Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

41 - 60 of 178 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Harp, Phil;

I have been mulling over my HT project since we last conversed on 6-5-2011. After further research and consideration, I have decided that I need to change my screen location from the back of my fire place with an 8' width limitation, to another wall in my multipurpose room due to seating layout issues, projector positioning considerations and screen size limitations. I am now looking at a CIH 122" diagonal cinema scope screen (9.4'wide)for the largest majority of anticipated use which will still give me an 89" x 48 " 16:9 screen.

Since my project is 200 miles from my primary home and I am getting ready for carpet installation, I have decided it will be worth a trip there to confirm the the best layout, make any needed wiring modifications, establish projector location and also conduct a test of the rooms lighting conditions to help determine the best screen option.

I am interested in your take on the expected performance comparison between the C&S Ultra and the Wilson Art laminate in terms of the important metrics including viewing cone and durability (grandchildren). I can work with the greys if needed for the lighting conditions in the room. My room is a little over 20' wide and 19' deep with front row seating at 10' (four recliners) and second row (four recliners on a riser) at 14'. There will be other secondary seating outboard of these seats (+ kids on the floor). On the screen wall, the left side wall is about 5' away from the screen and there is essentially no right side wall. The ceiling is vaulted and slopes up and away at 3/12 pitch from the 7' high screen wall (screen will be about 4" from ceiling to 2'8" off the floor). Ceiling is light tan, walls are medium tan, carpet is medium biege. One idea for expected reflected light from the ceiling would be to either paint the ceiling darker in a semi circle in front of the screen or come out about 3-4' feet from the screen and put a black ceiling curtain hanging down from the sloped ceiling, 12' wide or so, with the bottom edge just above the screen (paint the area behind this curtain dark), when viewed from the back row of seats on the riser.

Phil, I searched a little and could not find the info on the design problem with AE line of projectors for mounting upside down. Is there confirmation that this problem is still present in the 4000? Trying to decide between 1. table mounting the projector between back row seats with lens at a 13' throw, 2. mounting the projector on the entertainment center base cabinet counter top (back wall), right side up at about 3' off the floor, 17.5' throw, or 3. mounting the projector upside down on the entertainment center upper cabinet at 6' 8"' high, 17. 5 ' throw.

The issue with option #2 is there is a walking aisle between the back row of seating and the entertainment center that leads to a bathroom and three bedrooms. I understand that option 3 might be better for gaming and my seating would not need to be split, however, I still plan to place a removable flat screen display on my center stage speaker floor cabinet in front of the PJ screen for daytime viewing and gaming (this room is very bright during the day because of adjacent great room and large net window area) so option 1 is still viable and may be preferable to 3, especially if I could run the projector in economy mode to extend lamp life.

I am zeroing in on my redesign of the room and looking for suggestions, especially on paint versus laminate. I am a home builder and cabinet maker, so none of this is particularly difficult. With either paint or laminate, I would likely use 1/2' or 5/8" MDF, 5' x 10" sheet, cut oversize to accommodate the black velvet screen frame. I would back the MDF with a secondary frame 3/4" by 3 1/2", for mounting strength and to help keep the screen flat.

Is the C&S Ultra significantly more impressive in terms of overall performance? Will it have a wider viewing cone? The durability of laminate is appealing. My current home made portable screen with a cover, has a few marks,:ponder: dings and hand prints. We have cleaned some of the marks to some degree.

I just want to avoid having to do something twice if possible.

Thanks much.

Dave
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
I am interested in your take on the expected performance comparison between the C&S Ultra and the Wilson Art laminate in terms of the important metrics including viewing cone and durability (grandchildren). I can work with the greys if needed for the lighting conditions in the room. My room is a little over 20' wide and 19' deep with front row seating at 10' (four recliners) and second row (four recliners on a riser) at 14'. There will be other secondary seating outboard of these seats (+ kids on the floor).
DW laminate (gain of about 1.3 IIRC) will provide a slightly brighter image than a C&S™ Ultra screen (gain about 1.0), but it will also have a narrower viewing angle than C&S™ Ultra. Using C&S™ Ultra will give you a wider viewing angle (which it sounds like you would want) and a bit of help dealing with small amounts of ambient light since it is technically really a very light gray.

