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Unlike traditional alignments, horns don't rely so heavily on XMAX. Infact, using high XMAX drivers in a horn will lead to "throat overload". The pressure inside the horn path gets to a point where a negative pressure wave creates a vacuum effect causing turbulence and compression within the horn ultimately resulting in distortion.

The original Adire Tempest (Manufactured by Eminence) was a popular horn driver. How close are the original's t/s to the new Tempest-X?
True, at frequencies where the horn is really "in effect." However, these guys are talking about wanting the high-xmax drivers specifically for lower frequencies, when the loading at the throat is decreasing...

Both good explanations. I'm still learning about horns so any bit can help for me. I know there are tons of people out there who have good knowledge of sealed, ported, or bandpass enclosures but no experience with horns (I'm one of them but one step at a time right!!). Still waiting on our shipment of the prototypes but will update when we get them with some nice pics and assembly thoughts.
 

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I may have over looked this but any idea on when this will be available and the final price? How would something like this compare to a sealed or ported setup from like ed or svs ?
 

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Unlike traditional alignments, horns don't rely so heavily on XMAX. Infact, using high XMAX drivers in a horn will lead to "throat overload". The pressure inside the horn path gets to a point where a negative pressure wave creates a vacuum effect causing turbulence and compression within the horn ultimately resulting in distortion.

The original Adire Tempest (Manufactured by Eminence) was a popular horn driver. How close are the original's t/s to the new Tempest-X?
would simply building the enclosure on a larger scale fix this...can you use a driver with more displacement and get more output if everything is larger within ratio?
 

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I may have over looked this but any idea on when this will be available and the final price? How would something like this compare to a sealed or ported setup from like ed or svs ?
You can order now but the kits are still 2-4 weeks out (had a mad rush on drivers so they've run out). Contact their main office on pricing as shipping will vary. Compared to standard or ported subs this will be around 10 dB more efficient. Some areas more, but that's about an average. Just like Ricci posted, this is a BIG subwoofer. It has some ups and downs. Performance is it's huge plus but you won't have that nice looking piece that will just blend with your furniture. It's just a big box.

would simply building the enclosure on a larger scale fix this...can you use a driver with more displacement and get more output if everything is larger within ratio?
I'm still learning day by day how all the specs interact with the enclosures, but from everything I have seen talked about you can't really use a high excursion driver and keep the enclosure smaller than the size of a car. It's really less about the excursion and more about motor strength and impedance matching. I wish I could explain better, but I really don't know.
 

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I am a newbie at some of this so please excuse me. Does this sub play loud, low and provide any punchy bass? How many ohms is it and would 1000wrms feed to it be ok?
 

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Loud...yes very. Mike heddon of danley just updated us yesterday that when they went to show east (movie theater tradeshow) and said they took the dts 10 with them along with the th50 and the th221 monster. The th50 did nearly 130 db in my room (4000+ cubic feet) with very little wattage. Mike said the dts 10 did everything the th50 did in terms of output and sound quality but also added a lot of extension.

Low...yes very. Mike also said they played a 15 hz sine wave and switched between the 3 subwoofers and he couldn't tell a difference in the dts 10 and the th221 at 15 hz. The th50 couldn't do 15 hz justice (it did in my room so the dts 10 should be crazy).

Punchy...don't know yet. Will let you know. Can't remember impedance but I think that the drivers are 3 ohms nominal each but don't quote me. Will have to look that up. 1000 watts will be optimal.
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yea I called Danley sound labs and talked with them (I hate to use someone name) and they were very nice. He said the ohms is 4 and 1000wrms would work well with the dts10. He said in my room 3000 cu ft this would be easily capable of filling that room. I am currently trying to sale 2 subs I have now to then purchase the dts10.
 

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The enclosure kit came today. Waiting on the drivers from Tom Danley's house. Hopeful for delivery tomorrow. The enclosure box is huge Huge HUGE HUGE!! Ivan Beaver of Danley said there really is only 3 large pieces and most of the rest is bubble wrap. Here's a couple teaser pics.


 

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When will these kits be available and if they already are can someone post a link to it?
 

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Does this sub play loud, low and provide any punchy bass?
Brandon already answered the first two, but the third answer is very likely to be 'No'.

