Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

Cream&Sugar™ - an N9 reflective screen mix.

80633 Views 298 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  Harpmaker
4-27-11
This thread will be maintained for those that already have a C&S screen and wish to discuss it, and for historical reasons. These formulae will not work with the current Craft Smart silver paint sold by Michael's. Those wishing to built a new C&S™ screen should read the thread on the mix that replaces C&S™,
Cream&Sugar™ Ultra.

2-9-11
I must sadly report that Michael's has changed the formulation of their Craft Smart silver paint and it will no longer work well to make Cream&Sugar™ with. Expect a new C&S™ formula soon; until then continue using the old silver paint where available, see this post for details.
************************************************************************


Hi folks!

There seems to be a lot of interest in lighter reflective DIY screen paints. Even though I am really going in the opposite direction in search of a really good dark reflective screen paint, I decided to see if the reflective ingredient I was using could also be used for a very light screen.

The data and photos below should be enough to give you a good idea of what the mix I call "Cream&Sugar" will do. They aren't appealing "screenies", but they tell the story, at least most of it. ;)

I call this mix Cream&Sugar because it isn't white, but an off-white kind of like cream, and the sparkle in the mix is the sugar. As will be shown later, the mix is neutral, but just barely. :sweat:

Addendum: During the course of this thread I developed three different Cream&Sugar mixes and designated them C&S #1, C&S #2 and C&S #3. The formula given below is now called C&S #1.

All 3 mixes give essentially the same result, they just use different bases or paint colors to achieve the same result.

New addendum: I've added the formulae for C&S #2 and C&S #3 to this post so all mix ingredient info is in one place. To not leave holes in the flow of the thread I've left the original posts (along with their Spectral Reflectance Charts) in their original place in the thread.


C&S #1 (special note: As of October 2009 Sherwin-Williams is discontinuing Luminous White in many of there paints, if you are having trouble finding LW please try either C&S #2 or C&S #3)
[Another special note: as of December 2010 it seems that Luminous White is still available in some areas, but it might have to be special ordered from your store]
First, the ingredients; the "cream" is Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex and the "sugar" is Craft Smart Metallic Silver. These are mixed in a 2:1 ratio; 2 parts LW (Luminous White) to 1 part CSMS (Craft Smart Metallic Silver). The LW is available from Sherwin-Williams stores and the CSMS is available from Michael's arts & crafts stores; and only Michael's. In the post following this one I will describe how those not having access to the above ingredients can possibly substitute their own locally available materials.

The CSMS is a reflective ingredient that I am using to make an N7 mix that is showing great promise, but that's for another thread. :cunning: I should also add here that while I don't know what material is used to make the CSMS sparkle, it doesn't show a prismatic effect like all of the mica-based silver paints I have tried do. No rainbows from CSMS, even when used full strength. In this regard, it acts a lot like aluminum flakes, but it isn't near as "darkening" when added to a mix.

CSMS is also inexpensive; it's $1 for 4 ounces, $2 for 8 ounces and $4 for 16 ounces. That puts it at $8 per quart, which is cheaper than most house paints. :T

The mix is:
One quart Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex (this is a base color, not a tint). Not all SW paints are available in this base color.
One 16 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver

It is my hope that others will continue with adaptations to this original mix using different white paints and seeing how they work out. I strongly suggest not deviating from the use of the CSMS, unless absolutely necessary, since that could really throw off the color and reflectiveness of the mix.

The first photo is of a bottle of CSMS so you know what to look for at Michael's.


Now some microscope pics for those that care about such things. :bigsmile: As with most microscope shots, the color is not correct.
C&S at 60x


C&S at 200x (this pic displays an area about 1/32 inch wide)


A Spectral Chart of Cream&Sugar. Note that the fancy name isn't used in the chart. This mix has not been color-corrected to make it neutral, it is a simple two-part mix. Of special note is that the L* value in the top-left of the chart is 90.31, this equates to a Munsell Gray of N9; a pure white would be 100 or N10. The a* and b* values are under 1.0 (+ or - doesn't matter) so the mix is considered neutral.


