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That's what I mean. If the parameters line up, and the modeling is the same, why waste the money on the junk driver in the first place.
OR... if the parameters line up and the modeling is the same, why waste the money on the expensive driver? If the cheap one does the job...
 

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OR... if the parameters line up and the modeling is the same, why waste the money on the expensive driver? If the cheap one does the job...

Because it will not quite do the same job?
A Camry will still get you to work, but not with the same effect as corvette! Just to clear, I'm not arguing with you, as I feel you give good well thought out advice. I'm just sure the UM driver is worth stepping up to without wasting money on the classic. Maybe I'm all wet?


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Oh, I'm well aware of your intent (or lack thereof). This is precisely the type of debate that is both productive and enjoyable. The big question is the end goal... do you NEED the Corvette, or do you just WANT it? If you're just driving to work, which one constitutes waste?

The UM is not difficult to argue as being the better driver here, but at $100 more expensive it also raises the stakes of the experiment. The DCS380 driver is also 7dB more sensitive than the UM15-22, which might well require a significantly larger amplifier. If a 15" down-firing LLT isn't right for the room, building it with the more expensive components is much riskier. It would be like owning a Chevelle SS in Tokyo (which I just saw last week). Yeah, it's got a lot going on... but do you really get to enjoy it?
 

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Hmm, good points indeed. I don't usually find that car analogies translate to audition requirements but it is fun! So do I NEED the Vette? No could probably ride my bike, but what I meant to say was its not about "getting to work", at all. It's about the drive, and what that Vette offers to the experience that the Camry just can't deliver. The real waste is when granny buys one just cause she can, but can't figure out how to get past 1/2 throttle.
As far as the chevelle? As an owner of a first gen camaro, and having been to Tokyo, all I can say is take that chevelle and get out of town!
As for the driver, the UM is $100 more. To me that means a 200 dollar driver will cost 300 in the end. Maybe 250 if he can sell the classic used. If he never buys the UM then it doesn't matter.


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Danley used to make the DTS-10 sub in a DIY kit...you can find them used every once in a while. If you want to hide it you can build a platform and put your couch on top of it. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You guys crack me up. I just read the exact thoughts I have been having over the last few days. The Classic shows its max excursion at 100w, which gives almost 108dB from 20Hz up. This driver and 250w amp would cost $240 or $270 if I went with the Bosch 300w. If I go with the UM15 and the 300w Bosch, it would give me 112dB and cost $370...but I would not be using it to it's full potential (in terms of WinISD excursion calculations) In order to get the most out of the UM15 I would need the 500W amp and get 114dB at a cost of $470. Sooooo;

$240 for 108dB
$370 for 112dB
$470 for 114dB

The only subs I have ever owned have been (about) 250w 12"-type units that I have been quite happy with, so I might be blown away by the $240 setup or Left wanting more. I really don't know. I have 2 young kids and work more hours than I should, so I really don't watch many movies/shows, but I really love HT and have been itching to get a decent setup for a few years. That being said, I just want something that sounds good to the average person. I am not expecting to impress an audiophile or test the structural integrity of my house.
 

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Don't forget to factor in the cost of building and finishing the box... I don't think I've ever built a decent box (or a pair) for less than about $100 after it was all done, and there's that marble slab to consider. My approach has always been to spend the smallest amount of money possible to get the result I want, using the cheapest gear worth owning. Considering my experiences with other Dayton products, I'd bet the DCS driver will serve you well. But I don't think you're going to get the best result by going halfway and getting the UM15-22 and NOT stepping up to the bigger amp. The lower sensitivity might cause you to run the amp hard enough to sound bad or do damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Raising an old thread from the dead. So I have had my setup for a while now, and I absolutely LOVE watching movies with my DIY sub (build thread is here https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/169705-first-build-full-marty-15-table.html ). I have one complaint (which I know that many of you could foresee) though, and that is the poor spread of sound throughout the listening area. I ended up putting my sub in the "A" location in the attached picture. When you are on the left side of the couch the sound is amazing and then drops off steeply as you move away from the corner. I am wondering if I would be better off with a smaller (3-4cu.ft.) box in the "A" location and another to the right of the couch using UM15's. I have an iNuke 1000, and would like to just keep that amp. I know that I can use Win isd to figure out the EQ and frequency response to match what I am getting now, but I want to know your gut feelings on switching setups for better sound dispersion. Also, if anyone wants to buy a nice big sub wrapped in a fancy box....
 

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