While we have not done any destructive testing of screens (although that would be an interesting project) I would expect C&S™ Ultra to be fairly tough since it is a combo of flat enamel and artist acrylic paints. Laminate is pretty tough as well, but if it is ever damaged it's almost impossible to repair for the average DIY'er. The main problem, as I understand it, with laminate is that it can scratch during cleaning affecting the level of gloss from one area of the screen to the next, and that it is quite brittle. Mech and Wbassett have both had laminate screens so perhaps they might have something to add here, but it might be a while before you hear from them since Mech is on vacation and Wbassett is just plain busy.

On the screen wall, the left side wall is about 5' away from the screen and there is essentially no right side wall. The ceiling is vaulted and slopes up and away at 3/12 pitch from the 7' high screen wall (screen will be about 4" from ceiling to 2'8" off the floor). Ceiling is light tan, walls are medium tan, carpet is medium biege. One idea for expected reflected light from the ceiling would be to either paint the ceiling darker in a semi circle in front of the screen or come out about 3-4' feet from the screen and put a black ceiling curtain hanging down from the sloped ceiling, 12' wide or so, with the bottom edge just above the screen (paint the area behind this curtain dark), when viewed from the back row of seats on the riser.
Yeah, only having 4" between the top of the screen and the light colored ceiling is going to be a problem. Of the two solutions you are considering I think the black curtain would work best.


Phil, I searched a little and could not find the info on the design problem with AE line of projectors for mounting upside down. Is there confirmation that this problem is still present in the 4000? Trying to decide between 1. table mounting the projector between back row seats with lens at a 13' throw, 2. mounting the projector on the entertainment center base cabinet counter top (back wall), right side up at about 3' off the floor, 17.5' throw, or 3. mounting the projector upside down on the entertainment center upper cabinet at 6' 8"' high, 17. 5 ' throw.
I would recommend keeping the PJ as close to the screen as possible to get as bright an image as possible.

I am zeroing in on my redesign of the room and looking for suggestions, especially on paint versus laminate. I am a home builder and cabinet maker, so none of this is particularly difficult. With either paint or laminate, I would likely use 1/2' or 5/8" MDF, 5' x 10" sheet, cut oversize to accommodate the black velvet screen frame. I would back the MDF with a secondary frame 3/4" by 3 1/2", for mounting strength and to help keep the screen flat.
I would also recommend priming the rear surface and edges of the MDF to help seal it against moisture transfer and warping.

Is the C&S Ultra significantly more impressive in terms of overall performance? Will it have a wider viewing cone? The durability of laminate is appealing.
Thanks much.
Screen performance, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder; it also depends on what screen aspect we are talking about. We can tell you how much light a screen will reflect to your eyes, what gain it has (if we've measured it), and give you more than a wild guess at how much ambient light it will absorb; but ultimately it comes down to viewer preference. DW makes a dandy screen, but it is a white screen and any ambient light will hurt image contrast and color depth. C&S™ Ultra is a paint mix and thus it can be darkened if necessary by adding some N6 or N5 paint so it can be customized to your needs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Screen performance, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder; it also depends on what screen aspect we are talking about. We can tell you how much light a screen will reflect to your eyes, what gain it has (if we've measured it), and give you more than a wild guess at how much ambient light it will absorb; but ultimately it comes down to viewer preference. DW makes a dandy screen, but it is a white screen and any ambient light will hurt image contrast and color depth. C&S™ Ultra is a paint mix and thus it can be darkened if necessary by adding some N6 or N5 paint so it can be customized to your needs.
Harp,

Are there formulas for how much N5 or N6 to add to get other N shades with C&S Ultra?

Also, is the silver in C&S Ultra finer than the AAA Fine?

Thanks,

JSS
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Harp,

Are there formulas for how much N5 or N6 to add to get other N shades with C&S Ultra?
For adding N6 gray paint to darken C&S™ Ultra you could use the amounts given in the Elektra™ thread. The N6 gray was needed for making Elektra™ because the old Craft Smart metallic Silver had relatively large reflective flakes in it and as the mix got darker they needed to be diluted. This is not the case with the Liquitex BASICS Silver and I will be working on changing the "shade adjuster" paint from N6 to N5 to make the mix comparable to a new line of mixes coming that can be made in just about any country in the world. Liquitex has a N5 paint in the BASICS line. ;)

Also, is the silver in C&S Ultra finer than the AAA Fine?
While I haven't compared them under a microscope yet, I believe the answer is yes. The mica flakes in Liq. BASICS Silver are way less effective at reflecting light than the metallic aluminum flakes in AAA-F, and I do believe the AAA-F flakes are a bit larger as well, but not near as large as the aluminum coated polymer flakes in the old Craft Smart Metallic Silver. This is why more LBS must be used to make C&S™ Ultra (a 50/50 mix of base and silver).