Since C&S will be compared to a Kilz2 panel, I have included a Spectral Chart of my batch of Kliz2 as well. you can see that Kilz2 is brighter than C&S with a L* value of 92.29, the other values show my batch of Kilz2 wasn't neutral (but close enough for gov'ment work :)).


Now some panel photos.

The panels are, from left to right, Kilz2, C&S, Black Widow BB/AAA 4:1 and BW WM/HE558 5:1. Only the left two panels are of true interest to us in this thead. I used the BW panels to hide most of the wall :heehee: which can still be seen in place of a 5th panel. I placed an "X" there with masking tape, kindly ignore this "panel". :whistling:

Panels under room light with camera auto-white-balancing.


Panels under projector light using a 100% white image, head on.


Color Bars, head on.


White image at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at about 170 degrees. Sorry, I was in a hurry and forgot to take a white image at this angle. :doh:


While I don't have the photos to prove it, the C&S panel had slightly deeper blacks than the Kilz2 panel. Of course, they were much lighter than the BW panels, but we're not counting those this time. :) I didn't have the disk that contained the gray-scale photo I use, so I had to make do with what I had. :huh:

All-in-all, I think that C&S has similar whites to the Kilz2 panel while being a slightly darker panel. Also, the C&S was more neutral, which does make a difference if you can't adjust your PJ's R, G and B channels independently (I can't).
-----------------------------
Since people were not finding Sherwin-Williams Luminous White in quart sizes I decided to try to find C&S mixes that did to keep costs down. The following two mixes will also give good results and will be cheaper since you don't have to buy a $30+ gallon of white paint.

C&S#2
The first of the two is a more complicated mix than I wanted to use for C&S, but I'll list it since it is the most neutral mix I have tested so far and the paints, except the white paint, should be in the same area at Michael's since they are the same brand. It goes against my stated "3 paints or less" rule for C&S, but...

The down-side to this mix is it is a bit darker than N9 coming in at N8.8 for my sample chit. The up-side is it is the most neutral C&S mix yet.

You will need 4 different paints to make C&S#2.
One quart Behr UPW #1850 (acording to my spectro, Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat should work as well). Use the standard ultra-white base not a numbered base.
One 8 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Gold
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Bronze


The Gold and Bronze paints are needed to color-correct the mix. The neat thing is that ALL paints added to the white base are metallic so they all help make the mix reflective. The ratio of white paint to metallic paint is still 2:1 as in C&S #1.

The ratio of paint is:
UPW 8 parts
CSMS (silver) 2 parts
CSMG (gold) 1 part
CSMB (bronze) 1 part

Empty the paint into a large container and stir until blended. A squirrel-cage stirring attachment for a hand-drill is highly recommended as is washing the bottles of CSMS out with distilled water to get all the paint out - add the water to the mix.

I know this looks complicated, but it isn't. The key is that NO ingredient needs to be measured. It isn't hard to find the paints either since the white paint is simply a quart off the shelf that doesn't need to be tinted, and all 3 of the metallic paints should be close together at Michael's.


C&S#3
This mix is based on a custom-color paint from True Value hardware stores called "Refinement". The same ratio is used as in C&S #1, but the Luminous White is replaced with the "Refinement".

One quart True Value Trucolor "Refinement"
One 16 oz. bottle of Craft Smart Metallic Silver.


It turns out that some people don't have a True Value store near them (I'm not even sure they are in Canada at all) so I developed a matching paint that can be gotten at Lowe's. In time I will put another tint formula here for Behr #1850.
An alternate base paint to use to make C&S #3 is Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat tinted with the following formula:
Using Base 1
107 0.5
116 0.5
113 24


Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.

