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Thanks Don. I tested a patch of both BW and C&S Ultra last night. Obviously both produced a very nice image. I found myself using the eco-light setting with the C&S and BW was on the border of requiring bright mode. I'll take your suggestion of a 2:1 mix and call it a day!

As for the dim DVI phenomenon... perhaps I should dig out the component cables and A/B a few sources.

And to everyone else, thanks for your input... it's much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Thanks Don. I tested a patch of both BW and C&S Ultra last night. Obviously both produced a very nice image. I found myself using the eco-light setting with the C&S and BW was on the border of requiring bright mode. I'll take your suggestion of a 2:1 mix and call it a day!

As for the dim DVI phenomenon... perhaps I should dig out the component cables and A/B a few sources.

And to everyone else, thanks for your input... it's much appreciated!
You are very welcome!

If you do those source tests please let up know how they turn out! Unless you already have a colorimeter or spectrophotometer you will need some kind of light meter to do those tests. You can get this one from Amazon for $25 with free shipping. I have one, and some others on this forum do too, it is a good accurate meter.

 

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Harp and others just replied to the unique gray hotspotting thread but jist of it is and not going to repeat it here. That gray with bulb hours and the changes I made to my room just to dark for me. Its been a year and looking to do the C&S now. Please don't anyone leak this to my wife as she will kill me gonna sneak it in on a weekend.

My question is ambient light is no longer any issue but I sit 13' back from the screen, epson 8350. I have 2 can lights above the couch back there on dimmers and I do keep them on very low and I mean low just to talk with people during the football games and see them so based on that I can't imagine that would cause a problem with the C&S or am I incorrect which I probably am. I know this mix does not take ambient light but would the cans shooting down have any effect.

Thanks, Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Harp and others just replied to the unique gray hotspotting thread but jist of it is and not going to repeat it here. That gray with bulb hours and the changes I made to my room just to dark for me. Its been a year and looking to do the C&S now. Please don't anyone leak this to my wife as she will kill me gonna sneak it in on a weekend.

My question is ambient light is no longer any issue but I sit 13' back from the screen, epson 8350. I have 2 can lights above the couch back there on dimmers and I do keep them on very low and I mean low just to talk with people during the football games and see them so based on that I can't imagine that would cause a problem with the C&S or am I incorrect which I probably am. I know this mix does not take ambient light but would the cans shooting down have any effect.

Thanks, Brian
I think you would probably be OK with the cans set very low, but such things are quite subjective. One of the best things to do is to get a low cost light meter like the one I showed and linked to a few posts back. This would let you KNOW how much light is hitting your screen, both ambient and from the projector.

Note: Valspar has changed the name and label of the paint yet again! The paint is now called Valspar Ultra super flat finish. Everything else is the same. I'll try to make the correction and add a new photo this week.
 

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I think you would probably be OK with the cans set very low, but such things are quite subjective. One of the best things to do is to get a low cost light meter like the one I showed and linked to a few posts back. This would let you KNOW how much light is hitting your screen, both ambient and from the projector.

Note: Valspar has changed the name and label of the paint yet again! The paint is now called Valspar Ultra super flat finish. Everything else is the same. I'll try to make the correction and add a new photo this week.
Is the number still the same for the new name on the valspar, good thing I looked at the first page as I did not realize the valspar needs a tint. Decided the cans are not a problem going with the C&S but the liquitex silver getting a bit confused its the basic is there a model or part number that identifies the correct liquitex silver?

Thx again for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Is the number still the same for the new name on the valspar, good thing I looked at the first page as I did not realize the valspar needs a tint. Decided the cans are not a problem going with the C&S but the liquitex silver getting a bit confused its the basic is there a model or part number that identifies the correct liquitex silver?

Thx again for all the help.
Good question if the paint number is staying the same or not through 2 relabellings. At this point I don't know for sure. I went to Lowe's yesterday to get a can of the "new" Valspar Ultra that is labeled paint and primer in one, but they didn't have that paint in quarts so I got a can of the intermediate labeling shown in the first post of this thread. The number of that can IS the same as the old Valspar Ultra Premium flat enamel. I really don't think you have to be too concerned about this, the flat enamel only added a small bit of gloss, and thus gain, to the mix. The "super flat" IS the same paint just with a new name, and I am still betting that the new paint and primer in one super flat is STILL the same paint and the only reason for the name change is for marketing. I WILL verify this as soon as I can find a quart of the newest labeling.

