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Discussion Starter #42
Lot of activity there! Can hardly wait to find out your impressions when it's all said and done. BTW, it's a small point but did you ever decide on the internal wiring? At one point you were considering a Kimber type braid, IIRC.


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I have the wiring kit for the modules...not sure if I will go that route as the wires might be too short. I will be using my MonoPrice 12 gauge wiring for all of my cables out side of the amp including the for SpeakOns that go to the 2nd box for distribution.
 

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Discussion Starter #43

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Discussion Starter #44
I am now waiting on the new rear panel.

What is best for screws for the standoffs...with built in washer, or with a star washer.

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Discussion Starter #45
20170312_160053.jpg Here is a pic of the new gutted case with the amp modules in the approximate layout. I still need to drill the holes, and do a 90 degree bend for the aluminum mounting brackets.

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Discussion Starter #46
If you look to the right in the above pucture...you can see the orange colored wood side panels for the amp.

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Discussion Starter #47
Just made the final approval on the amp rear panel, and I should have it within the next 2 weeks.
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58d54f39e60fa/CMP-M2860373 - FINAL REV4.pdf

I still need to get like over 100 screws, and washers for the amp brackets. The black rack mount panels look great with the orange wood side panels too. As soon as I get the panel in, I will post pics of the case with the side panels installed. Getting pretty excited to se my first DIY amp coming together...hopefully it will work. :)

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Discussion Starter #48
My amp panel has shipped. The bad news is that they sent me a new invoice, and tacked on $57 for shipping! Their website advertises free shipping with no minimum, but the fine print says special order, and oversize are extra. I sent 2 emails to complain about this outrageous shipping fee for a 5 1/2" × 17 1/2" piece of aluminum. I purchased this from Markertek, and I wouldnt be complaining if it was a more reasonable $10 to even a high figure of $20.

What do you think...reasonable or not?

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Discussion Starter #49
Something is definitely wrong...the sales rep said he checked and the actual wight is 30lbs for the rear panel. We will see what they sent on Thursday this week. I am thinking they sent a complete case to me...which would be interesting since the rear panel I ordered had no mounting holes either.

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Discussion Starter #51
Here is what I got done today on the amp... I have the side panels made, but I cut them shorter than I wanted by about 1/4"... I am thinking of making a short piece of wood to come out 90 degrees from the sides and end at the end of the rack faceplate. By doing this I can recess the rear panel to flush with the metal of the case. I also got all of the aluminum plates drilled. I still need to get thee aluminum plates bent 90 degrees, and order a couple hundred washers, the remaining screws, plus sand and clear coat the side panels. I will also be installing a wood support around the top edge for a plexiglass top. Hopefully in the next week I will be assembling this piece. Next will be the matching breakout box for all the outputs.


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Discussion Starter #52
Yesterday I worked on fixing the side pieces too short. I also installed the Armor, and surround amp modules. Today I plan in installing the rest of the amp modules, and minidsp 2x4s.

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Discussion Starter #53
I am still waiting on the power plug for the amp. I also need to make the enclosure for the breakout box too.


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Discussion Starter #54
Here is what I have so far.. I am still waiting on the power plug piece. Does this look like the layout will be Good? I am trying to keep the 24v power supply as far as possible from the rca hookups on the boards, and rear panel. The power supply box is 2" from the corner of the box to the closest rca. The power supply is 3" from the closest rca wires on the closest board.


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Discussion Starter #55
Now I am looking at wiring the amp. Has anyone ever tried silver wire for internal wiring? I am thinking it might not be too expensive, and I am wondering how it might be if I went with silver for the horns, and copper for the woofers, and surround speakers.

Any input?

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That's one handsome case, and the plexiglass top is such a cool idea to admire your handiwork! Do you have any concerns regarding thermal issues? I mean, should the top have a few "breather" holes to help rising heat escape? Or are all these modules so efficient that not much heat is expected?

So one of your goals is to reduce or eliminate power supply noise-coupling onto the unbalanced RCA cables? From earlier in the thread, I understand current requirements to be minimal, so resultant magnetic fields should not be that strong. Also, shielded, twisted pair shoul make short work of both RFI and EMI. But if still concerned, you might want to consider one or more of the steps below (Ref: The 13-Step EMI Mitigation Program for Switching Power Supplies).
  • Use an EMF meter ($35) to determine the orientation and strength of the interfering field then...
  • Wire the supply to minimize loop area (formed by power line and its return path)
  • Include bypass caps between supply lines
  • Add local decoupling caps at each power supply load
  • Use a magnetic shield around the supply and/or wiring.

Is there a special reason you're interested in silver wire for the horns? I'm under the impression that silver cables do not have a signature "sound" as many audiophiles claim, and that using silver-plated wire to mitigate "skin effect" is ineffective at audio frequencies. Something else to consider: some maintain that wire should be the same throughout the signal chain, so what's outside your chassis should match the insides. The idea is that the more similar metals in the chain (include connectors and physical connections), the better the effect on sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I discussed with a friend last night, and I think I am going to go with a wall wart for the mini dips. As far as heat these amps are designed for powered speakers so the heat should be very little. I just ordered some 22 awg mil spec silver clad copper twisted pair wire for the internal wiring. From what I have read the big difference is no corrosion, but the disease advantage is breaking time (not sure if I believe in breaking time for wires or not, but the quality of mil spec wire for what I paid should be worth it, plus it is easier to solder. The amp modules are class D ones. I have thought about venting the p,exit but I am not sure it is needed since they are for powered speakers. The whole bottom is vented so in theory I could pull the heat downward and away if needed.

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Discussion Starter #58
If I like the way It sounds... I might wire to the speakers with it too, but I would need several hundred feet minimum.

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Discussion Starter #59
I will take more pics with my phone next time as the tablet doesn't do well at all.

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