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Cream&Sugar™ - an N9 reflective screen mix.

80620 Views 298 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  Harpmaker
11
4-27-11
This thread will be maintained for those that already have a C&S screen and wish to discuss it, and for historical reasons. These formulae will not work with the current Craft Smart silver paint sold by Michael's. Those wishing to built a new C&S™ screen should read the thread on the mix that replaces C&S™,
Cream&Sugar™ Ultra.

2-9-11
I must sadly report that Michael's has changed the formulation of their Craft Smart silver paint and it will no longer work well to make Cream&Sugar™ with. Expect a new C&S™ formula soon; until then continue using the old silver paint where available, see this post for details.
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Hi folks!

There seems to be a lot of interest in lighter reflective DIY screen paints. Even though I am really going in the opposite direction in search of a really good dark reflective screen paint, I decided to see if the reflective ingredient I was using could also be used for a very light screen.

The data and photos below should be enough to give you a good idea of what the mix I call "Cream&Sugar" will do. They aren't appealing "screenies", but they tell the story, at least most of it. ;)

I call this mix Cream&Sugar because it isn't white, but an off-white kind of like cream, and the sparkle in the mix is the sugar. As will be shown later, the mix is neutral, but just barely. :sweat:

Addendum: During the course of this thread I developed three different Cream&Sugar mixes and designated them C&S #1, C&S #2 and C&S #3. The formula given below is now called C&S #1.

All 3 mixes give essentially the same result, they just use different bases or paint colors to achieve the same result.

New addendum: I've added the formulae for C&S #2 and C&S #3 to this post so all mix ingredient info is in one place. To not leave holes in the flow of the thread I've left the original posts (along with their Spectral Reflectance Charts) in their original place in the thread.


C&S #1 (special note: As of October 2009 Sherwin-Williams is discontinuing Luminous White in many of there paints, if you are having trouble finding LW please try either C&S #2 or C&S #3)
[Another special note: as of December 2010 it seems that Luminous White is still available in some areas, but it might have to be special ordered from your store]
First, the ingredients; the "cream" is Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex and the "sugar" is Craft Smart Metallic Silver. These are mixed in a 2:1 ratio; 2 parts LW (Luminous White) to 1 part CSMS (Craft Smart Metallic Silver). The LW is available from Sherwin-Williams stores and the CSMS is available from Michael's arts & crafts stores; and only Michael's. In the post following this one I will describe how those not having access to the above ingredients can possibly substitute their own locally available materials.

The CSMS is a reflective ingredient that I am using to make an N7 mix that is showing great promise, but that's for another thread. :cunning: I should also add here that while I don't know what material is used to make the CSMS sparkle, it doesn't show a prismatic effect like all of the mica-based silver paints I have tried do. No rainbows from CSMS, even when used full strength. In this regard, it acts a lot like aluminum flakes, but it isn't near as "darkening" when added to a mix.

CSMS is also inexpensive; it's $1 for 4 ounces, $2 for 8 ounces and $4 for 16 ounces. That puts it at $8 per quart, which is cheaper than most house paints. :T

The mix is:
One quart Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat interior latex (this is a base color, not a tint). Not all SW paints are available in this base color.
One 16 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver

It is my hope that others will continue with adaptations to this original mix using different white paints and seeing how they work out. I strongly suggest not deviating from the use of the CSMS, unless absolutely necessary, since that could really throw off the color and reflectiveness of the mix.

The first photo is of a bottle of CSMS so you know what to look for at Michael's.


Now some microscope pics for those that care about such things. :bigsmile: As with most microscope shots, the color is not correct.
C&S at 60x


C&S at 200x (this pic displays an area about 1/32 inch wide)


A Spectral Chart of Cream&Sugar. Note that the fancy name isn't used in the chart. This mix has not been color-corrected to make it neutral, it is a simple two-part mix. Of special note is that the L* value in the top-left of the chart is 90.31, this equates to a Munsell Gray of N9; a pure white would be 100 or N10. The a* and b* values are under 1.0 (+ or - doesn't matter) so the mix is considered neutral.


Since C&S will be compared to a Kilz2 panel, I have included a Spectral Chart of my batch of Kliz2 as well. you can see that Kilz2 is brighter than C&S with a L* value of 92.29, the other values show my batch of Kilz2 wasn't neutral (but close enough for gov'ment work :)).


