Wayne,Typically we don't like to see such severe equalizing, as it costs a lot of headroom. Whether or not its a bad thing ultimately depends on your sub system, though. For instance, if you're running a little Sony 8" sub, then this is not going to work well at all. But if you have say, four 18" subs driven by a few thousand watts of pro amplifier power, then it's fine. A couple of extreme examples, but hopefully you get what I mean.
Is there another location you can try the sub at that will get you a better baseline reading, something that can hopefully be equalized in a 15 dB or so window?
Also, if you used 1/6-octave smoothing based on my hard-knee house curve article, that's mainly to help prevent over-equalizing when using manual filters. For graphs posted, though, we prefer to see unsmoothed graphs.
Well, doesn't look appreciably different from the original graoph, so unless you're seeing some other benefit at this location, feel free to move it back.I also took Wayne's advice and moved the sub.
...you may find some useful information at this post.When you're talking about severe eq were you referring to the cuts or the gains, or both? I know that gains are not recommended here, but based on my measurements, I think it is a dip rather than a null.
The level was actually a lot lower than that. I didn't reset the level after making numerous adjustments and moving the sub. Can you recommend a starting house curve based on the charts provided. I'm thinking 0 at 32, and 6 at 80. Also what should the slope of the house curve be? There is a lot of info to digest in a short period of time.Ninety-six dB - are you trying to blow up that sub?
Well, doesn't look appreciably different from the original graoph, so unless you're seeing some other benefit at this location, feel free to move it back.
Actually, the "shape' of your response is such that it would "play right into the hands" of a house curve. IOW, the house cuve will ultimatly require less severe boosts and cuts than it takes to get flat response.
On that subject...
...you may find some useful information at this post.
I'm sure you mean 6 at 32 and 0 at 80........I'm thinking 0 at 32, and 6 at 80
You've already chosen the slope by nature of the 6dB rise from 80Hz. Just check the log interpolation box and it will be fine.what should the slope of the house curve be?
Yes, there's no brick wall.if I do a cut at 20hz with a pretty wide bandwith, will the BFD equalize down to 10hz?
Yes that what I meant.I'm sure you mean 6 at 32 and 0 at 80........
Bad question...I should have asked what the slope should be for the subwoofer crossover slope. Thanks.You've already chosen the slope by nature of the 6dB rise from 80Hz. Just check the log interpolation box and it will be fine.
Thanks for the advice... I did read it...whether I fully understand it at this point is a different question. I was hoping to take some shortcuts as my hours of testing is driving my wife and my infant crazy!:wits-end: And after several hours of exhaustive testing...critical listening can be difficult.Iove,
It is very important that you read Wayne's post and understand it. In addition, make sure you follow the steps he mentions on measuring a house curve. No one can suggest an accurate house curve to you. Every room is different and needs to be measured/treated that way. In Wayne's post, he talks about the house curve that worked for his room. When I set-up my house curve, the slope/measurement results were totally different. My room is probably 1/2 the size of Wayne's example. Follow the steps and you will get the best sound. Ultimately it comes down to what sounds good to you. You have to listen to it, not us. Take your time and ask questions. Invest the time and you will reap the benefits. We are here to help. :bigsmile: