Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OPTOMA HD2200

PROJECTOR IS 17 FT FROM THE SCREEN

original screen was painted misty evening flat

currently screen is silver screen flat

while the drywall is in good condition and new, there are minor imperfections in the wall due to me expanding the screen 3 times in the past 10 years.

screen frame is .5 inch moulding from home depot spray painted flat black

i am currently re doing my entire theater room as a result having floor dug up to replace sewer line. since im basically re doing my entire theater, i really want my new screen to WOW me. im hoping for the new screen to have more POP than before, but im paranoid about the hot spotting and sheen of the paint showing off the imperfections in the wall.

flat vs eggshell vs satin = major confusion for me. please help! dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Cream and sugar vs black widow?

i am remodeling my basement, and want to know if cream and sugar or black widow will be best for me.

precisely what information do I need to provide to help with my decision?

thanks
dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
screen is 125 inches diag

theater room in basement with recessed lighting. glass block windows are blocked so no sunlight gets into the room

let me know if there is any other information you need to assist me. thanks for your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i had the projector taken down out of fear the carpet people and painters would walk into it. i will not know lap hours for a few weeks, im estimating its around 2500. ive emailed my home theater guy to see if he already calibrated it. this is the information i can give you at this time....

FRONT ROW SEATING: 11 FT FROM SCREEN
SECOND LEVEL SEATING: 18 FT FROM SCREEN
PROJECTOR IS MOUNTED 17 FT FROM THE SCREEN
LUMENS: 1900 ANSI
CONTRAST RATIO 5000:1
THROW RATIO: 1.5 TO 1.8.1
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
i had the projector taken down out of fear the carpet people and painters would walk into it. i will not know lap hours for a few weeks, im estimating its around 2500. ive emailed my home theater guy to see if he already calibrated it. this is the information i can give you at this time....

FRONT ROW SEATING: 11 FT FROM SCREEN
SECOND LEVEL SEATING: 18 FT FROM SCREEN
PROJECTOR IS MOUNTED 17 FT FROM THE SCREEN
LUMENS: 1900 ANSI
CONTRAST RATIO 5000:1
THROW RATIO: 1.5 TO 1.8.1
A belated Welcome to HTS! :wave:

With the data you have provided, and using the projectorcentral calculator, it seems with a 125" 16:9 screen would be getting hit with ~16 fC of light (this assumes a lamp that has lost 25% of it's initial brightness) which would put you at ~12 fc at the dimmest. If you like an image with the blackest blacks and rich, saturated colors then a N8 neutral gray OTS (off the shelf) paint should work well for you. However, I understand your current screen is Behr 'Silver Screen' which if it was mixed correctly would be an N8. If this screen is too dim for you (this is a very subjective area) then I would recommend Glidden Premium interior flat latex paint tinted to Glidden 'Snowfield' which is ~N9. Both the whites and the blacks in the projected image will be brighter than with the N8 'Silver Screen', but it might give you the "pop" you are looking for. The flat finish of this paint would not highlight any but the largest imperfections of your wall.

As to using BW™ or C&S™ Ultra, these mixes would tend to highlight texture differences and other imperfections of the wall so they would have to be fixed before their use. The wall would NOT need to be "baby bottom" smooth like suggested on another DIY screen forum, but the texture DOES need to be the same over the whole screen area. Neither BW™ nor C&S™ Ultra will hot spot and both can be rolled.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
519 Posts
i had the projector taken down out of fear the carpet people and painters would walk into it. i will not know lap hours for a few weeks, im estimating its around 2500. ive emailed my home theater guy to see if he already calibrated it. this is the information i can give you at this time....

FRONT ROW SEATING: 11 FT FROM SCREEN
SECOND LEVEL SEATING: 18 FT FROM SCREEN
PROJECTOR IS MOUNTED 17 FT FROM THE SCREEN
LUMENS: 1900 ANSI
CONTRAST RATIO 5000:1
THROW RATIO: 1.5 TO 1.8.1
If i were you, i would look for a new bulb before deciding what paint to choose. Many people believe that after so many hours the lamps become dimmer and that's it. The lamp's performance affects the whole picture. So, after 2500 hours not only you have a dimmer projector but less contrast as well. As the lamp ages, it's loosing its power and can't maintain the original contrast ratios. That affects equally white and black levels making your image appear flatter and flatter as time goes by.

Furthermore, after so many hours you have (probably) to open it up for a clean treatment. I guess you 'll find a lot of dust and dirt in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for welcoming me to your site, i really like it! ive read on these forums that you dont recommend eggshell for projectors that have low lumens. how many lumens do you need to have in order to be able to get eggshell sheen?

i have 1900 lumens

thanks
dave
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
thanks for welcoming me to your site, i really like it! ive read on these forums that you dont recommend eggshell for projectors that have low lumens. how many lumens do you need to have in order to be able to get eggshell sheen?

i have 1900 lumens

thanks
dave
The problem with paint gloss levels higher than flat or matte is that there is no industry-wide defined gloss standard for what makes an "eggshell" finish or a "satin" finish etc. For example, Glidden Premium paint in eggshell finish will almost certainly hot spot if used to paint a screen, but Valspar Premium paint in eggshell finish won't hot spot and will work fine in most cases.