Now some panel photos.

The panels are, from left to right, Kilz2, C&S, Black Widow BB/AAA 4:1 and BW WM/HE558 5:1. Only the left two panels are of true interest to us in this thead. I used the BW panels to hide most of the wall :heehee: which can still be seen in place of a 5th panel. I placed an "X" there with masking tape, kindly ignore this "panel". :whistling:

Panels under room light with camera auto-white-balancing.


Panels under projector light using a 100% white image, head on.


Color Bars, head on.


White image at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at 45 degrees.


Color Bars at about 170 degrees. Sorry, I was in a hurry and forgot to take a white image at this angle. :doh:


While I don't have the photos to prove it, the C&S panel had slightly deeper blacks than the Kilz2 panel. Of course, they were much lighter than the BW panels, but we're not counting those this time. :) I didn't have the disk that contained the gray-scale photo I use, so I had to make do with what I had. :huh:

All-in-all, I think that C&S has similar whites to the Kilz2 panel while being a slightly darker panel. Also, the C&S was more neutral, which does make a difference if you can't adjust your PJ's R, G and B channels independently (I can't).
-----------------------------
Since people were not finding Sherwin-Williams Luminous White in quart sizes I decided to try to find C&S mixes that did to keep costs down. The following two mixes will also give good results and will be cheaper since you don't have to buy a $30+ gallon of white paint.

C&S#2
The first of the two is a more complicated mix than I wanted to use for C&S, but I'll list it since it is the most neutral mix I have tested so far and the paints, except the white paint, should be in the same area at Michael's since they are the same brand. It goes against my stated "3 paints or less" rule for C&S, but...

The down-side to this mix is it is a bit darker than N9 coming in at N8.8 for my sample chit. The up-side is it is the most neutral C&S mix yet.

You will need 4 different paints to make C&S#2.
One quart Behr UPW #1850 (acording to my spectro, Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat should work as well). Use the standard ultra-white base not a numbered base.
One 8 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Silver
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Gold
One 4 oz. bottle Craft Smart Metallic Bronze


The Gold and Bronze paints are needed to color-correct the mix. The neat thing is that ALL paints added to the white base are metallic so they all help make the mix reflective. The ratio of white paint to metallic paint is still 2:1 as in C&S #1.

The ratio of paint is:
UPW 8 parts
CSMS (silver) 2 parts
CSMG (gold) 1 part
CSMB (bronze) 1 part

Empty the paint into a large container and stir until blended. A squirrel-cage stirring attachment for a hand-drill is highly recommended as is washing the bottles of CSMS out with distilled water to get all the paint out - add the water to the mix.

I know this looks complicated, but it isn't. The key is that NO ingredient needs to be measured. It isn't hard to find the paints either since the white paint is simply a quart off the shelf that doesn't need to be tinted, and all 3 of the metallic paints should be close together at Michael's.


C&S#3
This mix is based on a custom-color paint from True Value hardware stores called "Refinement". The same ratio is used as in C&S #1, but the Luminous White is replaced with the "Refinement".

One quart True Value Trucolor "Refinement"
One 16 oz. bottle of Craft Smart Metallic Silver.


It turns out that some people don't have a True Value store near them (I'm not even sure they are in Canada at all) so I developed a matching paint that can be gotten at Lowe's. In time I will put another tint formula here for Behr #1850.
An alternate base paint to use to make C&S #3 is Valspar Ultra Premium Enamel flat tinted with the following formula:
Using Base 1
107 0.5
116 0.5
113 24


Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.

===
I finally had success matching the base for C&S #3 at Home Depot using Behr #1850.
The tint formula for the C&S #3 base at Home Depot is:
1 quart of Behr #1850 paint (ultra white base, which is what the 1850 means as well as the paint type)
Code:
[B]Tint   oz.   384th oz.
C        0       4
F        0       1[/B]
Add 16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver to a quart of this paint.
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Just a note to let any that are interested in the C&S mixes know that I have finished spraying test panels of the C&S#2 and C&S#3 mixes, and they are performing better than the sample chits! Both are extremely neutral, with the most improvement showing in the C&S#2 mix that had a very bumpy SRC in the sample.

I hope to get photos done later this week, but for now here are the Spectral Reflectance Curve charts for the full size test panels.

