B]
Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.
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Cant wait to hear the results of the new test. I really hope it is still neutral with the new silver I used.
Early tests are showing that C&S™ pushes a bit blue with the new Craft Smart Silver, but this is using the C&S™#3 formula. I'll do more testing with the Sherwin-Williams base like you used ( C&S™#1) and let you know.

Don't be overly concerned even if you have a slight blue push with this mix. While the C&S™#3 test I did was outside of our exacting neutrality criteria, it is still way more neutral than Goo Systems (a commercial screen paint) gray offerings, and many of the commercial gray screens.

The "problem" with the new Craft Smart Silver is that the paint seems to have some real aluminum in it rather than being an aluminum coated polyester flake like the old CSMS. Real elemental aluminum particles are great, but they darken whatever mix they are in and give it a blueish push that must be compensated for by using a colored base like Black Widow™. This darkening effect is why we don't use the aluminum paint used to make BW™ to make C&S™.

Thanks again for notifying us about the new Craft Smart Silver!
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4
The tests are in for C&S™ made with the new Craft Smart Silver, and they aren't good. With the new paint the mixes are too high in the blue and green portions of the spectrum to meet our neutrality standards. We CANNOT recommend using the new Craft Smart Silver to make C&S™. Those that are thinking about making a C&S™ screen in the near-future should search the Michael's stores that are available to them to obtain the older Craft Smart Metallic Silver while it is yet available. A new formulation for making C&S™ is in the works and will be published shortly.

People that have used the new silver paint to make their C&S™ screens don't need to repaint them if they are happy with them; the mix works fine, but it will push blue a bit, but it's not as far off-color as some commercial gray screens or commercial screen mixes.






The paint to look for appears in the photo below. 2 oz., 8 oz., and 16 oz. bottles.

2 oz. bottle #23665

8 oz. bottle #23699

16 oz. bottle #23724




Old and new 8 oz. bottles side-by-side.


This new silver paint by Craft Smart looks like an excellent paint, but it will not work for making C&S™.
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Hi Guys
My first post. Hope I am asking this question at the right place. What is the best way to spray the paint to a stretched BOC. I amean what model sprayer are you guys using? I was reading the posts for qite a bit but could not find the answer. Maybe I missed it. Is there a spraying instruction section?

This is a fantastic site! Hats off to you guys doing all these testing and all for eveybody's benefit!
Thanks
Hi tekkumala, welcome to the forum! :wave:

I use a compressor powered HVLP spray gun and I believe Mech uses a Wagner CS electric HVLP sprayer. I bought a Wagner CS DD (currently the most common model found in stores), but haven't used it yet. Basically, any HVLP (High Pressure Low Volume) or LVLP (Low Pressure Low Volume) spray gun or system would work for spraying a screen. The older conventional high pressure spray guns will work, but they waste at least 70% of the paint (which goes everywhere in the room BUT the screen).

You are correct, we don't have a good thread on spraying screens. I guess the primary reason for that (besides laziness :whistling:) is that the exact spraying instructions will be slightly different depending on the gun or system used. What they all have in common is that the screen mix MUST be thinned a bit with distilled water to get it the proper consistency to spray properly through the gun. A general beginning point for thinning is 25%, but depending on the paint and system used it could be as high as 50%.

The gun should be adjusted to spray the widest "fan" it can, this is usually about 8" to 12" with the gun 12"-14" away from the screen. The gun should be spraying out either a fine mist of paint or at least very small droplets. If the paint is coming out in irregular spurts or large and small droplets then the paint needs to be thinned some more.

You have asked this question in the C&S™ thread so I assume you are thinking of using this mix. Be aware that the metallic paint used in this mix is no longer being sold by Michael's so unless you already have some on a shelf you would have to use the new C&S™ Ultra mix, which has it's own thread.

Spraying a BOC screen can be a bit troublesome. What many times happens is that the fine "hairs" sticking up off the BOC surface will not flatten when sprayed like they do when rolled. Highside is a member here that has painted BOC screens successfully, I hope he pops in here with some advice for you.
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Harp
Thanks for the quick reply. I was actually in the black widow thread but jumped to this side and the spraying question was a general one. I have a JVC RS1 projector and currently using a mat white screen in a reasonably light controlled room. Just want to try out a gray screen. What do you recommend? C&S or Black widow? when we add water to thin down the paint wouldn't the particles separate?
Another
Thanks
What size screen are you going to be painting?

Is there anything "wrong" with your current image on the white screen, or do you just want to see if you're missing anything by not using a gray screen?

If you just want a little bit of help with contrast and color depth then I would use C&S™ (if you already have the ingredients) or C&S™ Ultra. If you want to watch your PJ with a good bit of ambient light in the room then give BW™ a shot.