===
I finally had success matching the base for C&S #3 at Home Depot using Behr #1850.
The tint formula for the C&S #3 base at Home Depot is:
1 quart of Behr #1850 paint (ultra white base, which is what the 1850 means as well as the paint type)
Code:
[B]Tint   oz.   384th oz.
C        0       4
F        0       1[/B]
Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.
See less See more
11
21 - 40 of 299 Posts
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Hi Harp, Its sounding like you and I found a very easy screen to mix and paint. your results are very similar to what I have found I have been very happy with the results. By the way I reposted the pictures in my original thread here.
Yeah, the key word is EASY. Thanks for reposting your pics!

I think I may be on to a way for people to compensate for "regular" white paints making C&S too blue. It will mean adding one more color of paint in the mix, but that still makes it only 3 separate paints (White base, silver metallic and gold metallic). I have some sample chits drying and I'll post the results tomorrow.

In case anyone may be thinking "Where will it end? How many different paints are we going to need?", the answer is only 3 maximum. C&S was always meant to be a SIMPLE mix and it will remain so.

You and I should patent this design:bigsmile: Just kidding.
Oh man... don't even think about going there!:thud::joke:
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Tony..I'm only seeing one screenshot of Night at the Museum..Are there others that I'm not getting?
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Here are some Spectral Reflectance Curve charts to show what changing base white paints does to the mix.

The vertical axis is the reflectance value in percent; 0 would be 100% black and 100 would be 100% white if all points on the horizontal axis were the same (a straight flat horizontal line). Everything in between 0 and 100 would be a gray. What makes colors is a non-flat horizontal line.

The horizontal axis is made up of 31 color points from 400 nanometers (the beginning of Ultraviolet) to 700 nanometers (the beginning of Infrared) in 10 nanometer increments.

The color scale at the bottom of the chart is an approximation of what color each point on the horizontal scale is.

The first is the Luminous White/CSMS 2:1 mix as given in post #1


Kilz2 used as the base


Behr UPW used as a base


Ace Hardware white as a base


OK, so what does all this stuff mean? Without going into a bunch of color theory (well, maybe a little :)) the important thing is the flatness of the horizontal line. While it's a bit bumpy, the horizontal line in the first chart (LW) is fairly flat; the blue end of the line at 430 nanometers (before it takes a nose-dive) is at about 78% and the red end at 400 nanometers (abbreviated "nm") is about 75%. This is why the mix is considered a neutral gray (read about L*a*b* values in post #1).

If we look at the Kilz2 based chart we see there is a greater difference between the ends of the horizontal line. The blue is about 71% and the red is about 62%. We have a sloping line, not a straight line. This means the blue portion of the reflected white light from the screen would be about 9% brighter than the red portion. We call this situation "pushing" blue. This amount of blue push could probably be compensated for by adjusting the RGB colors on the projector, but some PJ's (like mine :() don't compensate well, so we strive for as true a gray mix as possible.

Don't be too concerned with the L* values of the charts (other than the LW one), these readings were taken from small sample mixes and the 2:1 ratio could be a bit off which would affect this value the most.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I'm working on a way to compensate for the blue push of using the regular white house paints by adding some gold metallic paint to the mix. I'll let you know how it works out.
See less See more
4
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Interesting Harp! I would've thought that the UPW would have been a bit better than the Luminous White. :scratch: It is interesting to see how the different whites perform though. It would be nice to see the spectrum stabilize itself as well. Even the LW shows a variation of 5 and the RGB's are a bit off.

If your open to suggestions, I'd recommend a touch of yellow and magenta. That should bring the green and blue down. I'd try to tackle it like the Bermuda Beige, mix up your base until it's right and then when it is dialed in you can get measurements and color match - if need be. Since you already have a bunch of metallic in the mix I'd leave the gold out. But what do I know! :neener:
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Interesting Harp! I would've thought that the UPW would have been a bit better than the Luminous White. :scratch: It is interesting to see how the different whites perform though. It would be nice to see the spectrum stabilize itself as well. Even the LW shows a variation of 5 and the RGB's are a bit off.
As far as I can tell, the "bumps" in the SC's (Spectral Charts) are coming from the white paints themselves. When I have time, I'll post some SC's in the "Spectrum Images" thread and give links to them in this thread.