C&S#2


C&S#3
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Photos shmotos! The spectrum tells me everything I need to know and it looks great!

Nice job Don!

:T :T
Thanks mech!

The True Value "Refinement" worked out better than I had hoped! My next step is to take the tint formula from the can to Lowe's and have it made using Valspar int. latex enamel. At that point I think I'm done for awhile with the super light gray paints.

BTW, the main, and perhaps only, difference between the Valspar int. latex enamel "Base 1" and "Ultra White" is the "Base 1" has one half ounce less paint in the can to leave room for tint! I'll be using all that space since the formula for "Refinement" is 1/2 ounce White + 1/96 ounce Yellow Oxide + 1/96 ounce Exterior Red for a quart.

I just got done spraying a RS-MaxxMudd-LL test panel using the formula MMan gave earlier in this thread. I'll test it with the spectro tomorrow.

One thing you can't tell from spectral charts is how the paint performs under PJ light (angular gain). I'll probably stick with the white and color bar images I used before, plus one of a gray scale. Screenies look nice, but really don't tell you much. Reference images are boring, but tell you a lot. :bigsmile:
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Hi-

Looks good. Do you mind rolling your samples, too? I wonder how that effects the performance. (...and MMan, no, I am not getting a sprayer... ;) )
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Hi-

Looks good. Do you mind rolling your samples, too? I wonder how that effects the performance. (...and MMan, no, I am not getting a sprayer... ;) )
To tell you the truth, I'm just not a roller. However; I see absolutely no reason the C&S mixes shouldn't roll just fine. There simply aren't enough visible sparkles to cause rolling problems and they don't "leaf" like some aluminum does. I think if you can roll regular latex paint without leaving roller marks, you can roll C&S.

Of all the paints I've used as bases for C&S, the Valspar int. latex enamel has smoothed out the best when I made my sample chits. If I was rolling I would use that as the base. I will see about getting a quart of the stuff with the same tint formula as the True Value "Refinement" (yes, that is the name of the paint color :rolleyes:) and see if it works as well. I hope it does since it flattens out better than the TV paint and there are many more Lowe's stores than True Value stores. Also, if the tint formula works with the Valspar paint it should work with the Behr paints at Home Depot.
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Thanks mech!

The True Value "Refinement" worked out better than I had hoped! My next step is to take the tint formula from the can to Lowe's and have it made using Valspar int. latex enamel. At that point I think I'm done for awhile with the super light gray paints.

BTW, the main, and perhaps only, difference between the Valspar int. latex enamel "Base 1" and "Ultra White" is the "Base 1" has one half ounce less paint in the can to leave room for tint! I'll be using all that space since the formula for "Refinement" is 1/2 ounce White + 1/96 ounce Yellow Oxide + 1/96 ounce Exterior Red for a quart.
I actually knew that! ;) When I was looking for a match for AAA I had asked them what the differences were and they basically said that each has a bit less paint to accept more colorant.

I just got done spraying a RS-MaxxMudd-LL test panel using the formula MMan gave earlier in this thread. I'll test it with the spectro tomorrow.
Oh boy! :hide: Some magnifications would be nice as well. But I'm pretty certain I know how those will look! ;)

One thing you can't tell from spectral charts is how the paint performs under PJ light (angular gain). I'll probably stick with the white and color bar images I used before, plus one of a gray scale. Screenies look nice, but really don't tell you much. Reference images are boring, but tell you a lot. :bigsmile:
Does it have a pretty sharp cone? With regards to reference images, I agree. Screenies are not an issue with a neutral mix in my opinion. If you want to show the viewing cone just throw up an white image or an 80% gray.

Keep pluggin'! :T
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Also, if the tint formula works with the Valspar paint it should work with the Behr paints at Home Depot.
Has the big orange store expanded their library then? I didn't think they could match a TV color. I bet someone has a 'custom tint' all set up for you on this though! :rolleyes: ;)
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Oh boy! Some magnifications would be nice as well. But I'm pretty certain I know how those will look!
I haven't done them yet, but I would expect it will look very similar to Silver Fire.

I'll say this though, if this version of RS-MaxxMudd doesn't hot-spot (and I'm NOT saying it does), we have a lot more room to add sheen to our mixes than I thought. Also, the version I made up is from a MMan post at AVS that post-dates his post in this thread and not the formula in this thread as I stated before. More about this after I test the panel.

