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I'd go with 2 IB318's. More headroom in this system plus you'll be able to unload the Fi drivers quickly on the used market if you ever decide to change things up again. There will also be the option of adding two more to the same manifold. The down side is that you'll likely be amp limited with your current amp and be unable to get the full potential.

If you can't or don't want to ever change amps, go with the daytons.

Either of these drivers should perform about equally up to 120 Hz. They are both high Le designs which means they are not the best at higher freqs (in theory). The dayton ref hf would be better if you're really worried about it, but I'm not saying you should.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Those Fi's are looking better and better. If I were going for highest SPL there would be no question but to get the Fi's. In a balanced system that has respectable bass output, I think the Dayton's might be good enough.

If I were to go with 4 of the Dayton's ( http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-455 ) what would be the best wiring configuration. My ATI AT1506 amp manual states: 150w @8ohms, 225w @ 4ohms, 450w bridged @ 8ohms.
I'm wondering if using a single bridged channel to feed all 4 drivers would help to keep them all in phase with each other. So then what would be the best wiring between all the drivers?
 

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You'd definitely go 8Ω bridged as those Dayton drivers are 8Ω each, so two in parallel would be 4Ω, then connect the two sets in series for a total load of 8Ω to your amp.

If you went Fi, you could go with 4Ω drivers and just connect them in series for 8Ω total. If you added two more drivers, you could wire them up for a 4Ω total which would be perfect for a stronger amp run bridged, eg behringer pro-amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for all the input.

So far with pricing, 2-Fi 18's are only $50 more than 4-Dayton 15's.
Unless something else changes my mind, the Fi 18 option seems to be worth the extra money. That's too bad, I was really interested in hearing how the Dayton's sound.

Very soon I'll make my decision and let you all know, then start a new build thread (don't expect too many pics, but I'll try my best).
 

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Discussion Starter #29
...Bridging 4 channels of the amp to 2 channels and using one channel to each D4 Fi sub, a pair will handle 800 watts...
I will definitely try this with my amp. But I don't want to be missing my 450w/ch for my front 3 speakers for very long, so I'll have to get another amp soon.
What models would you all recommend (keeping in mind I would be using the 4ohm drivers)? I've noticed that the Behringer's are very popular here and on that other IB website.
What's best: a very powerful 1ch amp, or a less powerful 2ch amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Good idea. I'll test drive it first before definitely saying that just the 2 drivers will be enough.
But I'm 99% sure that 2 drivers will be enough. As mentioned earlier, I just want proper bass. Even if this IB set up is only slightly better than my current set up, I will be satisfied. If I want to show off or make my head explode I can go out to the garage and listen to my car's HSU sub (it's a 12" sealed cylinder enclosure, not as loud or earth shaking as the JL dual 10" bandpass that I used to have, but the HSU still rattles the windows and has 100% better sound quality than the bandpass).
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Sorry for dragging this out but I sold a few things at the house today and came away with some extra cash. I can afford to buy a 2ohm capable amp now instead of having to wait and use my existing 4ohm/8ohm amp.
I have decided on the 2-Fi IB318's. But now that I can afford the new amp straight away....
... is there any reason to get the 2ohm instead of the 4ohm driver?
... if using 2-2ohm drivers, is the EP2000 amp still the most practical choice?


Here's my understanding of the 2ohm vs 4ohm difference:
Higher restistence (i.e. 4ohm/8ohm) delivers better sound quality.
Lower restistence (i.e. 1ohm/2ohm) delivers more power.
Exception...If you have an amp that is made to run optimally at 2ohms, then running a 2ohm load will yeild the best sound quality.

If all this is true, would the EP2000 amp deliver better sound quality with 2ohm drivers or 4ohm drivers?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I just ordered a pair of the Fi IB318's 4ohm (4ohm seemed to be the most versatile).
$550 delivered. They say it could be a 30 day built time.

Probably will end up going with the EP2000 amp.

Thank you all for the input.
 

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i had 4 of these four a period of time, and i loved em since they produced good sq and proper spl for the price i paid ~300 $. But unfortionetly i happened to play a bit to high with to low freq which ended in 4 non working drivers.
But if you keep playing at a decent level you should be happy :)

edit: didnt read the thread before i posted and i saw you've ordered already :duh:
 

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4 pages. 1 response ,the very last, attempted to answer threads initial question. and this cat apologized. sound detail replaced with spl. if phase coherency is maintained, 4 independent drivers may decouple room modes more effectively, at least when using conventional box subs. stress to ceiling structure spread out and future driver repair cost and complexity potentially lessened. lighter weight per unit safer at potentially dangerous installation height, factors such as these could easily out weigh a few db at threshold of hearing frequencies. very immature, gentlemen. very immature. it's like you folks enjoyed this. like you derived pleasure from helping this thread's poster hotrod his ceiling. BE CAREFUL. you might suddenly realize you are dangerously close to having fun.
 
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