If your open to suggestions, I'd recommend a touch of yellow and magenta. That should bring the green and blue down. I'd try to tackle it like the Bermuda Beige, mix up your base until it's right and then when it is dialed in you can get measurements and color match - if need be. Since you already have a bunch of metallic in the mix I'd leave the gold out.
I'm always open to suggestions! :bigsmile:
If I have to I'll take a shot at color-correcting C&S and then finding a custom-colored base like you did with Bermuda Beige for AAA, but I'm hoping I don't have to do that.

The gold metallic is replacing part of the silver metallic, it's not added to it. Yet... :bigsmile:

But what do I know! :neener:
Yeah, riigghhtt! :cunning::rolleyes::bigsmile:
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Harp,

Just wanted you to know I've been keeping an eye on this thread. It's a great piece of work! This is further confirmation that having (and using) the right equipment sure does make things more efficient. I'm sure there exist a few people in the world that really can look at a sample and figure out what to mix with it to bring it to neutral. But, there always seem to be some surprises along the way (at least for the 99.99% of us that can't perfectly mix by eye). I only know of one confirmed truly neutral mix that was done by eye (Ben's)...others claim it, but to my knowledge don't have supporting data (at lease I don't think he used a spectro...which to me is incredible given the outcome). That tells you how hard it is to do...and how it's easy to spin your wheels for years and never quite get there. I haven't even attempted it without a spectro, 'cause I know I'd be wheel-spinnin'!

Anyways, I admire the data-based approach you're taking! Just wanted to chime in and let you know... :T
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Anyways, I admire the data-based approach you're taking! Just wanted to chime in and let you know... :T
Thanks Jim, it's appreciated! :T
We are doomed to relive the Past....if we are luck.

I can add another older, and more original version to the slowly growing list of Neutral White / Silver mixes that include C&S.

RS-MaxxMudd dates to early 2005.

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
10 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
7 oz. UPW flat
3 oz. Folk Art (Plaid) Champaigne Metallic "Gold"
14 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
14 oz. distilled/tap water

The above is a VERY neutral mix, and one that outperformed the Stewart FireHawk completely across the Spectral Curve. It was also the first DIY Mix / Application that specifically improved Contrast (...hence ambient viewing potential..) while maintaining virtually pristine white levels. (...with some of the newer finds...what might it do today?)

Obviously, the addition of the Metallic Gold was to balance the small degree of Blue shift the metallic induced Gray hue introduced. The substitution of the Delta Ceramcoat paints for the Behr paints made for spectacular results that were lacking in the use of the coarser Behr Metallics. It was a Silver Metallic that was several shades lighter in hue, so by virtue of that, correcting any introduced push was all the more easier.

Tod (Tiddler) did extensive testing on the RS-MaxxMudd application, so in that respect, it was a "proven" example of a Neutral "Light Silver-White" screen.

All that remained to complete the trip into a truly dedicated Ambient Light Screen was the addition of specific Red-Green-Blue elements (w/Antique or Champagne Gold) to achieve as Light into Dark a surface as was needed.

Simple? No. Many chose to find fault with that when no other fault was found. But it really was only being compared to neutral Grays....and those applications didn't stand a chance in comparison. Benven's CGII & CGIII were Polar opposites to RS-MaxxMudd, but they of course were based primarily on "Increased gain".

But is RS-MaxxMudd doable by today's DIY standards? You betcha! It Rolled on and Sprayed like a dream.

Harp, your efforts to try to find a White that will mix with Silver without a Push might help simplify things a bit, but it is a hearkening back to simple basics that guided all of us long before. What we did not possess was the definitive "Base that does it all" That does seem to be getting awfully close though!