Does it have a pretty sharp cone? With regards to reference images, I agree. Screenies are not an issue with a neutral mix in my opinion. If you want to show the viewing cone just throw up an white image or an 80% gray
Haven't seen it under PJ light yet. Will do so tonight or tomorrow.

Has the big orange store expanded their library then? I didn't think they could match a TV color.
I didn't try to match "Refinement" at HD, I don't get to that store very often; I pass a Lowe's at least once a week.

Lowe's CAN'T match Trucolor "Refinement" via their computer database (and I didn't try to match a sample). I told about that little adventure in a previous post. I just verified the tint colors used in the "Refinement" formula and gave that info to the paint dept. at Lowe's. The guy that knows what he is doing wasn't there today, and the woman there today didn't have a clue how to manually match a tint formula. Luckily, there was another guy there that knew one of their red tints was also called "Exterior Red" and he made up the quart. I have yet to test it, but if it is a close match to the TV "Refinement", I'll have the Lowe's numerical formula, plus the TV formula; so I'm assuming HD could built a quart from one of those. I dislike having True Value paint as a base since they are not nationwide (not sure about that though); but they are not as big as Lowe's and Home Depot combined. ;) Also, TV doesn't have a latex enamel.

I bet someone has a 'custom tint' all set up for you on this though!
Yeah, ME! No outside help. :bigsmile:
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

I'm sure he's thinking of 'refinements'! :rofl:

He doesn't have much else to do...:whistling:

:T
You guys have to learn to let stuff go...:bigsmile:
All this :boxer::paddle::boxer: might give ya liver damage!:sick: :rofl2:
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

I took some photos of the test panels of the three C&S mixes plus a panel of RS-MaxxMudd-LL.

The panels are, from Left to Right:
1. Kilz2
2. RS-MaxxMudd-LL
3. C&S #1
4. C&S #2
5. C&S #3

I'll give a C&S formula summery at the end of the post.

I need to discuss RS-MaxxMudd-LL a bit. The formula I used was one MissippiMan posted on another forum after he posted a similar one in this thread. I used the newer version from his last post. It is as follows:

RS-MaxxMudd-LL (low lumen)
16 oz Delta pearl
8 oz Delta silver metallic
10 oz UPW #1050
2 oz Folk Art Champagne Gold metallic
14 oz Minwax Polycrylic Polyurethane Satin finish
14 oz distilled water

I divided all ingredients by 8 to make a smaller batch. As is my normal routine, everything was measured using medical syringes.

I made a sample chit of the mix before I added the gold to it and then one after adding the gold. It's ironic that while the gold was added to neutralize the blue push of the silver, it actually made the mix less neutral. There is enough "warmth" in the Pearl and UPW to more than balance the silver.

RS-MaxMudd=LL
L*a*b* 87.31, -0.81, 2.45
RGB 219, 219, 214

RS-MaxMudd-LL without the gold
L*a*b* 87.58, -0.73, 1.22
RGB 219, 220, 217

I made the panel using the "real" RS-MaxxMudd-LL formula with the gold.

One more thing needs to be said about this mix. With my PJ and the way it is setup (a little higer than table height) it does hot-spot. This will be visible in the photos.

I would have liked to make a panel of Tony's mix, but I just can't force myself to buy a quart of Behr metallic silver for $20 when I have no other use for it.

The first photo was taken with flash on the auto setting


The first panel is the lightest (Kilz2) and the second is the darkest (RS-MM-LL). This is what the spectro results show as well. The RS-MM-LL panel doesn't hot-spot under camera flash.

Panels at 90 degrees under white PJ light


The RS-MM-LL panel is clearly brighter at the bottom than the top. At the bottom it is even brighter than the Kilz2 panel. The fourth panel (C&S #2) appears to be slightly brighter than the lighter third panel (C&S #1). I believe this is because of the very small, but visible, amount of sheen added by using the Valspar latex enamel instead of just the regular Valspar latex in the C&S #2 mix.

Color bars at 90 degrees


Again, hot-spotting visible in the second panel. The fourth panel still appears to be just a tad brighter than the third panel. These differences are very subtle.

Gray bars at 90 degrees


This shot primarily shows the video clipping of my PJ (this is a JPG image). :bigsmile: I might have been able to play with the brightness and contrast settings to get a slightly better image, but it's questionable, and not worth the time to bring out a few more shades of gray in the image.

