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. . . . Instead of using the quarter round . . . Also would it really be that important when using 1x3's since the edge would only be ¾".
Depends on your particular fabric, but I would at least recommend rounding-off that inner edge. pre-cut lumber is never perfectly square on the edges, always a risk for outer edge to be lower than inner.

A 1x_ frame can also bow when the fabric is applied with the necessary tension. Depending on your panel size, a brace or two across the back might be required to prevent this. If given a choice, go with poplar rather than pine. A 1x3 pine frame will twist (even without fabric) before very long. :hissyfit:'Been there, done that.

My 2 cents.
--Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I am STILL waiting for my test print to show up from them. Shipped out March 4th - and it's still not here.. (Canada)

Can't wait to test it out.

Your new photos don't show the detail on the top side as much - so the print is stretched around the wooden frame at the front? This isn't ideal as you want the front and sides to be insulation and not wood (but I am sure it still makes a huge difference)
The fabric is entirely wrapped around the frame in order to provide rigidity for the (somewhat flimsy) fiberglass. If you're using Roxul or something more rigid then you might be able to skip the frame entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I've been looking all over for a good source for custom printed fabric. Just picked up a pack of 6lbs mineral fiber for $5/board. Am going to seriously look into getting some fabric from SpoonFlower. Do you know if they are strict on copyright laws (ie: refusing to copy a poster, etc).

One question though. Instead of using the quarter round on the face would it not be better to angle cut with a table saw the side of the 1x3 to create a beveled inside edge? Also would it really be that important when using 1x3's since the edge would only be ¾".
In regards to copyright I think it's mostly a matter of them assuming you've done the clearance. I haven't heard of any problems.

In regards to using 1x3, beveling with a table saw should be just fine.
 

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Luma
Thanks so much. Attached (I hope) are some of the acoustic panels that I made after reading your "How to". I did the frame construction a little different. 1 x 3 and recessed 1/4" plywood on the back to keep things square. I also used acoustic foam instead of the fiberglass. Probably not as good acoustically but I just can't stand working with fiberglass and don't want it possibly getting airborne in my room. I'll post more pics later of the construction if anyone is interested. Thanks again:T
 

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You guys have done really nice work! I'll definitely have to revisit this thread should I ever have a dedicated home theater room.

I am considering picking up a full sheet (4' x10') of 1.5" acoustic fiberglass ductboard to mount on my ceiling to absorb reflections as well as light from my ceiling mounted projector. I have been thinking about brushing/rolling fiberglass resin along the edges to stiffen them and provide ridgidity prior to covering with black fabric. I haven't come up with a nice (aesthetic) and simple (minimal damage to ceiling) method of mounting it where it will hug the ceiling quite closely. Anyone try this yet, or have ideas?
 

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Luma
Thanks so much. Attached (I hope) are some of the acoustic panels that I made after reading your "How to". I did the frame construction a little different. 1 x 3 and recessed 1/4" plywood on the back to keep things square. I also used acoustic foam instead of the fiberglass. Probably not as good acoustically but I just can't stand working with fiberglass and don't want it possibly getting airborne in my room. I'll post more pics later of the construction if anyone is interested. Thanks again:T
where are you getting your hi-resolution movie poster pics from?
 

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Just a quick comment...

They look very nice.

But may I ask if the printing is done with an ink or material that 'bridges' the fabric threads forming a film?

If so this is going to seriously impede their effectiveness as absorbers and you are going to effectively make mid-high frequency reflectors.

Traditional printing methods are not suitable.

In order to avoid this, you would need to employ a printer who uses a dye sublimation process that literally dyes each thread such that the ink literally soaks into the thread retaining the porosity of the cloth itself and imparting no additional change to the material's surface characteristics - and not sit 'on' the exterior forming a thin layer.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just a quick comment...

They look very nice.

But may I ask if the printing is done with an ink or material that 'bridges' the fabric threads forming a film?

If so this is going to seriously impede their effectiveness as absorbers and you are going to effectively make mid-high frequency reflectors.

Traditional printing methods are not suitable.

In order to avoid this, you would need to employ a printer who uses a dye sublimation process that literally dyes each thread such that the ink literally soaks into the thread retaining the porosity of the cloth itself and imparting no additional change to the material's surface characteristics - and not sit 'on' the exterior forming a thin layer.
I'm not sure what process they use, but if you check out the test results here, the "quiliting weight" fabric tests out as being very transparent.
 

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Great job, wish I had found this thread a few months back. I ended up getting a little creative and just painting my panels since the wife didn't want blank burlap on the walls
 
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