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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to get inputs on my 3 hour project this afternoon. I was told not to chase small bumps and valleys so this is what I came up with.

Also, smoothing was set to 1/6 for both charts. Thanks in advance!
 

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The only reason why I ask is that I had to use -17 and -18 cuts and +6 boost to achieve that. Also, how do I deal with the peaks above 80 as I use 80hz as the crossover.
 

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Typically we don't like to see such severe equalizing, as it costs a lot of headroom. Whether or not its a bad thing ultimately depends on your sub system, though. For instance, if you're running a little Sony 8" sub, then this is not going to work well at all. But if you have say, four 18" subs driven by a few thousand watts of pro amplifier power, then it's fine. A couple of extreme examples, but hopefully you get what I mean.

Is there another location you can try the sub at that will get you a better baseline reading, something that can hopefully be equalized in a 15 dB or so window?

Also, if you used 1/6-octave smoothing based on my hard-knee house curve article, that's mainly to help prevent over-equalizing when using manual filters. For graphs posted, though, we prefer to see unsmoothed graphs.

Regards,
Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Typically we don't like to see such severe equalizing, as it costs a lot of headroom. Whether or not its a bad thing ultimately depends on your sub system, though. For instance, if you're running a little Sony 8" sub, then this is not going to work well at all. But if you have say, four 18" subs driven by a few thousand watts of pro amplifier power, then it's fine. A couple of extreme examples, but hopefully you get what I mean.

Is there another location you can try the sub at that will get you a better baseline reading, something that can hopefully be equalized in a 15 dB or so window?

Also, if you used 1/6-octave smoothing based on my hard-knee house curve article, that's mainly to help prevent over-equalizing when using manual filters. For graphs posted, though, we prefer to see unsmoothed graphs.

Regards,
Wayne
Wayne,

thanks for your input. I've re-attached the plots that are not smoothed. When you're talking about severe eq were you referring to the cuts or the gains, or both? I know that gains are not recommended here, but based on my measurements, I think it is a dip rather than a null. The sub I have is the ML Descenti.

I haven't even gotten to the house curve yet as I was struggling to smooth out the response. My system was previously calibrated professionally, but I can't afford it every time I switch out the gear. The calibrator used both gains and cuts.

I was hoping to avoid moving the sub as the only other feasible spot would be as a stand to prop up my center channel.
 

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Some people enjoy a flat response, but not many.

Do you feel you have enough bass in your music and HT?

brucek
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I actually could use a tad bit more bass, but not a whole lot more. I also took Wayne's advice and moved the sub. Now the max cut is -11 vs. -17, but I still had to do a +7 boost. I've attached the new before and after plots. With the new setup, I feel that a bit more bass is needed. My sub has a cut centered at 50 which I could use to lower the level after 35 to mimic a house curve. But the last plot was the best I can do to flatten out the response.
 

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Ninety-six dB - are you trying to blow up that sub?

I also took Wayne's advice and moved the sub.
Well, doesn't look appreciably different from the original graoph, so unless you're seeing some other benefit at this location, feel free to move it back. :D

Actually, the "shape' of your response is such that it would "play right into the hands" of a house curve. IOW, the house cuve will ultimatly require less severe boosts and cuts than it takes to get flat response.

On that subject...
When you're talking about severe eq were you referring to the cuts or the gains, or both? I know that gains are not recommended here, but based on my measurements, I think it is a dip rather than a null.
...you may find some useful information at this post.

Regards,
Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ninety-six dB - are you trying to blow up that sub?


Well, doesn't look appreciably different from the original graoph, so unless you're seeing some other benefit at this location, feel free to move it back. :D

Actually, the "shape' of your response is such that it would "play right into the hands" of a house curve. IOW, the house cuve will ultimatly require less severe boosts and cuts than it takes to get flat response.

On that subject...

...you may find some useful information at this post.

Regards,
Wayne
The level was actually a lot lower than that. I didn't reset the level after making numerous adjustments and moving the sub. Can you recommend a starting house curve based on the charts provided. I'm thinking 0 at 32, and 6 at 80. Also what should the slope of the house curve be? There is a lot of info to digest in a short period of time.

The only difference from the location was less of a cut needed to flatten from the range from 20 - 32 hz. Also, if I do a cut at 20hz with a pretty wide bandwith, will the BFD equalize down to 10hz? I seem to have a bump at 17hz. Thanks and I appreciate all input!
 

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I'm thinking 0 at 32, and 6 at 80
I'm sure you mean 6 at 32 and 0 at 80........

what should the slope of the house curve be?
You've already chosen the slope by nature of the 6dB rise from 80Hz. Just check the log interpolation box and it will be fine.

if I do a cut at 20hz with a pretty wide bandwith, will the BFD equalize down to 10hz?
Yes, there's no brick wall.

brucek
 

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Iove,

It is very important that you read Wayne's post and understand it. In addition, make sure you follow the steps he mentions on measuring a house curve. No one can suggest an accurate house curve to you. Every room is different and needs to be measured/treated that way. In Wayne's post, he talks about the house curve that worked for his room. When I set-up my house curve, the slope/measurement results were totally different. My room is probably 1/2 the size of Wayne's example. Follow the steps and you will get the best sound. Ultimately it comes down to what sounds good to you. You have to listen to it, not us. Take your time and ask questions. Invest the time and you will reap the benefits. We are here to help. :bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Iove,

It is very important that you read Wayne's post and understand it. In addition, make sure you follow the steps he mentions on measuring a house curve. No one can suggest an accurate house curve to you. Every room is different and needs to be measured/treated that way. In Wayne's post, he talks about the house curve that worked for his room. When I set-up my house curve, the slope/measurement results were totally different. My room is probably 1/2 the size of Wayne's example. Follow the steps and you will get the best sound. Ultimately it comes down to what sounds good to you. You have to listen to it, not us. Take your time and ask questions. Invest the time and you will reap the benefits. We are here to help. :bigsmile:
Thanks for the advice... I did read it...whether I fully understand it at this point is a different question. I was hoping to take some shortcuts as my hours of testing is driving my wife and my infant crazy!:wits-end: And after several hours of exhaustive testing...critical listening can be difficult.
 

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REW offers white noise and pink noise, plus periodic pink and white noise suitable for RTA and Spectrum analyzer respectively.

brucek
 
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