Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is my DIYSG 1299 build:
Ive wanted these speakers for a long time but never pulled the trigger. When I bought the speakers I currently have, I had them made into a tower speaker. They were originally bookshelf speakers from Elemental Designs. They have one Eminence Kappa Pro 12A and a B&C De250 Compression driver. When I ordered these, me and the ED guy threw around the idea of doing double 12 inch woofers. The price increase wasnt worth it at the time. Fast forward to now and I finally pulled the trigger on the 1299s!

My first issues before ordering were they going to be ported vs sealed, how would I finish them, and the big question: Will I keep the original baffle design or move the top woofer down which makes the waveguide sit up top. After playing around in winisd, I decided ported is the way to go. Also speaking to fellow 1299 owners that went sealed, they regretted it. If I ever want to use them without subs, I can. The plan right now is to prime and paint them with a light texture. Not real sure about duratex, but not ruling it out as of yet. As far as the baffle goes, I might keep the original design, but have a slot port at the bottom. I will have to extend the baffles 5 inches to accomplish this. Baffle is 40 inches tall.

I will post pics of graphs, unpacking, building etc..as we go.


Questions I had which Ill show pics and graphs when I first started:

1. I want to build them ported mainly because everyone I have spoken with that built them ported, loves them, and the sealed guys regret it. Maybe I didn't speak to enough owners yet. Ported it is!

2. I like the look of the towers Kyle built by moving the woofer, but if that is going to cause me issues, I'm out. I want the speaker to sound like it should, So... on that thought brings this:
If i still want to build them ported and keep the ORIGINAL baffle layout, can i just add the 5 inches or so that he did to the bottom of the speaker and do the slot port? I don't care how big the port is, it just looks better to me. As far as the tune, I'm fine with 40 or more. They don't have to dig deep. I have dual 18 subs for that. But like to very occasionally listen to music.
The "plan" is to go ported and tune them to roughly44-45hz. Played with this in Winisd.
If I keep the original design, build the slot port, will the wave guide be ok sounding since I'm not sure where it falls compared to being seated. My seated reclined ear height is 32"-33" from floor, My seated ear height not reclined is 36"-37" from floor. (This might not be an issue now, since I have spoken with Ryan the designer of the 1299s and verified it will be ok to move the top woofer down. The waveguide might be moved up top, but Im still thinking keeping the original design.)

3: Will building the left and right speakers ported still match up with the sealed center? Or should be port the center(I can go wider).

After speaking to a buddy about this, he said "if you are making the mains and surrounds ported, why not port the center also" Thats all I needed to hear!

4: Im purchasing 5 total kits, Left, Right, Center, L&R surrounds. If im cutting the wood, Im thinking it will be just as easy to make everything the same, so why not build the surrounds the same as the fronts? Definately going the same on fronts and surrounds unless something changes my mind before cutting wood.

My speakers:
174169

Life of Bliss's design where he moved the top woofer down to the bottom, making the waveguide sit up top.
Annotation 2020-05-21 090955.jpg

174171
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Going over the cutlist. I hope I did this correctly. Feel free to check my measurements. One question, Should I put the bottom and top "inside the other pieces? Wasnt sure it mattered. I think not having a seam all the way around the top would be easier to finish later. The other measurements are a different cutlist with the top and bottoms inside the box. Let me know what you guys think.

Boxes are 45 tall x 16 deep x 14.75 wide .75 thickness material. I think my measurements are correct:

Baffle is 14.75 x 45(will be extended 5 inches) This box will be 4.83648cuft total.

sides 44.25 tall x 15.25 OR 45 tall x 15.25 deep
tops 16 x 14.75 OR top 13.25x 14.5
bottoms 13.25 x 14.5
backs 44.25 tall x 13.25 OR 45 tall x 13.25 deep
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Final box with center channel. Played around with different length ports. Didnt want to cut the port lengths something odd like 6.18 etc, so just made them 4, 5, or 6 inches.
The center channel is in RED. The main speakers are grey and purple with different ports lengths. These are all within 1 db or less of each other.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Subscribed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Wondering if anyone has experiences with any of these. Im debating on just going with binding posts or terminal cups. Speakon is a distance second.

View attachment 174181 View attachment 174175 View attachment 174176 View attachment 174177 View attachment 174178
View attachment 174179 View attachment 174180
I have used the Dayton posts and the round terminal cup with the square face before. The Dayton posts are the easiest by far to install. However with that said all my projects that will accomodate them will get speakons going forward. Just too many benefits that outweigh the size of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Oops I forgot to mention that these "uxcell 4 pin speakon panel connectors" are much easier to work with that the small square ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Made a new piece for the tv stand which will have the tv "floating" above the center channel. I made one a while back for my original speakers, but it is going to be too short for the 1299 center at 14.75. This one was made 52 inches tall in order for the tv to be hung with final height being above the 1299 center. The 1299 center is quite a bit wider also, which will make the tv stand look not so big compared to the speaker. Also the width of the 1299 will cover up the 1x6s on final assembly.

I also "beefed" it up a tad by gluing and sandwiching two 1x6 pine together. I then kreg jigged the two center pieces to the side pieces along with glue. Sanded everything down from 150,220,400 then applied a coat of oil based Coventry wood sealer. After letting that dry, applied two coats of Behr Ultra interior satin "mouse ears" black. These are pics this morning of it drying.

(yes that is my current shop setup, which is not really a shop, but a cart garage. Hence the reason for finally building a metal shop in my backyard 30x30 with 15x30 patio)




 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top