And yes, many of us did indeed develop the ability to "reckon" our way into neutrality, and we had to, because anything that had a undesirable "push' was simply....well, undesirable. It's not as if we were blind to the obvious miscues. No....we tried, and if something died, it was cast away ad another "idea" took it's place.

Funny thing was....back then, there were a few souls who took it upon themselves to make sure we all knew that they themselves had "been there...done that". But the real truth was we were revisiting their older applications and doing them netter, and from some of it actually coming up with original ideas as well.

To have a wealth of data and confirmed tests that show what is "neutral' and what is not is the real advantage many such as yourself now enjoy. The lessons learned since '02 on AVS pointed the direction toward the plateau we all exist on nowadays. While it can be honestly said that the effort to qualify and quantify potential ingredients is really just a reshuffling of the components of older known concepts, what's really important is the improvement such reshuffling can bring / is bringing.

In my reasoning, the real advance made recently is a completely color correcting "Base" to which Silver or Aluminum can be added. (BB)

Adjusting a "off Base" Base to compensate for varying amounts of introduced "Blue Push" needs no magical spell....the way has been know for sometime. Add some degree of hue between Red and Yellow. But it can be time consuming and frustrating if you don't nail it down quickly. Take it too far and you have a Red Push, and that is harder to deal with.

As I said above, C&S is noteworthy because it is both trying it's hand at reducing the Mix down to two components. You want to / have to add yellow, then try doing it as a original component of the Base. T'would be more original a find fer sure!

Good luck with it all, and I hope you can go on to create something really original to honor the C&S moniker. Everybody would benefit from such a simple creation.
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

MMan,

Hopefully that wasn't tested by prof55. I know that a lot of what he's done previously was in error. I believe everything was measured in C or something like that.
No...it was a "Todd" thing completely. Was it accurate? Well, no one seemed to dispute the findings at the time. I myself was wary of the whole thing, but eventually after examining the method and results, I was convinced because what was being stated corresponded with what I had been / was seeing.

I do hope that the "neutral" findings do lead Harp further down his path toward a perfect helping of C&S, because as it was originally presented...and much like BW, the simpler it remains, the more impressive any degree of performance increase becomes.

Somewhere out there awaits a real "Mongrel Mix" of a DIY Screen that has all the "cuteness' any of us could hope for, or would / should ever need. The DIY Kennel is getting quite crowded....a virtual "Puppy Mill" as it were.
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

No...it was a "Todd" thing completely. Was it accurate? Well, no one seemed to dispute the findings at the time. I myself was wary of the whole thing, but eventually after examining the method and results, I was convinced because what was being stated corresponded with what I had been / was seeing.
You said it not me! ;)

I do hope that the "neutral" findings do lead Harp further down his path toward a perfect helping of C&S, because as it was originally presented...and much like BW, the simpler it remains, the more impressive any degree of performance increase becomes.

Somewhere out there awaits a real "Mongrel Mix" of a DIY Screen that has all the "cuteness' any of us could hope for, or would / should ever need. The DIY Kennel is getting quite crowded....a virtual "Puppy Mill" as it were.
We still have several things up the old sleeves! ;) Both Bill and I have found some things that haven't been tried before - that we can recall anyways. And progress is being made on a 'white killer'. :T
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Does anyone know what N value RS-MaxxMudd is?

MMan, I never pretended that I was breaking new ground with Cream&Sugar (other than the catchy name ;)). C&S will always remain a SIMPLE mix; easy to find, mix and apply (at least in North America). If improvements can later be made by adding more components, a new mix will be introduced (perhaps called Cream&Sugar Ultra or somesuch), but I'm trying not to go down that road.

The trick is getting a neutral gray reflective screen and maintaining a true N9 (which is bloody close to most white paints as they come out of the can!). Most "white" paints I have measured have come in at around N9.5. This leaves precious little room to add a reflective paint, let alone correct a mix by adding red or yellow pigments, since doing so will darken the mix.

