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I am going to give building an amp a try now. I just ordered a Bang & Olufsen ICEpower 50ASX2 SE 2x50W Class D Amplifier, and a B&O ICEpower 125ASX2 amplifier module. This will give me enough power to power 2 of my new speakers (bi-amped). Iam still looking for one more of each to finish off the amp, and an enclosure. I am hoping this turns out to be pretty easy to build. I need to still find the banana jacks, power connector, and a power button for this too. Am I forgetting anything? I will have to make up the wires for wiring too.
 

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Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.
image1.jpg

And here's the front panel. Nice enclosure, eh?
image2.jpg
 

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Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.



And here's the front panel. Nice enclosure, eh?
Louie, your links did not work for me.

How about power, is that covered? Those amp modules can be very capable, looking forward to your writeup.
 

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Louie, your links did not work for me.

How about power, is that covered? Those amp modules can be very capable, looking forward to your writeup.
I think we have power covered...the 50wpc ones will be for the horns, and the 125wpc ones will be for the bass bins. I am going to try and use a Elan 16 channel case for my amp build. I figure this way it will at least have all the holes on the back for me to do all 14 channels as IcePower modules. I am thinking another 4 IcePower 125wpc modules should complete all 14 channels required, and have zero fan noise. I will post up pics as i progress. I have never built anything like this so I will have a friend assisting me if i run into problems. I am hoping that by buying the modules it is more of an assembly of parts than one where i am soldering pieces on a circuit board.
 

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Still tinkering, eh Ron?! From this pic I found of the module's back panel, it seems this particular version also has a balanced input and a switch to toggle between AES/EBU and RCA input connections.



And here's the front panel. Nice enclosure, eh?
I wish your links worked... I am a member over there too. ;)

I will have to see if I have enough room for 28 XLR connections too.
Strange they work when quoted though.
 

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I found 2 more amp modules, so now i have enough to do the front 3 channels bi-amped. I will try to arrange the modules so i can run all the channels in the Elan case (if I get it).
 

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I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.

Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.

A spec that is hard to find these days for most power amps is crosstalk, or channel separation, which tends to decrease with frequency and can impact SS&I at high (10 kHz) frequencies.

Best way to make it not an issue would be to do vertical bi-amping, where the two channels of an amp are used to power the two drivers of the same speaker. Don't know how that would mess up your plans and don't know how much audible difference it would make. Just a thought.
 

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I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.
ICEpower's feature sheet shows these modules are fully protected. I wonder if their recovery mechanism includes visual feedback. Are there any indicators that can alert the user to fault conditions? I imagine a non-functioning channel/driver would be a giveaway in a 2-way configuration, but might take awhile to detect depending on program material and playback volume. I'd prefer something a little more obvious like a power indicator changing from green to red, or better yet - flashing. Connecting the modules to a master fuse/breaker is beyond my area of expertise, and has questionable benefits for such well-protected devices. Still, I'd be more comfortable with an indication something is amiss - if for no other reason than to diagnose a problem.

Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.

A spec that is hard to find these days for most power amps is crosstalk, or channel separation, which tends to decrease with frequency and can impact SS&I at high (10 kHz) frequencies.

Best way to make it not an issue would be to do vertical bi-amping, where the two channels of an amp are used to power the two drivers of the same speaker. Don't know how that would mess up your plans and don't know how much audible difference it would make. Just a thought.
In my quest to obtain more performance from my stereo system, I crossed a path where I obsessed over channel separation. Long story short, I wound up with one monoblock per channel. No direct A/B comparison could be made - how convenient say the objectivists! - because stereo amp "A" was converted to mono. But I knew in my heart that the system sounded more like music than a assemblage of mechanical parts making musical sounds. Or so I believed. So if you believe, then you too can experience the difference low crosstalk can make (I jest, of course).
 

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I meant AC power, but I am sure you thought of that, too.

Here is a thought, kinda along the perfectionistic way of looking at things.

A spec that is hard to find these days for most power amps is crosstalk, or channel separation, which tends to decrease with frequency and can impact SS&I at high (10 kHz) frequencies.

Best way to make it not an issue would be to do vertical bi-amping, where the two channels of an amp are used to power the two drivers of the same speaker. Don't know how that would mess up your plans and don't know how much audible difference it would make. Just a thought.
Not sure if i follow... We are using the 50w version for the horns, and the 125w for the woofers in the same cabinet. Not sure is the way you say to do it, and reduce noise, but we don't need as much power for the horns, and we will have to level control the horns.
 

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What would happen if I took 2 2x4 MiniDSPs, and mounted them inside the case...would I still need level controls or could I just use the gain in the 2x4s?
 

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Guess what, Ron? You made my day. Here's an amp in a bottle from Post #752.
miniDSP land is unfamiliar to me, so maybe Wayne can answer your gain question if he's still watching.
Wasn't that a great mini amp! If I don't win the amp I am looking to use as a donor, I am thinking of making a amp case out of Aluminum, and Ironwood. I really like some of the designs I saw where the amps were made out of wood/plexi/aluminum.
 

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I BELIEVE the answer is - yes and no.

Both miniDSP 2x4 units will have gain which can be controlled by a remote, and both can be programmed to respond to the same remote, BUT, there is no gain readout (without USB connection to a computer) and keeping the two gains in sync while being changed by the remote is not something I have ried and I am guessing there might be circumstances where they might get out of sync. That would NOT be so good.
 

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I BELIEVE the answer is - yes and no.

Both miniDSP 2x4 units will have gain which can be controlled by a remote, and both can be programmed to respond to the same remote, BUT, there is no gain readout (without USB connection to a computer) and keeping the two gains in sync while being changed by the remote is not something I have ried and I am guessing there might be circumstances where they might get out of sync. That would NOT be so good.
What i meant was to use the gain control via Windows, save it, unplug the USB, and let it go. Since I don't use a remote the settings should stay, correct?
 

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Yes, that should work just fine. Once set, that gain should be retained, even through power off/on cycles.
I guess I need to order 2 kits then since they don't make a 3x6. :)
 

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4x10 is much more expensive though, plus I only need 6 channels total...2x4 is 2 channels more than I need too. I am going to order the kit version, and remove the RCAs.

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