[AudiocRaver]

We're going to want pictures.

 

[ellisr63]

We're going to want pictures.

I will take some pictures as I progress on this new project. Right now all I have are a bunch of amp modules for the front 3 channels. I plan on getting 4 more amp modules next week, and also i need to order 2 MiniDSP 2x4s for the amp. I have a Elan 16 channel amp arriving next week that doesn't work. If we can fix it i will sell it, but if not it will be the enclosure for my amp build (I got a real good deal on this, but my friend thinks it is better to fix it and sell it for a little profit. I hope to be moving forward on this over the next 2 weeks, and I am hoping it will be a pretty quick build.

 

[ellisr63]

Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?

What would be the advantage?

What would the disadvantage be?

What should I use for wiring up the MINIDSP to the amp internally? Do I just take a RCAs, and cut it in half, solder the ends to the amp module, and the rear panel?

Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?

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[Lumen]

Okay, I'll take a stab at this based on some research, but I think we need an expert to chime in :R. Hope I don't belabor the obvious!

Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?
What would be the advantage?
What would the disadvantage be?

On first read, this reminded me of the caps car-audio enthusiasts add to support current draw from a vehicle's electrical system. With powerful or multiple amps, loud passages can cause enough draw to temporarily drop system voltage (ref this article). But outboard caps supply extra current up to their rated capacity. This is an advantage which smooths out current peaks in response to musical demands, keeping it dynamic instead of flat or distorted. A disadvantage is the risk for electrical shock. So what about the electricity in your home? Do we have enough info to calculate total current draw under max operating power (I=P/V)?

Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?

It would be cost-effective if you use reasonable quality wire as in this DIY braided cable project. The 3-wire braiding provides for field cancellation and low inductance, while the wire gauge provides for low capacitance. And according to this article, Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) cable has advantages that include improved data transmission in EMC-rich environments and ease of installation. Those class-D amps have a whole lotta switchin' goin' on! But on the other hand, they're completely EMI shielded to provide a CE and FCC pre-approved design (Ref: pg.3 of ICEpower manual). It wouldn't hurt to wire everything internally with UTP, but I think it's unnecessary. What if you selectively wire only the sensitive signals with UTP? The trick then becomes how to identify them.

 

[AudiocRaver]

Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?

What would be the advantage?

I assume you mean a bypass capacitor on the power supply line for the amplifier module. That is a standard practice in electronic design, and generally a good idea, but it is always best to follow manufacturer's application note. What do they recommend? If you want to look like a pro about it, and it fits with the mfr guidelines, double-bypass each power supply line with a large electrolytic and with a ceramic disc 0.01 uF. The ceramic disk handles the very-high-frequency AC current needs for the module.

What would the disadvantage be?

Nuclear holocaust, but the possibility is exceptionally small.

What should I use for wiring up the MINIDSP to the amp internally? Do I just take a RCAs, and cut it in half, solder the ends to the amp module, and the rear panel?

yes

Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?

no

 

[ellisr63]

Would this be good for my MINIDSP hookup inside the Amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Panel-Flush-Mount-Cable-Rerii-1-Meter-3ft-Dual-USB-3-0-Extension-Mount/272552418787?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=41402&meid=7f3c52ac1725477688cbb3866acf018f&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=152348684392

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[AudiocRaver]

That looks like an extension, what you need should have a type B end to plug into the miniDSP.

 

[ellisr63]

Thanks, I will keep looking. I liked the idea of it being a circle. Do they make adapters to a type b connector?

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[ellisr63]

Would this be the right connector... https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-1-Feet-Panel-Mount-Cable/dp/B002M8VBIS

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[AudiocRaver]

Perfect.

 

[ellisr63]

I have the amp donor gutted now, and it looks like we can reuse the RCA jacks, after desoldering them from the circuit board.

Question...where do I find standoffs for mounting the boards, or do I have to make my own?

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[Lumen]

Standoff means "insulator" to me, so here are a wide variety to choose from (actually, more than you ever wanted to know about).

 

[ellisr63]

I now have these on the way:

Breakout box:
7 SpeakOn 4 pole male mounting plates
3 SpeakOn 8 pole male mounting plates
1 1u rack mount plate with 8 holes for the Speakon plates
1 1u rack mount plate for the front plate which will get 2 holes punched for the 8 pole SpeakOn plates

Still need to get...

Amp:
standoffs
12v power supply for 2 MiniDSP 2x4s which will be internally mounted

The plan right now is to use the Elan front faceplate with Cumaru wood for the side panels, perforated stainless steel for the bottom, and plexi for the top of the amp case. The back plate will have 16 RCAs for the input, 2 8 pole SpeakOn plates, AC hookup, and power switch. The 8 pole SpeakOn plates will feed all of the channels to the breakout box...which will then split them up into one pair of speakers per connector. This should make it easier to wire for bi-amping the front 3 channels and also allows me to run wire to speakers in pairs (L+R, or L front + L rear). It def should clean up the back of the amp. The breakout box will also have a plexi top, Cumaru sides, and perferated bottom. I will post up pics as soon as I get all the pieces in, and arranged in the case.

 

[opell]

Good luck, I'm looking forward to you finished project. I hope I can start a project one of these days.

 

[ellisr63]

Would this be good for powering 2 MiniDSP 2x4s inside the amp?

http://www.mpja.com/download/40watt.pdf

 

[AudiocRaver]

Would this be good for powering 2 MiniDSP 2x4s inside the amp?

http://www.mpja.com/download/40watt.pdf

Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.

 

[ellisr63]

Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.

I found a smaller one for almost the same amount...

http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Power-Supply-35A-40W-Switching-Hengfu/productinfo/16001+PS

 

[AudiocRaver]

Should work just fine.

 

[ellisr63]

I also ordered all the RCA jacks, (8) Speakon 4pole, and (8) SpeakOn 8 pole jacks, the metal standoffs, and the PS listed above. Hopefully all the parts will arrive next week so i can start laying these out. I also have submitted a design to Markertek for a rear panel that would have all the puched holes, and labeled (we will see if they will do a one off, and how expensive they are).

 

[ellisr63]

Parts are arriving daily for the build now. I own have all 8 8 pole Speakon cable ends, and 2 my addon box panels. The addon panels I have will be 4 Speakon 8 pole inputs, and 8 4 pole outputs. I am also working on having the rear panel El for the amp too.


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