Thanks,

JSS
Glad to be of assistance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Harp,

Thanks, keep us updated!!! Once you guys get a reliable way to do C&S Ultra down to N7.5 or so, I may change my screen to it.....right now I am plain N7 OTS (Glidden Veil).

The contributions to DIYers in this section of the forum are quite underrated, you guys have done very impressive work!

JSS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thank you Harpmaster for taking the time to post such mixes as C&S Ultra.

I've had an Optima hd65 and a greywolf screen that came with it for several years. I never liked the narrow viewing cone that came with the greywolf II retro-reflective high gain screen and always wanted to try a diy painted screen when the opportunity presented itself. I moved recently to a new house and decided from my research and the fact that I live in Canada to try your latest C&S Ultra mix.
I wanted to make it a bit darker and followed the Elektra N6 tint idea.

So far I have done one coat today, and wanted to make sure I'm on the right track.

I've bought:
-16 oz of Liquitex Basic Silver
-16 oz of Bahr PP100 (Ultra Pure White Flat Premium Plus, the HD rep said it has replaced 1850?) tinted to ppg bermuda biege
-8 oz of Bahr ul204 tinted to N6

I've split all the ingredients above in half and done the first coat.
Things that concern me are the colour was a bit more biege/red push than grey. the behr pp100 had this colour fairly strongly with the bermuda beige tint. I worry that the pp100 tinted to bermuda biege wasn't the right thing to do?
I know the Valspar or vupe is to be tinted bb 427-w, so I assumed the behr upw was to be tinted to bermuda biege as well.
Other concerns were that the formula hd had to tint to bb from pp100 differed from the old 1850 to bb tint listed on the forums.

I'll post some pics of the paints/formulas used for the mix and some of the 1st coat.
Please let me know if it looks like i'm on the right track, or if I should get some vupe and tint it at Lowes. My wife is taking a trip to the USA tomorrow and they have a Lowe's on their way.

I was shooting to get an N8.4-N8.7 with my mix.
I used 8 fl oz of pp100 tinted + 8 fl of of liquitex basics silver + 4oz of distilled water + 1.67 (50ml) of ul204 N6


I've attached some pics and referenced behr silver screen, I believe is N8.3 as a reference.
The first photo was shot with auto white balance, the rest were with flash. All painted substrates on the left are my first coat thus far.
autowbDSC05442.JPG

DSC05437.JPG

DSC05438.JPG

DSC05440.JPG

flashDSC05441.JPG

flashmacroDSC05444.JPG

flashWideScreenDSC05445.JPG

Any Help or encouragement would be appreciated

Thank you
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Thank you Harpmaster for taking the time to post such mixes as C&S Ultra.
No problem. We try to create screen mixes and offer advice so that people who want to make their own screens don't lose a thing compared to commercial screens.

I've had an Optima hd65 and a greywolf screen that came with it for several years. I never liked the narrow viewing cone that came with the greywolf II retro-reflective high gain screen and always wanted to try a diy painted screen when the opportunity presented itself. I moved recently to a new house and decided from my research and the fact that I live in Canada to try your latest C&S Ultra mix.
I wanted to make it a bit darker and followed the Elektra N6 tint idea.
Darkening C&S™ Ultra with N6 gray paint to get a darker screen will work fine.

So far I have done one coat today, and wanted to make sure I'm on the right track.

I've bought:
-16 oz of Liquitex Basic Silver
-16 oz of Bahr PP100 (Ultra Pure White Flat Premium Plus, the HD rep said it has replaced 1850?) tinted to ppg bermuda biege ----- NO
-8 oz of Bahr ul204 tinted to N6

I've split all the ingredients above in half and done the first coat.
Things that concern me are the colour was a bit more biege/red push than grey. the behr pp100 had this colour fairly strongly with the bermuda beige tint. I worry that the pp100 tinted to bermuda biege wasn't the right thing to do?
I know the Valspar or vupe is to be tinted bb 427-w, so I assumed the behr upw was to be tinted to bermuda biege as well.
Other concerns were that the formula hd had to tint to bb from pp100 differed from the old 1850 to bb tint listed on the forums.
You are using the WRONG base for making C&S™ Ultra. The Bermuda Beige base is for making our Black Widow™ mix and is causing your C&S™ Ultra attempt to be way to red-yellow. If you can't get the right base for C&S™ Ultra it still makes a near-neutral mix (more neutral than many commercial screens) if you just use untinted white paint as the base.

