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Looks like they have made the packaging a little smaller then the one sent to Brandonnash. When do you think you will have your's up and running?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
It'll be at least a week on the drivers, so a bit after that. I plan on unpacking it this afternoon. I'll then be taking inventory of any extra items I may need (glue, sealer, nuts, terminal) and picking those up tomorrow afternoon. Assembly will likely be Saturday morning as I need a solid 6hrs or so squared off and I just won't have that until then.
 

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Great, Keep us informed and don't forget the Pic's. I think they have a list in the box of everything you will need that wasn't included. At least I think that is what Brandonnash said.
 

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I finished this a couple days ago and here's some of the build pics.


This is the base panel. Notice everything is very precision cut so all you really have to do is glue and screw.


Both pieces of pre-assembly done.



Driver baffles.


One fold of the horn.


Stood up on its side to see another fold.



Getting the sides of the box on.


Closeup of the baffles.


Interior shot partially built.


Interior done





A little acoustic padding to take the higher frequencies



Finished product minus the panels


Add a can of soda on top to give better size reference


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Some assembly notes I wrote during the build.

First and foremost---READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND READ THEM AGAIN. You could seriously make a huge mistake if you are not familiar with the instructions. You could potentially glue and screw an incorrect piece oriented incorrectly and mess up the whole thing.

Ask a friend over to help you. I did this on my own but realize that it would've gone a lot quicker if I would have had an extra set of hands and just more manpower in general. I'm a big guy at 6'3 or 6'4 and 275 lbs. I can lift a lot, but repeated lifts of this thing especially getting towards the end when you're already tired can make it difficult to lift. The extra set of eyes on your friend to double check your interpretation of the instructions also helps.

Don't set a time limit. DO THIS RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!! Don't rush it. You may risk messing this up if you hurry. Start in the early afternoon so that you can have into the night if you need to.

When you open the shipping package and are ready to assemble you should take your parts list and double check that everything is there. If any pieces are missing you also risk messing up the design. These are made this way for a reason.

Lay out your pieces letter side up for faster access. I didn't do this and wish that I had done it. It would have saved me a few minutes worth of time.

Have plenty of the glue of your choice. You will need a lot of it. I used a lot on this build and I am now out of glue. Also you want to take your parts list to a hardware store and pick up the extra screws/bolts needed that aren't included. You don't want to get late in the build and run out of anything. Buy extra of everything just in case.

One other very important note. I mistakenly assembled the base panel along with all the folds the first time. You're not suppose to do this. I was lucky in that everything did fit, but it was tight in 1 or 2 places. Essentially you're making the baffles and folds, gluing and screwing them together then putting the large panels on last. This ensures that you can fit everthing quickly and correctly.

This really was a fun build. A kit like this takes the guesswork out of making your own. If someone was to ask me to do this again I would in a heartbeat.

After some initial short term listening over the last couple days I can say that I'm very impressed with what 2 12" drivers in a tapped horn can do. It has extension, a nice clean sound, and more SPL than I'll probably ever use. I've been messing around a little with placement options and right now it's in a corner behind my TV. I'm going to play around some more with placement and probably move my seating a bit to get the most optimal sound. Ricci has his kit AND he got the drivers too so he'll be building soon and I'm very anxious to see some measurements and hear some impressions from him compared to his XXX's.
 

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Just got of the phone with Jeff at Danley and I ordered my DTS-10.:spend: Now I just need to sell my TC2000 because I don't think I will need it anymore.:T
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I unpackaged everything last night and I think that the Danley team can surely condense the package down in size some once they get more dedicated packaging for it. The shipped weight was 336lbs. It really didn't seem that heavy though. As I mentioned the shipping box I received looked like about 62"H x 29"D x 46" W. It took me about an hour to unpack everything and dispose of the unneeded materials. I inspected all of the components and wood and it is of high quality and cut very precisely and well. Also the kit should be able to be converted from left to right handed fairly quickly and easily when finished.

In the large box are:

19 pieces of wood with threaded inserts pre-installed for drivers and hatches
1 grill
1 Danley logo for the grill
1 Danley sticker with serial # and unit information
2 12" drivers
5 pieces of foam to be strategically placed in the horn path
1 roll of foam gasket tape for the access hatches and reverse mounted driver
1 included parts list and recommended components guide.
1 6 page assembly guide

Looks like the only things needed to complete the kit will be:

Driver mounting screws
Screws for the enclosure panels, grill and hatches
Some washers
Wood glue or other adhesive
Silicone or other sealant
Speaker wire
Staples
Some sort of cable tie down
Input jack
Rudimentary tools
Elbow grease
Whatever finishing that you may wish to do.

All of the exact quantities, types and sizes of screws and washers are outlined in the item list. Cut and dry.

I did not think that I would be getting the drivers for another few days yet so I have other obligations that I must attend to. I will spend the next 2 days getting all of the extra hardware needed and getting prepared as I can. I'll be building the kit on Sat morning. I have a gig to do Sat night and the glue needs a full day to dry, so I'll likely not be actually listening to it until Sunday night or even Monday night.
 

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Well I sold my TC2000 so all I have now is my Shiva in a 1.2cf box and it looks very lonely.:sad: I should have my Danley by the end of the month so I am very excited to say the least.:bigsmile: Hopefully Ricci will have some news up today......can't wait.....:clap:
 

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I've heard the finished sub was supposed to have a 3rd option for mouth location...but I assume with the mouth dimensions vs the sub's depth, it can't be located at the end, only on 1 of the large faces?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Sorry I'm so slow everybody. I got to it as quick as I could:)

I started the kit yesterday morning and I wrapped it up today. I have not listened to it at all yet. The cab needs to cure overnight. I did take an impedance measurement and a quick close mic measurement.