When used to make C&S™ Ultra the super flat without tint still makes a mix within our neutrality standards, but with the tint it is even more neutral so we do recommend it be tinted. You have to have a pretty good eye for color to even tell the paint has been tinted. To a lot of folks it would still appear to be white.

While Liquitex does make a number of different lines of paint they only have two lines that have the word BASICS in them. One is "BASICS MATT" and the other is simply "BASICS". Most craft stores (Michael's and A.C. Moore) have stopped carrying the BASICS MATT, but do carry the BASICS. As far as I can tell the BASICS Silver is only available in 4 oz. tubes and 8 oz. jars. Of these two the jars would be preferable since they are easier to get all the paint out of. The Liquitex color number for BASICS Silver is #236.
 

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Harp when I go on the website for lowes this is what comes up under valspar 213482 now.
Valspar Ultra Premium Quart Interior Flat Enamel Ultra White Paint
Item #: 213482 | Model #: 007.0213482.005
Label is now silver with a dark blue ring at the top. If you look at the specs it does say primer recommended so now really confused is this the same paint as what you have on the first page with just a label color change. I know u mentioned they now were making it with the primer in it but this does not appear to have primer in it unless they have the specs listed wrong. Its in stock at my Lowes in GA by the quart.
 

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Harp when I go on the website for lowes this is what comes up under valspar 213482 now.
Valspar Ultra Premium Quart Interior Flat Enamel Ultra White Paint
Item #: 213482 | Model #: 007.0213482.005
Label is now silver with a dark blue ring at the top. If you look at the specs it does say primer recommended so now really confused is this the same paint as what you have on the first page with just a label color change. I know u mentioned they now were making it with the primer in it but this does not appear to have primer in it unless they have the specs listed wrong. Its in stock at my Lowes in GA by the quart.
Interesting also under the specs it says it is not tintable. After thinking about it have decided to go with Snowfield, going to err on the side of caution with my can lights and the 8350 has plenty of lums as I only sit 13' away shooting 110" screen. I had saw in another thread regarding someone who also thought the unique grey was a bit to dark and mech or someone had recommended Snowfield and the result being it should be about 18% brighter in theory than the Unique Grey which should work for me, going to go over the unique grey without priming starting to get to much paint on that wall. Now my dilemma is take a chance on this Valspar after change number 3 tinted to Snowfield although it now says on the specs its not tintable or I did come across the Glidden 9000 in Naks 450 thread. Possibly go with the 9000 tinted to Snowfield instead if that makes better sense.

As always thanks to everybody for the help not trying to muck up the C&S thread so please feel free to move this if I am doing so.

Brian
 

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Interesting also under the specs it says it is not tintable. After thinking about it have decided to go with Snowfield, going to err on the side of caution with my can lights and the 8350 has plenty of lums as I only sit 13' away shooting 110" screen. I had saw in another thread regarding someone who also thought the unique grey was a bit to dark and mech or someone had recommended Snowfield and the result being it should be about 18% brighter in theory than the Unique Grey which should work for me, going to go over the unique grey without priming starting to get to much paint on that wall. Now my dilemma is take a chance on this Valspar after change number 3 tinted to Snowfield although it now says on the specs its not tintable or I did come across the Glidden 9000 in Naks 450 thread. Possibly go with the 9000 tinted to Snowfield instead if that makes better sense.

As always thanks to everybody for the help not trying to muck up the C&S thread so please feel free to move this if I am doing so.

Brian
No problem Brian, any muck up is Valspar's fault and not yours. They have really messed things up with all the name changes in a short period of time. The reason your paint said it was non-tintable is because it is an "ultra white" base and there is no more room in the can for tint. The Valspar paint used for making C&S™ Ultra is a Base 1 paint which is a white paint, but there is room in the can so tint can be added and not over-fill it. As for the paint + primer deal, it's bogus, garbage, nonsense and just a marketing trick to get you to prime with expensive top-coat paint rather than a real primer that would do the job right! While they are chemically related, paint isn't primer and primer isn't paint. They do different jobs - Period, and using one for the other results in problems sooner or later.


IGNORE THE BASES USED BELOW, THIS IS JUST TO SHOW THE GENERAL LABEL APPEARANCE.
The first paint we used for making C&S™ Ultra was:


This was changed from Enamel to Super Flat finish:


Then was changed to:


With all this confusion I don't blame you for going with 'Snowfield'. :T
 

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Harp thanks for clearing that up on the Valspar as since they were putting 213482 on that can I posted I made the mistake of thinking that was the number to identify the correct base as it was the number on the 2nd go around and it was not obviously. I just did not think they would use the same number for different bases.

