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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

My buddy has a soundsplinter 18" sub, I forget exactly which one but it's rated at 1000WRMS, and he bought the Dayton 1000w RMS amp from Parts Express thinking it would be a nice match for the money. He just built the sub and was testing a little out in his pole barn and was a little surprised to find that the amp LED said the amp was clipping at about half gain, and the cone was moving only about 3/4" or so. He said it just didn't seem to be putting out what he imagined it would be. :hush:

The driver is not broken in, it was 30 degrees out there, he was getting a signal from a perhaps marginal source, and the building is insulated on all walls, the enclosure was not against any walls.

Anyone have any experience with the Dayton amp? Is it 1000w for real or sort of overrated? I know in car audio some of the China amps say unbelievable power on the case with marginal actual power. Hopefully, this isn't the case with the Dayton!!! Would one of the Behringer amps be better? :huh: He's just ordered a BFD as well, so the PEQ on the Dayton wouldn't be necessary anymore.

The end results was I told him to get the driver broken in, then move the sub to the house and get it dialed in somewhat to see what it does.

Anyhow, he and I give thanks to whomever may have some info on this situation.
 

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What sort of enclosure is the SS in? How big is the room?

That Dayton is a good amp, I'm not sure how it would hold up against the EP2500.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He has it in a LLT config., I think 18 ft. cubed. It's huge. The "room" was his large by large pole barn, which I'm sure swallowed everything the sub could dish out with ease.

I'm glad to hear someone say the Dayton is a good amp. Maybe since the driver isn't broken in, and since he was playing some hip-hop music the sub wasn't getting a good chance?
 

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driver break in wouldent be the issue, not to this extent.

How does he have it hooked up to the amp? Need a little more info on the driver to figure this out. As if he has a dual 4 ohm driver and hooked it up so it appears as 8 Ohms you would be losing about half the power output, and if you wired it up as 2 ohm you could be over stressing the amp. same for if its dual 2 ohm, except that you are going for a 4 ohm load on the amp, which would get you all those watts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He happens to have the dual 2 ohm version, wired in series to get 4 ohm. Should be the goods.
 

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I've got the plate amp version going into a sealed box with a TC-3000 (also dual 2-ohm wired in series) and will let you know how it turns out once I get it complete, hopefully this weekend. I've only run the sub free-air with the amp but I was also able to get the clip light blinking, but the sub was moving quite a bit, and the gain was maxed out. It would be nice to do some bench testing with this amp. Only I don't have a 4 ohm load that can handle kilowatt of power. :)
 

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Yeah, I don't have a reference link but I remember reading somewhere it only takes about a 1/2 second to break in a driver. Sorry I can't argue a clear case as to why, but driver break-in sounds like an urban myth to me, so I don't think that's your friend's problem.
 

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Driver break-in is not a myth, it is real. It is just in the world of subwoofer it really dosent matter.

When it comes to Mids it can make a difference. It all has to do with the spider and loosening it up to what it will be at for the rest of its use. when the speaker is built the spider is stiffer and this can provide different T/S specs then what a broken in one will do.

though dont bother with subs, you may gain a little over time you wont notice.

Break-in cannot be the problem, if it were then the spider would be super stiff resisting movement and if it were that would lead to mean that it was built incorrectly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've got the plate amp version going into a sealed box with a TC-3000 (also dual 2-ohm wired in series) and will let you know how it turns out once I get it complete, hopefully this weekend. I've only run the sub free-air with the amp but I was also able to get the clip light blinking, but the sub was moving quite a bit, and the gain was maxed out. It would be nice to do some bench testing with this amp. Only I don't have a 4 ohm load that can handle kilowatt of power. :)
He said he had his clipping easily with the gain at half! I'm just surprised at this.

I guess I never knew that breaking in a sub was so low on the list. It seems since the sub goes through such large excusions, that any difference in mechanical force to move the cone would result in some sizeable differences in performance. But I don't have any data or anything to back that, just a thought. I'll take your word for it.

We'll see what happens next weekend when the crew of 4 comes over to move it into his house. He and a friend tried in vain to move it last weekend. :flex: then :surrender:
 

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Gain really has nothing to do with anything other then matching the amp to the rest of the system. Dont think that because its half way it is somehow at half volume. It is not. Gain is just modifying the voltage input and thus the output.

The mechanical force being exerted by the coil over powers the additional resistance the spider has before its broken in.
 
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