From my own experience, I don't believe that screen hot spotting has much to do with how many lumens are hitting the screen. Any screen sample that I tested that hot spotted did so at all brightnesses I tested it at, from ~6 fL to ~30 fL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what is the difference between valspar premium and valspar ultra premium? thanks. and which of those would you suggest?

thanks
dave
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
what is the difference between valspar premium and valspar ultra premium? thanks. and which of those would you suggest?

thanks
dave
If you are referring to my last post, the two paints I mentioned were Glidden Premium interior latex flat finish and Valspar Ultra Premium interior latex eggshell finish. The difference is that they are two different brands of paint and they have different gloss levels.

Since you are concerned about seeing wall imperfections due to paint gloss I would suggest using Glidden Premium interior latex in flat finish tinted to Glidden 'Snowfield' (which is a VERY light neutral gray paint) that is available from Home Depot only. Just give the person behind the paint counter at Home Depot the information in bold and they should have no problem making it for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
these are what i found at my local lowes

VALSPAR SIGNATURE HIGH DEF (PAINT AND PRIMER)

VALSPAR ULTRA (PAINT AND PRIMER)

VALSPAR ULTRA PREMIUM

its not that my wall has a lot of imperfections, it is very smooth drywall. the only imperfections are border lines and tiny holes from when i have expanded my screen a few times. ill inspect my screen again and get back with you. i really want something that will POP, which is why Id like to avoid using flat paint again. how much do the flaws actually stand out if i use eggshell. thanks for your assistance.

dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the only reason i bring it up is because throughout the course of my research on this site (which is fantastic) ive read many positive things about valspar ultra premium (eggshell) tinted to snowfield as a great OTS option.
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
these are what i found at my local lowes

VALSPAR SIGNATURE HIGH DEF (PAINT AND PRIMER)

VALSPAR ULTRA (PAINT AND PRIMER)

VALSPAR ULTRA PREMIUM

its not that my wall has a lot of imperfections, it is very smooth drywall. the only imperfections are border lines and tiny holes from when i have expanded my screen a few times. ill inspect my screen again and get back with you. i really want something that will POP, which is why Id like to avoid using flat paint again. how much do the flaws actually stand out if i use eggshell. thanks for your assistance.

The only reason i bring it up is because throughout the course of my research on this site (which is fantastic) ive read many positive things about valspar ultra premium (eggshell) tinted to snowfield as a great OTS option.

dave
OK, now I understand.

The Valspar Signature line is supposed to be Valspar's best paint, but we have done very little testing of that paint since the less expensive Valspar paints have done a great job for painting screens.

The Valspar Ultra Premium is what we have based all our screen mixes on, but Valspar is phasing this out and replacing it with Valspar Ultra. If you can get this paint we do recommend it over the newer Valspar Ultra simply because we know the performance of this paint.

Valspar Ultra is the replacement for Valspar Ultra Premium and the finish that used to be called "flat enamel" in the older paint is now called "super flat". Use this paint if you can't get the older Valspar Ultra Premium.

I know I'm repeating myself, but there is no such thing as a true "paint and primer in one" paint. Primer is chemically different than paint and does a different job. Do NOT trust a "paint + primer" paint to do a good job as a primer, even the most inexpensive primer is better that one of these "do everything" paints when a primer is called for.

The more gloss a paint has the more screen surface imperfections and painting mistakes will show up. The gloss level increases in the Valspar Ultra line from flat to super flat to eggshell. In the Valspar Ultra Line it goes from flat to flat enamel to eggshell. I'm not sure of the gloss names for the Valspar Signature line.

If you can roll or spray the paint on without leaving roller marks or runs or sags AND the wall has minimal surface imperfections then Valspar Ultra or Valspar Ultra Premium in eggshell finish tinted to Glidden 'Snowfield" would work well without hot spotting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
which style of roller should i use? i have seen both 3/16 and 1/4 naps mentioned

the 3/16 is foam and the 1/4 is mohair. sorry if i seem ocd and annoying, but i feel like ive found the right site for home theater perfectionists.

dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
which style of roller should i use? i have seen both 3/16 and 1/4 naps mentioned

the 3/16 is foam and the 1/4 is mohair. sorry if i seem ocd and annoying, but i feel like ive found the right site for home theater perfectionists.

dave
The foam roller for me was horrible! The 1/4 mohair was a dream to roll my new screen. It holds much more paint and lets you finish up your rows without having to refill all the time your roller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
The foam roller for me was horrible! The 1/4 mohair was a dream to roll my new screen. It holds much more paint and lets you finish up your rows without having to refill all the time your roller.
I did 4 hands with the foam roller and i still had streaks. On the first hand with the 1/4 mohair roller, and the screen was perfect.
 

·
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
·
3,772 Posts
which style of roller should i use? i have seen both 3/16 and 1/4 naps mentioned

the 3/16 is foam and the 1/4 is mohair. sorry if i seem ocd and annoying, but i feel like ive found the right site for home theater perfectionists.

dave
In theory the shorter the nap the less texture the paint layer will have, but from what I have been reading lately it seems that the 3/16" nap rollers may not carry enough paint leading to "dry rolling" and overworking the paint, so the 1/4" nap rollers do a better job when painting screens.

Don't use a foam roller of any kind to paint a screen. They introduce air bubbles into the paint which usually causes problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thanks guys, the painter who hired for repainting theater (and screen) also commented that the foam would lead to air bubbles.

1/4 nap mohair is the winner.

thanks
dc
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top