On hold for painting for the time being Iris in my 8350 went bad, thought the dimmer picture was due to 1200 hours on the bulb and have had more than a few projectors so I expect that but yesterday it dimmed way down luckily the San Fran game was almost over went to turn it on for the ATL game it came on but no light out of the projector and after a few minutes its shut itself off. Epson did not have that many problems with the Iris's but they did have some issues only thankful I bought an Epson and the reason was the 2 year warranty and others only have 1. I have 14 mos so could have been ugly so there policy is to ship a refurb with a brand new bulb 2nd day so the bright side is I will have a brand new bulb again.

Will check back later thanks for the help as always no question seems to dumb on the forum's which to me is what set's apart the Shack from others.
 

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Do you need me to call them Don? They are Minneapolis based and I did have a contact at Valspar at one point in time.

I'd just need to find time to do it. :eek:
That would be great Mech, but I know you are swamped with needful things already. If you DO get the chance however... ;)
 

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Harp thanks for clearing that up on the Valspar as since they were putting 213482 on that can I posted I made the mistake of thinking that was the number to identify the correct base as it was the number on the 2nd go around and it was not obviously. I just did not think they would use the same number for different bases.
They wouldn't use the same number on a different base. The first two cans shown ARE the EXACT same paint beyond a doubt. What is up in the air right now is the "new" paint+primer version. I noticed that for this "new" paint they have started using letters as base designation instead of numbers. More about this as facts surface.

On hold for painting for the time being Iris in my 8350 went bad, thought the dimmer picture was due to 1200 hours on the bulb and have had more than a few projectors so I expect that but yesterday it dimmed way down luckily the San Fran game was almost over went to turn it on for the ATL game it came on but no light out of the projector and after a few minutes its shut itself off. Epson did not have that many problems with the Iris's but they did have some issues only thankful I bought an Epson and the reason was the 2 year warranty and others only have 1. I have 14 mos so could have been ugly so there policy is to ship a refurb with a brand new bulb 2nd day so the bright side is I will have a brand new bulb again.

Will check back later thanks for the help as always no question seems to dumb on the forum's which to me is what set's apart the Shack from others.
We'll be here. :T
 

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im well aware of how wacky things have gotten at lowes, but can you give (to best of your knowledge) the current recipe for making cream and sugar with valspar paint? could i use a sherwin williams base instead of valspar, or is valspar the preferred base for cream and sugar?

thanks
dave
 

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im well aware of how wacky things have gotten at lowes, but can you give (to best of your knowledge) the current recipe for making cream and sugar with valspar paint? could i use a sherwin williams base instead of valspar, or is valspar the preferred base for cream and sugar?

thanks
dave
I suggest you use a Valspar paint because that is the paint that has the correct color tint determined for it. To quote from the first post of this thread:
The base paint is Valspar Ultra Premium Interior Latex Flat Enamel Base 1 with the following tint and amount - 115-0.67 for a quart of paint.

If the Valspar Ultra Premium in Flat Enamel isn't available then get Valspar Ultra Premium in Super Flat finish. If that paint isn't available then get Valspar Ultra in Super Flat finish in whatever base they suggest that is similar to the old Base 1. All three paints would use the same tinting formula of 115-0.67 per quart.
 

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I am triying to do the hts-x2 i have the two paints, the Berh N6, and the Berh #1850 base, But the Craft Smart metallic Silver doesnt work any more, am thinking to use the Liquitex BASICS 'Silver' acrylic paint, this is going to work? or what i can do? or this paint work with the new formula of the Craft Smart metallic Silver?
Sorry for my english, am learning.
 

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I am triying to do the hts-x2 i have the two paints, the Berh N6, and the Berh #1850 base, But the Craft Smart metallic Silver doesnt work any more, am thinking to use the Liquitex BASICS 'Silver' acrylic paint, this is going to work? or what i can do? or this paint work with the new formula of the Craft Smart metallic Silver?
Sorry for my english, am learning.
Welcome to HTS! :wave:

Sorry for the late response, sometimes times gets away from me. :blush:

what is the tint formula for the #1850 base you have? There were 3 ways to make the original C&S™ mix.
 
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