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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
After 4 coats on mdf with a smooth foam roller. Roller grade duratex. Added a tad bit of water to the last coat. It covers well, but YES it is hard to make sure no roller marks. If you basically lay the roller on the surface and backroll with the roller just sitting on the surface. This is a test piece of mdf to see what type of finish Im going with. The texture is very very minimal by using a smooth foam roller. Next I will use the roller, sand with 400 grit to knock down the high spots, and roll again.



 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Test two: Coventry oil based wood sealer/primer. (Very good product for bare wood) After this dries, going with mouse ears black in satin with a foam roller to have just a hint of texture. On a side note, I played around with another test panel and duratex. Applied a light coat, then sanded with 400 grit, then recoated. Roller marks are very hard to minimize with this stuff. It does seal the edge of mdf very well though.




 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
How did the Duratex handle being sanded and how long did you wait before sanding it?
I only waited maybe 45 minutes. It sanded extremely well. I have been in contact with the owner/inventor's daughter and talking back and forth about the product. It dries very hard. The 4 light coats I put on yesterday dried hard. I definately want to use it, but not unitl I figure out how to keep the roller marks out. On these small test panels its easy, but a big cabinet, I could see a issue.
 

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A word of advice about Duratex drying times. Even though it may dry hard overnight and handling is okay at that point do NOT stack anything on top or leave the entire bottom in contact with another hard surface and especially not another surface painted with Duratex.

I learned my lesson from stacking my HTM12's. Keep in mind I stacked them overnight 2 WEEKS after they were painted.
Other people have reported similar issues well.
 

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Those crossovers came out nice as h3ll!
 

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I have right angle speakons on my Rockville SPG88's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Those crossovers came out nice as h3ll!
Thanks to Matt Grant. He does all the crossovers for DIYSG.

I have right angle speakons on my Rockville SPG88's.
I just got the right angle connectors in, so Ill be playing around with those and making them look "fancy".

My initial idea was to go 14 gauge 4 conductor and twist them on both ends and instead of cable pants, make "skirts"

174211
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just too hard to make duratex look really good rolling it. Granted I was using a fine finish foam roller and it was inky 4 inches. I think a larger one would definitely work better at evening the final finish out.

Spray grade rolled vs roller grade rolled vs behr latex rolled. All thinned and unthinned.

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Which one is the streaky one on the 2nd row left side?

This one looks good to me.
View attachment 174236 View attachment 174236
The one you have in your pic was rolled with foam roller oil wood sealer and behr mouse ears. The streaky on next to it in left was one I did not like. I brushed the oil sealer on but didnt sand it lightly to remove brush strokes. Then rolled latex on. Beulah stokes showed through so i redid it with rolling twice in right which has a tad bit of texture/orange peel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I have my boxes at 45x16x14.75 which is 4.836 cubic feet. How much would I be losing after woofers, seos horn, mids, and two window braces. Of course lining them with denim 1.5 inch insulation and the crossover board.

the displacement of the woofers is .158 total, and mids .028 total.

My box is 4.836 cubic foot as of now. Just wondering if I will be down to around 4ish or below, or higher.

thanks in advance.
 

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DIY would be the theme here. Love the dedicated light controlled theater room.
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@nezff what was the delay? If I'm reading the posts right the wood was cut back in Sep 2020.
 
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