I'll have to double check this info to be 100% sure, but I believe the C&S™ Ultra base tint formula to use with Behr paint is V - 5/384 oz., although from your photo of the Behr jar it seems that they have changed the names of their tints. The base color you want for making C&S™ Ultra using Behr paint is 5/384 oz. of Magenta tint added to a QUART of #1850 (or equivalent). This is such a small about of tint that they can't accurately make it in the 8 oz. sample jar.

I'll post some pics of the paints/formulas used for the mix and some of the 1st coat.
Please let me know if it looks like i'm on the right track, or if I should get some vupe and tint it at Lowes. My wife is taking a trip to the USA tomorrow and they have a Lowe's on their way.
You can try getting the base made in the Behr paint, but to be absolutely sure it might be a good idea to get the paint at Lowe's.

I was shooting to get an N8.4-N8.7 with my mix.
I used 8 fl oz of pp100 tinted + 8 fl of of liquitex basics silver + 4oz of distilled water + 1.67 (50ml) of ul204 N6

I've attached some pics and referenced behr silver screen, I believe is N8.3 as a reference.
Behr 'Silver Screen' is a N8 neutral gray.

Any Help or encouragement would be appreciated

Thank you
I think you're doing great, but you need to get the correct color base to get rid of that red push. :T
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Wow, thank you for the reply.
I had a feeling that it was not right and the red push was my bad :)
Initially, I thought the red will mix away with the silver, but after a while I knew it had to be wrong.

So an 8 oz sample is just too small to put the 5/384 magenta reliably and a quart would be the minimum you'd recommend? I think i can get the 5/384 in the behr mixed to the pp100 UPW, with their machine, I'll give it a shot as the wife is already back from the US today so Lowes is out for this week as an option.

I think going with worse case an 8 oz behr sample will go much better than my current bad base and a quart is likely perfect.


Any idea what N tint would be best to handle some ambient light?
The HD65 has about 1200 lumens on bright mode and 600 in best calibrated mode, so assuming 600 lumens and my screen size is aprox 107" or 35 sq ft, would bring a 17 FL. if I ramp to bright or 1000 lumens i'd have 28 FL.
Would you recommend a tint of N8 or 8.5 and is there any formula I can use to get there. I was just ballparking the Elektra tints from the original C&S thread, but they were based on the 48oz c&s mix, not the 40 oz c&s mix (assuming water added counts).

Thank you again!
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Wow, thank you for the reply.
I had a feeling that it was not right and the red push was my bad :)
Initially, I thought the red will mix away with the silver, but after a while I knew it had to be wrong.

So an 8 oz sample is just too small to put the 5/384 magenta reliably and a quart would be the minimum you'd recommend? I think i can get the 5/384 in the behr mixed to the pp100 UPW, with their machine, I'll give it a shot as the wife is already back from the US today so Lowes is out for this week as an option.

I think going with worse case an 8 oz behr sample will go much better than my current bad base and a quart is likely perfect.
If you want to use an 8 oz. sample to make C&S™ Ultra you could have your Home Depot store add 1/384 oz. of Magenta tint to a jar of the #1850 equivalent paint. My guess is that they would look at you funny, but it would be better than having no Magenta tint at all. That sample jar would equate to a quart with 4/384 oz. of tint in it.

Any idea what N tint would be best to handle some ambient light?
The HD65 has about 1200 lumens on bright mode and 600 in best calibrated mode, so assuming 600 lumens and my screen size is aprox 107" or 35 sq ft, would bring a 17 FL. if I ramp to bright or 1000 lumens i'd have 28 FL.
Would you recommend a tint of N8 or 8.5 and is there any formula I can use to get there. I was just ballparking the Elektra tints from the original C&S thread, but they were based on the 48oz c&s mix, not the 40 oz c&s mix (assuming water added counts).

Thank you again!
For your HT I personally would go with a N8, but you might like a brighter image; if that's the case then go with the N8.5.

There is currently no real formula for determining the N value that a screen should be, but I guess one could be designed. The problem is that to really get that technical about it you should actually measure the amount of ambient light during viewing and most people don't want to go that far.

Basically, the brighter your PJ the darker gray can be used. If you have enough lumens to counteract the light absorption of the gray screen to get around 16 fL of image brightness you are good to go. Some folks (like Mech and I) find 12 fL to be plenty bright, but this is very subjective.

I haven't determined the exact proportions of N6 gray paint to add to C&S™ Ultra to get exact N8.5 and N8 levels, but the idea that adding a neutral color paint to a neutral color paint = a neutral color paint means that you could simply experiment mixing N6 and C&S™ Ultra until you get to a gray shade you like.