BTW, I soon hope to have a dark neutral gray paint formula finalized to act as a "shade adjuster" when added to C&S™ Ultra so it can be made to just about any shade you need.

If you thin a paint mix containing aluminum too much some of the aluminum will want to float to the surface in the spray gun. This isn't as much of a problem with C&S™ or C&S™ Ultra since they don't contain metallic aluminum. With my spray equipment I usually thin my BW™ mixes about 30% and have had no problems with aluminum separation. If I notice a few flakes on the top of the paint in the gun's cup I just swirl the paint around a few times before spraying the next coat.
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Right now I don't know if I am missing anything from my current screen. It is about 106" diagonal. I am happy with it but I don't have anything to compare with. But just like any DIYer you will never be satisfied with what you have and always looking for ways to improve. So I think I will give it a shot with C&S ultra and compare .
Thanks
To see a photographic comparison of C&S™ Ultra to two slightly different white painted test screens see the 3rd post in the C&S™ Ultra thread here. There isn't much difference, in fact on axis I think the C&S™ Ultra is brighter than the paint Projector Central called a match to a 1.3 gain white commercial screen (I think they were wrong, but we haven't measured the Sherwin-Williams white paints for gain yet).
Thanks for the reply. This next question is for anybody who had used BOC for spraying/rolling. Which side of the cloth would you be using? One side is smooth and slightly rubbery and other side feels like cloth.
Spraying a BOC screen can be a bit troublesome. What many times happens is that the fine "hairs" sticking up off the BOC surface will not flatten when sprayed like they do when rolled. Highside is a member here that has painted BOC screens successfully, I hope he pops in here with some advice for you.
I saw this post last night and wanted to respond, but it was late and I was having a hard time finding an older post.:eek:lddude: That's not saying much since I don't have a lot of posts to wallow through.:dumbcrazy:

Anyway, here is my older post explaining a sure fire way to paint a BOC screen with a roller.

BOC must be rolled for the first coat. Then you can paint it with whatever method you feel after that.

...Rolling the screen is actually quite easy and will go on rather well if it is not one of the more advanced mixes. If you are needing to roll, here's what you do....

Lay your screen on the floor. As long as gravity doesn't sag your screen in this position, it's tight enough. Cover your trim with whatever method and have plastic underneath.

The mixing is quite easy and from my experience doesn't need to be dead on in amounts. Trust me;, this is not intended for a "SILVER" type job. Find one of the simple gray paints form one of the other threads here. Get a quart of it. Mix in about a 1/2 cup of Wagner brand "Floetrol" and some poly. You could even add some of the metallic paints if you so desire.

Your mix should be thinner than the paint alone, but not milky thin. Before I bought one of those squirrel mixers, I used an electric mixer beater chucked into a drill and it did just fine.... All mixed up.

Now use your typical paint rolling supplies but.....have a large scrap piece of cardboard and attach a broom handle to extend the roller handle. You need to be able to make one long stroke.

Load the roller with paint fairly heavy, then lightly unload it onto the scrap cardboard. Then roll the ends of the roller on the scrap. You're trying not to create an extra paint edge with the excess paint that typically works its way to the outside edges of the roller.

My method is a simple modification to tiddler's method as I only use one roller. (the white 3/16 rolls that can only be found at Lowes). Start at one side of the screen and using ZERO pressure on the roller, lay your roller in the middle and work all the way up, then all the way down letting the weight of the roller do the work (this is important with BOC). Don't worry if the roller slides or pushes at first. I t will begin to roll usually after the first stroke. All you need is a couple of strokes to get the screen (row) completely covered. Now reload and place the roller right next to the painted edge and do the same thing then work back to that previously painted 9". Don't over work it. Just a 2-3 full strokes to get your unpainted row done, then 2-3 more to blend back to the previous row. Don't go more than 1 or 2 rows back, the paint will be starting to get a bit tacky.

Continue this all the way across.

2 things now. The Floetrol WILL HELP level the paint as long as you can lay your screen flat while you roll. While blending into the previous row, WATCH to make sure the ends of the roller aren't leaving a slightly thicker "line" of paint. If so, immediately go over to your scrap and roll the ends out to get rid of that build up then get back to your blending and make sure that is corrected first.

If you're really fast (or confident) you can immediately go back and do another coat that will help blend it all together. I would wait though.

Let it dry a day, hand sand it with a piece of 320 grit feeling as you go along just to knock off the fuzz. (There really should be little to no fuzz even after the first coat, but more so any oddities that you would like to remove before another coat) Do not use a sanding block, they gouge BOC too easily. Wipe clean..

Repeat...