'Punchy' bass is something mostly defined in the upper frequency bass region. This sub does not seem to be usable much above 100Hz (based on the limited graphs and similar TH designs). If you want punchy bass then you'll need a sub with a higher frequency pass-band or you need mains with substantial capability in the 80-300Hz range.
 

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so would I be better keeping the 2 15's with 2600wrms power and get a box made just for the punchy bass and call it a day? I know when I called Danley sound labs they said I could easily replace these two 15's with this box (in terms of output) The guy I talked to said he heard this sub in a room about 4000cu ft i think he said and it was teeth shattering with the amount of bass from this sub. I am used to more pro audio and like the punchiness bass from like the kick and don't want just a bunch of sloppy goo from my subs. Im not saying these subs I have are like that because I haven't hooked them up yet as I am trying to finish my room. This stuff is addicting and I can never make up my mind :(
 

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I'm not sure where "not punchy" is coming from. This thing is at it's most sensitive range at 100 hz (110 db 1 watt measured outdoors at 1 meter). I will say that this is a subwoofer meant and thought of originally for home theater use. Due to a limitation on my receiver (older pioneer) The lowest on the crossover I can do is 100 hz. I've heard the TH50 with an 80 hz crossover and that seems to be the optimal crossover point. I'll agree with Marstedt and say that if you want really good punchy bass with this sub crossed over in the more home theater oriented 80-100 hz you should get some more capable mains. After assembly I believe better main speakers may become my focus. Haven't decided yet.



Jreaves, This sub will absolutely outpower 2-15's of just about any sort. At my subwoofer meet back in april the most powerful DIY sub we had there was Ricci's RE XXX 18" in a large sealed box. With a lot of power going to it I believe it was in the lower 120's going nearly full out. The TH50 was barely chugging along at 128-129. The reason I keep going back to the TH50 is because the DTS10 was designed to do what the TH50 does and get lower too. Here's what Mike Heddon said after getting back from Show East (commercial movie theater trade show)

"As a quick post, we played the latest Transformers almost continuously at Show East. Our demo room was many times larger than any HT discussed on this forum. The DTS10 held its own just fine and remember we had the TH221 sitting there as well! The TH221 wins hands down in a maximum output but you are dealing with a sensitivity of [email protected] and power handling of 3000 watts RMS!! I also had the TH50 and there is no question the DTS10 does everything it does but goes substantially lower. At one point I played a 15Hz sine wave through the systems and switched between the three subs. The TH50 didn't even come close to reproducing it and both the DTS10 and TH221 easily reproduced it. Fact is you couldn't really tell between the TH221 and the DTS10 @ 15Hz.
Show East is the commercial cinema show with huge movie studio participation and while I know most of these commercial rooms can't hold a candle to a serious HT, many that I spoke with are very much aware of the need for improving the audio experience as well as the HD video side. Most of the projectors being demo'd cost more than most folks homes! Danley Sound Labs' demo created a serious buzz at the show and I have no doubt we will be going into several cinemas around the world.

Mike Hedden
Danley Sound Labs, Inc."

For those of you who haven't heard of the TH221, it's a massive 2x21" tapped horn that accepts a ton of power and can, by itself (ONLY 1 TH221), run an entire IMAX theater.
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/pdf/TH%20221%20spec%20sheet.pdf

I've opened up the box to take a look and take out some of the packing materials to try and get a better idea of what I'm getting into. After just receiving an e-mail from Tom Danley a few minutes ago I think I will start the build today before the drivers come in. That way the glue and everything will dry correctly before blasting this thing with high pressures from low frequencies :bigsmile:
 

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Based on info posted over on the main thread (AVS):

1. $975 + shipping
2. 325 lbs shipping plus drivers
3. Kit available for order now, will ship in 2-4 weeks.
Great, Thanks.
 

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so would I be better keeping the 2 15's with 2600wrms power and get a box made just for the punchy bass and call it a day?
If you are making a mid-woofer then most probably Danleys Sub-woofer is not something you are looking for.

Mid woofers with punchy bass are quite the different from subwoofers with massive output.
 

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I know from talking with danley sound labs this dts 10 would be capable of like 120's to 130's if I recall correctly. Definitely keep me posted on this build and how it sounds b/c I am seriously thinking of buying one myself.
 
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