Since the Liquitex BASICS Silver paint that is used in making C&S™ Ultra isn't as sparkly as the discontinued silver paint used in the original C&S™ mixes it may be possible to simply use a darker base paint rather than adding the N6 to the mix. The original idea behind the N6 addition was to darken the mix AND to dilute it to prevent visible sparkles which tended to show up as the mix darkened. I don't think that will be a problem when using the BASICS Silver. What all this means is that I have more mixing and testing to do! :nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I'm glad I stumbled across this thread before I found the one I was looking for. Just tried to repaint my screen with original C&S that had been sitting in the can for a year or two. Shook the dickens out of it, then stirred it for about 10 minutes with a drill... Looked kind of pink, but I was already committed since I had just patched and primed the gouges my kids made in my nice smooth screen. Went on... uh... kinda pink. Maybe it dries greyer? Nope. pink. I can see the grey of the C&S at the unfinished edge, and this is definitely pink.

I guess the lesson is 'stir/shake even more', or that the silver just settles out and can't be stirred back in (by me at least). Fine, then. I guess I get a pink screen until the liquitex silver comes in and I can make it the 80 miles to Lowes!

Actually, I think straight Kilz may be better than the pink...

I'm sure glad harpmaker likes doing the R&D on this stuff!

--Dan
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
I don't know why your original C&S™ turned pink in the can... are you sure there was CSMS in it? At any rate, this is why we are not using craft quality paints in our screen mixes anymore, they are too likely to change without notice.

What latex paint brands are available to you locally? I might be able to find another base you can use besides Valspar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
There's a Home Despot 30 miles away (where we usually shop); I think a Behr product was mentioned. Seems like luck with getting the mix right is ... uh.. spotty at that establishment, so I was considering just going to Lowes (got to go down there anyway some time soon).
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
There's a Home Despot 30 miles away (where we usually shop); I think a Behr product was mentioned. Seems like luck with getting the mix right is ... uh.. spotty at that establishment, so I was considering just going to Lowes (got to go down there anyway some time soon).
It's kind of hard to mess the base for C&S™ Ultra up, but I guess it's possible. If you want to try a Behr base get a quart of Behr #1850 (or equivalent) and have them add 5/384 oz. of Magenta tint to the can and shake. Otherwise get the Valspar at Lowe's. BTW, Lowe's just renamed the Valspar Ultra Premium latex Enamel to Valspar Ultra Premium Super Flat Finish. It still has the same item number, 213484.
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Still the same 8 ounces of water per 16 oz base / 16 oz silver, or is does the Behr need less dilution?
I would stick with the 8 oz. of added water even with the Behr paint. What needs dilution isn't the tinted base paint, but rather the Liquitex BASICS Silver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Any idea what a flat clear urethane over c&s would do? I'm thinking of ways to reduce the need to repaint for spills, dents and scratches... I guess alteration in color and reflectance/hotspotting would be the potential problems...
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Any idea what a flat clear urethane over c&s would do? I'm thinking of ways to reduce the need to repaint for spills, dents and scratches... I guess alteration in color and reflectance/hotspotting would be the potential problems...
Polyurethane top-coats have been proven to add yellow to the screen which just gets stronger with age. Poly has no business in or on a screen mix. I know this is a popular thing to do on another DIY screen forum, but that's their problem. ;) Even they stopped using poly as a top-coat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I suppose it could be balanced out if it was stable, but if it changes with time, it rather defeats the purpose. GIven what urethane 'spar' products do to the color of doors and decks, this doesn't surprise me.

Maybe C&S Ultra will last in the can better than the original did ;)

BTW, the setup is in a basement, standard 8' ceiling, Optoma HD80 inverted on the ceiling projecting onto a wall, projected height maximum about 6 1/2'. Light colored tile floor with a black rug in front of the screen, dark red blackout curtains on the glass doors, light colored ceiling (looking to change that), mix of colors in the room. Gradually drifting darker as we redo finishes. Side wall on the side away from the doors (two sets of doubles) is pretty far away, not much scatter back from that side. The back wall is a good 30 feet away, which seems to help. Pretty good setup, but could use more lumens/sq ft and/or less back reflection. Hate to make the screen smaller; I like the big picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I repainted my screen last night using this C&S Ultra mix, and it looks great! I previously had a plain OTS ~N8 (paint + poly) screen, which just didn't do it for me. It didn't have enough "pop", and the picture looked dull. (You can read a little more about that here.)