I have tried, with some success, to add nothing but metallic colors to the white base to color-correct it. I have also seemingly had some success with finding a custom-color base that corrects the blue push of the CSMS in a similar fashion as BB does with AAA. BB does not work with CSMS.

More on these matters when the samples have time to not only dry, but cure a bit. I learned that lesson some time ago when I reported, luckily via PM, that I had found a VERY neutral BW mix that hadn't been tried before only to test it the next day and find that it had changed color drastically (this mix was never reported to the public).
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

:gah: :thud:

I hate when this happens. :hissyfit: :duh:

I misspoke earlier. Upon further reflection (...ie: a PM from Todd) I discovered that Todd did a "Gain" measurement, and Gary was in fact the "Tester' who ascertained the neutrality factor.

Back to the question of whether or not Gary's test was accurate....that I cannot validate. But his approach seemed to be no less intensive and well intended than anyone else's, and a whole lot more involved than my own (...which is to say none at all but the "Eye"...)

So I apologize to all for posting what might...or might not be an inaccurate statement.

Harp,

It hard to point to the past as a reference without inferring that such overt similarities exist between applications and ideas, because after all, before us were many others who had the "Bug" and sat around dreaming of something better. Much of such dreaming was exactly that....dreaming. And some things were "almost" realities. Taking those "almosts", adding a dash of "dreaming", and a smidgin of "reality", can often lead to a revamping of older premises.

Ain't nothing wrong with that! :T

You go, Guy! As someone who re-did Goo as a one coat Application, (MMud 1:1:1) and gave it a different name, I'd never deny anyone similar leeway. Especially if their creation turned out to be superior. That alone merits consideration as to both a Name change and a no small amount of Credit being due the Creator.

Not for pride's sake mind you...but because being "better', it means than many will benefit from that effort.

'Tis what we all strive for, yes? No? :meal: Something worth consumption that does not give one indigestion. :sick:
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

I finally found some time this weekend to make this post, and my sample chits have cured so their measurements should be stable.

First, I want to state that the simplest way to make a good C&S mix is to use the Luminous White/CSMS mix from post #1, but the following two mixes will also give good results and may be a bit cheaper as you don't have to buy a $30 gallon of white paint.

C&S#2
The first of the two is a more complicated mix than I wanted to use for C&S, but I'll list it since it is the most neutral mix I have tested so far and the paints, except the white paint, should be in the same area at Michael's since they are the same brand. It goes against my stated "3 paints or less" rule for C&S, but... :huh:

The down-side to this mix is it is a bit darker than N9 coming in at N8.8 for my sample chit. The up-side is it is the most neutral C&S mix yet.

You will need 4 different paints to make C&S#2 (I guess that makes the original formula C&S#1).
Behr UPW #1050 [Behr #1850 is now recommended over #1050] (acording to my spectrophotometer, Valspar int. flat Ultra White enamel should work as well, perhaps better since it has a bit of sheen than UPW doesn't)
Craft Smart Metallic Silver
Craft Smart Metallic Gold
Craft Smart Metallic Bronze

The Gold and Bronze paints are needed to color-correct the mix. The neat thing is that ALL paints added to the white base are metallic so they all help make the mix reflective. The ratio of white paint to metallic paint is still 2:1.

The ratio of paint is:
UPW 8 parts
CSMS (silver) 2 parts
CSMG (gold) 1 part
CSMB (bronze) 1 part



C&S#3
This mix is based on a custom-color paint from True Value hardware stores called "Refinement".