White image at 45 degrees


The second panel has dropped in brightness drastically because of it's viewing cone. The fourth panel has also dropped slightly in brightness, but the change isn't as radical; it still compares nicely to the Kilz2 panel.

Color bars at 45 degrees


I don't know if my eyes are playing tricks on me or if the third panel is really a smidgen brighter than the Kilz2 at this angle. :scratch:

Gray bars at 45 degrees


White image at ~170 degrees


That third panel (C&S #1) still looks the brightest to me.

Color bars at ~170 degrees


Gray bars at ~170 degrees


It's getting hard to distinguish between the fourth and fifth panels at this angle, which shows the slight viewing cone of the fourth panel. Would anyone really watch a movie at this angle? I don't think so. :coocoo:

Summation
The best Cream&Sugar mix seems to be the original C&S #1. The main reason to use the other C&S mixes would be to save money by not having to buy a full gallon of the base paint.

Currently, C&S #1 and C&S #3 must be made with specific base paints. C&S #2 can be made with Behr UPW and Lowe's Valspar Ultra White paints, also it can be made with either the plain flat latex or flat latex enamels in those brands. I suspect most bright white interior house paints would work as well.

I can't recommend RS-MaxxMudd-LL for what I hope are obvious reasons. I do think that with a little tweaking to fix hot-spotting (and leaving out the gold ;)) this mix could be a contender.

Cream&Sugar formulae

C&S #1
2 parts Sherwin-Williams Luminous White flat latex (Sherwin-Williams stores)
1 part Craft Smart Metallic Silver (Michael's craft stores)

C&S #2
8 parts bright white interior flat latex house paint. Behr UPW and Lowe's Valspar Ultra White have been tested.
2 parts Craft Smart Metallic Silver
1 part Craft Smart Metallic Gold
1 part Craft Smart Metallic Bronze

I know this seems like a complicated formula, but it really is just a quart of white paint plus one 8 oz bottle of silver, a 4 oz bottle of gold and a 4 oz bottle of bronze.

C&S #3
2 parts True Value Trucolor "Refinement" int. flat latex (True Value hardware stores)
1 part Craft Smart Metallic Silver
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Don,

:clap:

Nice job! It turned out as I suspected it would. I promise I'm gonna get this up in the stickies today! :T

The RS mix hot spots and appears to have an awful viewing cone. We've always said it was because of the cheap mica but I think you've proven us wrong with C&S!
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Very interesting and very comprehensive Harp..:T

I'm very surprised that the RS mix hotspots like that..
Obviously the mix produces some reasonable gain and hence the limited viewing cone..

It looks like you hit the right mix first off, with C&S 1..Which makes it a very simple and effective DIY screen paint..::T:

Well done..:clap:
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

:thankyou:, one and all. :cowboy:

After pondering a bit, I think the reason C&S #1 works the best is because it has the most visible sparkles in it.

My sample chit of the Valspar enamel tinted to match TV "Refinement" has dried enough so I can take a valid spectro reading. The spectral curve isn't exactly the same as "Refinement", but it is close enough for further testing. In fact, very early tests using it as a base for C&S #3 are good enough that a full test panel will be done. :T
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

My monitor is old... but to me it looks like Kilz is at a similar grey-level as the C&S mixes. What am I missing? I thought C&S was considered N9 and Kilz was whiter.

How are the black levels by your eyes? Again my monitor is too old for me to tell.

Thanks,
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

My monitor is old... but to me it looks like Kilz is at a similar grey-level as the C&S mixes. What am I missing? I thought C&S was considered N9 and Kilz was whiter.
Kilz2 is not the whitest white, but it is a paint that most DIY screen painters have, and is usually what a screen is primed with.

Some "brightness" numbers for white paint (at least my cans of them):
Kilz2 92.29
Ace Hardware Ultra White flat latex 96.47
Sherwin-Williams Luminous White 96.81
Behr UPW #1050 flat latex 97.19
Valspar int. flat Ultra White enamel 97.32

These are the L* values from the L*a*b* measurements. 100 would be 100% white and 0 100% black. In the real world those top and bottom values are never achieved. The L* value is also very close to what the Munsell N value for the color would be, so close as to be interchangeable for most purposes.