BTW- This is painted on the wall, not a dedicated substrate screen (yet.)

So yesterday i bought the paints and mixed up the C&S Ultra to put on the screen. I bought a handy measuring cup from Kroger that has the measurements labeled on sort of a diagonal "ramp" so that you can see from above how much fluid is in the cup. Makes measuring a lot easier than having to read it from the sides! :)

I measured 16oz of the white paint, and dumped that into a mixing bucket. Then i added the contents of 4 tubes of the Liquitex Silver. Then i cleaned out the measuring cup and measured 8oz of distilled water into the measuring cup. I used Harp's tip about using a syringe to inject the water into the tubes and shake them to get every last bit of paint out of the tubes. I also tried using the tubes themselves to just suck the water into them, and that worked fine as well.

Then i started mixing the paints and water using a mixing attachment to my cordless drill. I kept the drill on "screwing" mode, which resulted in slower spinning. (In hindsight, it looks like this was a mistake.) I mixed for a good while until i saw no more unevenness. The paint mix still looked pretty thick, so i decided to add another 4oz of water, and then mixed for a while longer until it seemed it had all been mixed together well.

I poured some of the mix into a tray to get ready to paint, and closed off the mixing bucket with the remainder of the paint. I had bought a 3/16 nap roller that was different from the one i had used before for my N8 OTS gray screen. When i started painting with it, i noticed a much more pronounced pattern / texture to the paint than i saw with my previous OTS solution. This could have been the paint, my mixing, or the roller. It's probably a little bit of all of the above.

The thing that alarmed me was that the paint looked all "blotchy" / "spongy". There was an obvious pattern of light and dark that sort of looked like the surface of a sponge. I attribute part of this to the roller, but i also probably didn't mix well / long enough. I did not want to abort halfway through though, so i just kept on going. I had expected i'd need to do a second coat, so this was no major setback.

As i let the first coat cry, it really looked rather . The pattern was very visible on program material, and it was worse in some areas than in others. It even felt like it was thicker in some places than in others. So i took a sanding sponge / block, and started lightly sanding the surface to even things out. I used circular motions and went over the whole screen a few times, concentrating on the main problem areas. This did help some, but clearly i would need another coat of paint.

When i went back to my mixing bucket, i felt that the paint was actually too thick still, so i added another 4oz of water. Then i mixed it all some more, but this time i used the "drill" speed setting on the drill. This resulting in much more aggressive mixing, which i think was much better than the slower speed i had used earlier. I used up an entire battery before finally deciding i had mixed long enough :D The viscosity of the paint looked about right after this. It was a little thinner than before, but not too runny. It was comparable to the viscosity of the base white paint basically. So all in all i ended up adding 16oz of water instead of the minimum of 8 mentioned in the recipe.

I also swapped out the roller and went back to my original roller - the yellow foam 3/16 nap. When i started painting with this slightly thinner mix with this other roller, the results were much better right away with a much finer texture / pattern. I painted the whole screen, then sat down and kept my fingers crossed that i had gotten a nice even coat. In most of my previous attempts i had found one thing or another wrong with the final coat i had put on. Apparently i'm just not a painter! :D This time though it looked like the coat had no unevenness in it anywhere. I was projecting some movie on it, and of course it looked all glittery to start with. I was a little worried about the silver creating too much glitter for my taste, but i just had to wait and see how it would dry.

As the paint dried, the screen got a lot more uneven! I was getting worried and frustrated. I clearly saw all kinds of unevenness, with some areas clearly brighter and more sparkly than others. I was halfway expecting that i'd have to start over, but it was getting late and it would have to wait until the next day. I already started going through the list of things to try - sanding, more thinning, other rollers etc. I just kept watching some movies and TV material to at least evaluate the black level and brightness / punchiness of the image, and was pleased to see that it looked much better than my N8 paint from before. Then "suddenly" it seemed that all the paint dried past a certain point, and all the unevenness and sparklyness disappeared! :) The screen looked great! I cued up the Hoth scene from Star Wars, as that would most certainly reveal any flaws in the finish, but was pleased to not seen anything catching my eye as the picture panned across my screen :)

So far i'm really liking the C&S Ultra result. It allows me to keep using the low output but quiet & color accurate mode on my projector while still getting a nice punchy picture. Blacks are obviously still gray, but they are certainly acceptable to me. All in all - success!

Thank for sharing these formulas with us here for us to try!
 
41 - 60 of 178 Posts
Top