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We're going to want pictures.
I will take some pictures as I progress on this new project. Right now all I have are a bunch of amp modules for the front 3 channels. I plan on getting 4 more amp modules next week, and also i need to order 2 MiniDSP 2x4s for the amp. I have a Elan 16 channel amp arriving next week that doesn't work. If we can fix it i will sell it, but if not it will be the enclosure for my amp build (I got a real good deal on this, but my friend thinks it is better to fix it and sell it for a little profit. I hope to be moving forward on this over the next 2 weeks, and I am hoping it will be a pretty quick build.We're going to want pictures.
On first read, this reminded me of the caps car-audio enthusiasts add to support current draw from a vehicle's electrical system. With powerful or multiple amps, loud passages can cause enough draw to temporarily drop system voltage (ref this article). But outboard caps supply extra current up to their rated capacity. This is an advantage which smooths out current peaks in response to musical demands, keeping it dynamic instead of flat or distorted. A disadvantage is the risk for electrical shock. So what about the electricity in your home? Do we have enough info to calculate total current draw under max operating power (I=P/V)?Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?
What would be the advantage?
What would the disadvantage be?
It would be cost-effective if you use reasonable quality wire as in this DIY braided cable project. The 3-wire braiding provides for field cancellation and low inductance, while the wire gauge provides for low capacitance. And according to this article, Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) cable has advantages that include improved data transmission in EMC-rich environments and ease of installation. Those class-D amps have a whole lotta switchin' goin' on! But on the other hand, they're completely EMI shielded to provide a CE and FCC pre-approved design (Ref: pg.3 of ICEpower manual). It wouldn't hurt to wire everything internally with UTP, but I think it's unnecessary. What if you selectively wire only the sensitive signals with UTP? The trick then becomes how to identify them.Would it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?
I assume you mean a bypass capacitor on the power supply line for the amplifier module. That is a standard practice in electronic design, and generally a good idea, but it is always best to follow manufacturer's application note. What do they recommend? If you want to look like a pro about it, and it fits with the mfr guidelines, double-bypass each power supply line with a large electrolytic and with a ceramic disc 0.01 uF. The ceramic disk handles the very-high-frequency AC current needs for the module.Some questions...
Would it be advantageous to add a large cap for each amp Module?
What would be the advantage?
Nuclear holocaust, but the possibility is exceptionally small.What would the disadvantage be?
yesWhat should I use for wiring up the MINIDSP to the amp internally? Do I just take a RCAs, and cut it in half, solder the ends to the amp module, and the rear panel?
noWould it be worth it to use a DIY Kimber Cable style braided wires for all the internal wiring?
Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.Would this be good for powering 2 MiniDSP 2x4s inside the amp?
http://www.mpja.com/download/40watt.pdf
I found a smaller one for almost the same amount...Looks like it should work. Each 2x4 needs 0.8 A current, and the power supply will give 8 A for the two units. Plenty of available current (overkill, but no harm) with good regulation and low noise. If it's cheap, go for it.