I know it's a lot of typed words but from start to finish is less that an hour. Prep your screen and floor for painting. Mix your paint, not worrying too much about the exact amounts. Roll with the above described method, crack a beer and watch dry....or not

Rob
Rob
Thank you very much. Are we using the soft rubbery side or the rough cloth side of the BOC?
Just a little explanation and addendum to Rob's post (thanks Rob :T). The "SILVER" screen paint mentioned isn't recommended by us except on rare occasions; it's basically a mix consisting of 95% clear "paint" (I have seen Behr Faux Glaze and water-based polyurethane recommended) and 5% Silver paint (many types have been recommended by the mixes designers). The problem is that we haven't found a clear medium yet that doesn't add yellow to the mix (poly does it from the beginning and just gets worse as it ages).

We don't recommend adding water-based poly to mixes for color reasons and we also haven't found that it aids in leveling the paint as it dries that much either.

Floetrol is fine. In the normal amounts recommended to be added to latex paint it will not affect the sheen or color of a mix, and it will aid in leveling the paint for a smoother finish. Be aware that it also extends the drying time of the paint.
Rob
Thank you very much. Are we using the soft rubbery side or the rough cloth side of the BOC?
I've always used the rubber side, but honestly, I'm not sure it would really matter since you're putting a fairly thick 1st coat on. Stick to the rubber side since its tried and true though.

Just a little explanation and addendum to Rob's post (thanks Rob :T). The "SILVER" screen paint mentioned isn't recommended by us except on rare occasions; it's basically a mix consisting of 95% clear "paint" (I have seen Behr Faux Glaze and water-based polyurethane recommended) and 5% Silver paint (many types have been recommended by the mixes designers). The problem is that we haven't found a clear medium yet that doesn't add yellow to the mix (poly does it from the beginning and just gets worse as it ages).

We don't recommend adding water-based poly to mixes for color reasons and we also haven't found that it aids in leveling the paint as it dries that much either.

Floetrol is fine. In the normal amounts recommended to be added to latex paint it will not affect the sheen or color of a mix, and it will aid in leveling the paint for a smoother finish. Be aware that it also extends the drying time of the paint.
Maybe I should pull that out of the post. My intent was to show that this method is for nearly anything BUT S.I.L.V.E.R..

EDIT: Ah ha, I see where I mentioned adding poly with the Floetrol. Since my current screen is C&S, all I can comment on in regards to Poly is that with the screens I painted WITH poly, I had no signs of yellowing. Others are going to have to make their own choice on whether to chance it or not. ***NOTE: My C&S screen DOES NOT contain Poly, Don:T
The thing with poly is that it the screen yellows equally. It would be very difficult without a reference to notice it at all. I didn't notice it with my old Fashion Gray screen until I held up a small sample of Fashion Gray without polyurethane from Home Depot up next to it. Then it was pretty obvious.
Maybe I should pull that out of the post. My intent was to show that this method is for nearly anything BUT S.I.L.V.E.R..
No worries. It's OK to talk about any and all ways to make a DIY screen here. The idea behind SILVER (I'm too lazy to always spell it as it's designers intend which is S-I-L-V-E-R) is an interesting one, but it is probably the most difficult screen to spray (and it MUST be sprayed), and get consistent results, this is because it only contains 5% pigmented paint. The only thing harder to spray is a totally clear finish.

EDIT: Ah ha, I see where I mentioned adding poly with the Floetrol. Since my current screen is C&S, all I can comment on in regards to Poly is that with the screens I painted WITH poly, I had no signs of yellowing. Others are going to have to make their own choice on whether to chance it or not. ***NOTE: My C&S screen DOES NOT contain Poly, Don:T
People are, or course, free to make their own minds up concerning adding a water-based polyurethane to their screen mixes. The main reasons for doing so, however, would probably be better achieved by using a higher sheen paint to begin with (when poly is used as a sheen modifier) or to use Floetrol (when poly is used to retard drying time and help smooth a finish).
Which screen paint would you guys recommend for JVC RS40 ? I have 110" sintra board screen. Theres some ambient light in the room but i watch movies in complete darkness. Also i have blackout curtains on the windows , ceiling , and walls ( i'm in a apartment and i can't paint the ceiling ). Projector throw is 15'.
Which screen paint would you guys recommend for JVC RS40 ? I have 110" sintra board screen. Theres some ambient light in the room but i watch movies in complete darkness. Also i have blackout curtains on the windows , ceiling , and walls ( i'm in a apartment and i can't paint the ceiling ). Projector throw is 15'.
Since you have what almost amounts to a "bat cave" it sounds like a C&S™ Ultra screen would work good for you. Have you tried shooting an image on the bare Sintra? It should make a very nice white screen without painting IF it doesn't hot spot.

Please be aware that the original C&S™ mixes can no longer be made because Michael's changed the formulation of their Craft Smart silver paint so it gives a darker and non-neutral screen when used with the C&S™ formulae. C&S™ Ultra is a slightly brighter replacement mix. See the C&S™ Ultra thread for details.
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