The same value from the C&S mixes are:
C&S #1 90.31
C&S #2 88.38
C&S #3 89.04

It's interesting that I didn't notice this before, but C&S #3 should be visibly brighter than C&S #2, but yet the opposite is shown under PJ light. I attribute this to the sheen from the enamel used to make C&S #2 and/or perhaps the base paint of C&S #3 was muting the reflective qualities of the metallic silver more.

As for laminates recommended for white screens:
Wilsonart Designer White 93.3
Parkland Plastics Polywall 93.4

I don't know what your Do-Able is.

To answer your question :bigsmile:, while Kilz2 is brighter than the C&S mixes, it's not a lot brighter. The C&S mixes are also quite a bit more neutral than Kilz2.

My general understanding of screens is that the brighter white the screen is, the more any ambient light, or even PJ light reflected back onto the screen from ceiling and walls, causes problems.

How are the black levels by your eyes? Again my monitor is too old for me to tell.

Thanks,
Funny you should ask. :bigsmile: I was watching some movies on the composite white screen I used for my post and played scenes from a number of different movies. My general thought was "Wow, this white screen stuff isn't so bad.", but then I played a movie I've taken screenies of before ("The Fifth Element") and I didn't watch it long before I was saying to myself "Where the **** did the colors go?". I tried adjusting the PJ and nothing I could do made the picture look like I remembered it under a gray screen.

I would say that the contrast level (range between white and black) was about the same for the white screens. I didn't find myself going "Where are the blacks?", but instead, the whole image lacked "snap" for want of a better word.

I still consider myself to be new at this PJ stuff, so I hesitate to make a recommendation of screen type for others, but as for me; I'm a gray screen man! :cowboy:

BTW, I'm going to be doing another thread called "Why "screenies" don't matter" soon using photos I took from the above white screen.
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Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Thanks for the reply. By being a grey-screen man are you saying you are going darker than your C&S mix?
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

Thanks for the reply. By being a grey-screen man are you saying you are going darker than your C&S mix?
WAY darker!:bigsmile:

C&S was an off-shoot from my main area of research, which is making a darker screen than even Black Widow was giving me. I think the C&S mixes are pretty good and easy light-screen solutions, especially C&S #1, but I developed them for use by others. As soon as I make this last panel using the Valspar "Refinement" clone I'll publish the data at Lumen Labs where light-colored screens are almost a must because of their home-made PJ's lack of lumens.

I have an odd situation in that I want to make my screen smaller not bigger. My PJ has lots of lumens and I have it turned down almost as low as it can go with my current 75" screen and I want to go down to a 60 incher soon (long story). My PJ has no threads for a ND filter so I have to "adjust" my brightness by going to a darker screen than most people would want.
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

BTW, I'm going to be doing another thread called "Why "screenies" don't matter" soon using photos I took from the above white screen.
Oooooooooo! I'm really looking forward to this!! Screenshots are nice and everything, but the hard data is the real thing of importance.

C&S was an off-shoot from my main area of research, which is making a darker screen than even Black Widow was giving me. I think the C&S mixes are pretty good and easy light-screen solutions, especially C&S #1, but I developed them for use by others. As soon as I make this last panel using the Valspar "Refinement" clone I'll publish the data at Lumen Labs where light-colored screens are almost a must because of their home-made PJ's lack of lumens.
From what little I gathered there before tiddler ran us all off, those guys have as many lumens as I have - 450 or so video optimized. You do realize you may be opening up a can of worms there as well right? Honestly Don, if I were you, I'd just leave it here. They'll find it if they really want to. If you do head over there though, bump the chat thread! :bigsmile: :T
Re: Cream&Sugar - an N9 reflective screen mix.

BTW, I'm going to be doing another thread called "Why "screenies" don't matter" soon using photos I took from the above white screen.
Oooooooooo! I'm really looking forward to this!! Screenshots are nice and everything, but the hard data is the real thing of importance.
I agree and disagree. ;)

I think they both go hand in hand. The data shows why it works and although screenies really are mainly eye candy, they can show how well it works. Kinda like reading all the specs and technical details of a high performance car but you really don't appreciate all those specs and R&D until you take it for a drive.

Empirical alone can be highly subjective though, but when you combine the two it's a pretty powerful statement. We can discuss and debate this more in your new thread. Should be a fun and interesting topic! :)
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