I'd say that it took me about 6 or 7hrs total. I took a bit more time than needed, but some of that was documentation and a lot of extra stuff that most people wouldn't be doing, so you can chop a few hours off. If I did a 2nd kit and just stuck to the basic build and knew what I was doing it'd probably be more like 3hrs. Either way block off an afternoon and give yourself a good 6hrs to do it and don't try to rush and get it done. Overall it was a straight forward process that was relatively simple. The one trouble spot that I ran into was securing the side panels onto the constructed inner works. The first one wasn't too bad with only minor effort needed to get the inner panels to fall into the dado's. The 2nd one was a bit tougher however. I tried for nearly 30min to get it to fall into place. Eventually I got frustrated and resorted to stomping on it in the area that wouldn't sit down and what do you know, that's what worked:rolleyes:. Luckily the whole enclosure construction is really solid, so nothing was damaged in the process. That was the one hiccup. Other than that everything fit together very well and without fuss. Also I built the whole thing by myself. I don't think it'll be a problem for most unless you have back issues. If so then you may want help as you'll need to flip the whole assembly a few times and stand it up.

This kit takes a LOT of screws. Probably around 200 in the enclosure construction not counting the ones for driver mounting and all of the hatches. I used drywall screws for the panels. The end result is really solid and dead feeling except for the relatively unbraced area by the mouth. I sealed up all of the internal edges with caulking as well. It doesn't call for this in the kit construction instructions, but I figured... Why not? The instructions and schematics with the kit were fine. They aren't overly detailed, but they easily get the job done and where there may be room for some deviation or customization to suit a particular end user it's basically left open to interpretation.


The drivers seem to be well built and very solid so far. I measured the TSP's with the Woofertester and they were very, very close to each other. RE,FS, and MMS were all identical. Also I tested them free air to make sure there were no problems before putting them in the cabinet and there were none. Tom listed the xmax rating as 15mm. They were quite clean and noise free all the way up to about 20mm one way and didn't start to get noisy (vent and suspension) until what looked like about 25mm one way using my trusty eye gauge. What I'm saying here is that these drivers do not just fall apart at 15mm. They've got quite a bit of "go" left in them after that. Don't know where the bottom would be, but I'd guess around 30mm inward with a really tight suspension at that point.

One interesting observation is if you tap on the driver cone once you get the kit together there is a lot of sound produced and I could feel the vibration in the driver as a long sustaining very low freq pulse. Way louder, stronger, more sustained and just different than what you get if you tap on the cone of a ported or sealed alignment. Nothing scientific. Just something I thought was neat and caught my attention.

Here is the impedance that I got with the WFT3 and the one that DSL measured. Notice that they are very similar in some ways such as the frequencies that the peaks are located at and yet are very different in others like at the low end and in the overall magnitude of the peaks.







Here is a preliminary close mic FR. It is also very close to what DSL measured, but there are a few differences, which are probably related to the procedures and equipment used. Ignore the low end below around 12hz on mine because the CE4000 is down about 2db at 10hz and falls off very rapidly from there. I am going to get another measurement later on with a different amp that doesn't have as aggressive of a hpf. Also my drive level was way lower than the one that DSL used. In light of all of that the fact that they do look so comparable gives me a warm fuzzy feeling about my low budget measurements. :)










Listening will start tomorrow.
 

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Ricci, this will be interesting - wish Ilkka was still hanging around for detailed outdoor testing.

What do you think your final, total cost is going to be? Kit, shipping, drivers, screws, glue, bolts, paint for finishing, etc.? It's looking to me like this will come in a couple hundred more than what would be needed to build two high excursion 18" driver LLTs, say Maelstrom Xs - does that seem about right?
 

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Ricci, this will be interesting - wish Ilkka was still hanging around for detailed outdoor testing.

What do you think your final, total cost is going to be? Kit, shipping, drivers, screws, glue, bolts, paint for finishing, etc.? It's looking to me like this will come in a couple hundred more than what would be needed to build two high excursion 18" driver LLTs, say Maelstrom Xs - does that seem about right?
to the DEATH! cudos to you, sir.
 

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I'm just wondering - it's always good to have a measuring stick.
well I just can't seem to get an answer, but then, I guess the jury is still out. 4 21" MX's tuned to 15Hz, or, 3 DTS10 Super Spuds, from 11Hz-35Hz... who wins? I gotta pull the trigger soon here... I hope there is a definitive answer in the next few weeks.
 

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Great Job Ricci. Cant wait for your listening results......:T
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I'd say that the total cost with all of that included is around $1150 Steve.

2 Mal-X sw's should end up a bit more expensive after factoring enclosure materials and the extra amplifier costs, unless you want to run each Mal-x off of about 650w. I'm much more interested in performance than minimizing costs though. I'm not going to speculate on the performance even though I'm pretty sure that I have an idea of how things shake out. It will take quite a bit of effort to make as well designed and solid of an enclosure. There's more to things than max output too and some of the speculation is a bit ridiculous to me. Comparing it with 4 18's on 3-4x the power and even larger total enclosure volume for example. The real comparison IMHO is with one DIY high powered, 18 cu ft or larger ported 18, or maybe a pair of large 15" EBS's, or pair of 18" sealed high power subs.

I wish Illka was still around too.




Ryan,

I think it's time to just go with your gut. You won't get a definitive answer to your question. There will always be something better, so there is no clear cut winner.
 

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ya, I just can't think of a way to squeeze these into a van... if the exit was at the end, sure, but to stack them I'd have to recess each one a little further back to avoid blocking the previous mouth
 
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