I theorized what base paint color I wanted and went to EasyRGB.com and did a search; the closest match was a True Value TruColor paint. I wrote down the name and went to Lowe's to have it color-matched. The "paint guy" entered the name into the computer, but the computer told him to sell me a can of premixed Valspar white paint and then told him how much "off" it would be. The problem was that the color I was asking for was brighter than they could mix! We tried every paint brand Lowe's sells and the result was the same. I stopped at a True Value store on the way home and got a quart of the real stuff. I watched as they added the tints to the can of "pastel base"; they put in 1/96th of an ounce (the smallest their manual machines can measure) of two different colors and then put in 1/2 ounce of White! Even with all that added white pigment the mix was still way less bright than EasyRGB said it should be.

I was going to show a SC of "Refinement" alone, but I think that would be over-kill. :) One of the C&S mix based on it will be enough. First I'll show the page from EasyRGB for those that like to follow along. :)



Instead of the stated 246-241-233 my mix came in at 242-237-233, 4 points lower on the Red and Green values. It still gave a neutral result, but not as neutral as I would have liked. It is N9 though, in fact, almost a N9.1. If I was going to try this again I think I would go with the "Marshmallow" color and have them put a bit more white pigment in than their formula calls for, just in case. :)

See less See more
3
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

I'll take door number two please! KISS! :rofl:

That's an awful lot of metallic in that one mix! One would more than likely need sunglasses! :sn:

I don't think the first is more neutral at all by looking at the spectrum. The second one... brilliant! Plugging numbers the firs is closer by about 30 degrees but I think they both fall within the classification. Those 2 blue points could vary well be the store variance! ;)
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Ooops, I forgot to ask....

Have you done sheen tests on this yet?!?!?! :rofl: Maybe you could rig up a glossometer with a spatula and light bulb? :rofl2:


Seriously though Harp, if you think this may be ready for prime time I think we need to add it to our N9 list. :T
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

That's an awful lot of metallic in that one mix! One would more than likely need sunglasses! :sn:
Nope, the ratio of white to metallic is the same for all C&S mixes. :) The metallic gold and bronze are simply replacing 1/2 of the metallic silver, not being added to it.:nerd:

I don't think the first is more neutral at all by looking at the spectrum. The second one... brilliant! Plugging numbers the firs is closer by about 30 degrees but I think they both fall within the classification. Those 2 blue points could vary well be the store variance! ;)
I thought we were going by the L*a*b* values to determine neutrality. Am I doing it wrong? I know what you mean though about the spectral curve of C&S#2, I almost dubbed it "The Sine wave version". :joke:

Have you done sheen tests on this yet?!?!?!
Even thought you were asking in jest, I can see no sheen in the samples or the original test panel. When I make up future test panels I'll use the Valspar flat enamel because I think the smallest bit of sheen would be a good thing here. The paint guy at my local Lowe's seems very accommodating, I'll see if he can do a custom color for me from scratch and follow the formula for TV-Marshmallow.

Seriously though Harp, if you think this may be ready for prime time I think we need to add it to our N9 list.
The original C&S mix, LW/CSMS 2:1, is good to go. I still need to test the others under PJ light.

BTW, I made some sample chits using Delta Silver metallic just to see how they looked, and even in a 1:1 mix with LW (50% silver paint!) there were NO visible sparkles in the mix! :unbelievable:
See less See more
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

I thought we were going by the L*a*b* values to determine neutrality. Am I doing it wrong? I know what you mean though about the spectral curve of C&S#2, I almost dubbed it "The Sine wave version". :joke:
Lab values are one of many factors.

So is a -.6/.6 worse than a -.09/.9? Only by about 30 degrees Kelvin! ;)
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Ooops, I forgot to ask....

Have you done sheen tests on this yet?!?!?! :rofl: Maybe you could rig up a glossometer with a spatula and light bulb? :rofl2:


Seriously though Harp, if you think this may be ready for prime time I think we need to add it to our N9 list. :T
Do you want to borrow my eyelumenoscope? :rofl:
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

The original C&S mix, LW/CSMS 2:1, is good to go.
Awesome, Harp! :T
21 - 40 of 299 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top