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Discussion Starter #21
Yes, 5x5 sheets, PL, Kreg screws. I thought that 4x8 sheets would save some material, but since there is already a cut sheet for 5x5, I'll just stick to the plans. Is there a cut sheet for 4x8 that you know of?

edit - just ordered it all for Thursday. The 5x5 sheets are quite a bit cheaper than the 4x8 per sq ft, so the waste vs. price should be pretty close between the two, if not cheaper for the 5x5 in the end
 

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No cut sheet that I can think of. I made one for my self a while back but other things got in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I picked up some really nice pieces of Baltic birch today and cut them in to little pieces with the help of my good friend and fellow Shackster Novice01. Past experience has taught me to make the outer panels a skosh larger than finished size so I can use a flush trim bit on the router for that perfect edge. Luckily I remembered that before I started cutting, which almost never happens. Anyways, it was a great start and I think I will get these finished in about a month if I take my time. Here are a couple of pics, because it didn't happen without pics. The 45"x45" panels are not pictured. The stack leaning against the boat are all the for the horn path for one sub. The other stack is just out of the photo to the left.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have 4 of these drawn out, then I realized that I mis-measured the same corner by 1/4". Several of the numbers on the PDF were overlapped, so I misread the measurement. I think the rest are on target.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
A little more progress today on the first two panels. Cut the hole for the drivers - could have been 1/8-1/4" tighter, but it'll work. TC Sounds recommended cutout is a little too big for a front mount driver.













I used this 1/8" roundover to help protect the surround when I mount the driver to the baffle later.






I pulled the glass out of our living room table so I could center the driver for marking the holes.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
I use a punch to mark the holes for the 10/24 1.5" bolts and t-nuts. I use a 3/4 paddle bit to start the hole, but it makes it convex. Then I make a pilot hole for the bolt with 1/8" bit.





Then I use the 3/4" forstner bit to make the hole nice and flat to seat the t-nut. I don't have a drill-press, so the paddle bit happens first so the forster bit doesn't move on me. I enlarge the hole again with a 1/4" bit for the t-nut.





One too many beers and I started cutting holes for the t-nuts on the wrong side. Filled it in with some Bondo. derpy-derp

 

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Discussion Starter #27
The Kreg jig is awesome. Get one if you don't have one and you like building speakers.





I'm tacking in the rest of the panels with a brad nailer to hold them in place while I screw in the panels. These first ones turned out OK, but PL gets pretty smeary and the panels move about 1/16" when the Kreg screws are tightened in. I like it to be perfect, so smears just won't do.





 

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Discussion Starter #28
The T-nuts hung over the edge so I adjusted those with the angle grinder and abrasive wheel. There was still plenty of room for all 3 prongs to contact the baffle. My mess on the panel at the top show my confusion of where the mark was supposed to go.









The first few braces were tricky, but I measure 50x and cut once, so they were a perfect fit. I made a spacer to hold the braces to the correct height which saves quite a bit of time not having to measure each one. There are a LOT of braces in these things!

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Me too guys. I hope to have them at least enclosed and ready to prep for paint tomorrow. Novice01 gets to come help me move them :)
 

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Horns provide better coupling of the driver to the air by converting high pressure variations with small displacement in the throat into a low pressure variation with a large displacement at the exit.

(answer provided with a little help from wiki :R)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
They look really good, Doug. Horns always look pretty cool when they're assembled down to the last panel so you can see the guts. It always gets me wondering how the compression (or whatever magic they use) happens.
I hate to cover up all that work never be seen again to end up with an ugly box. I have lots of photos I can refer to in this build log if I ever need a trip down memory lane.

Horns provide better coupling of the driver to the air by converting high pressure variations with small displacement in the throat into a low pressure variation with a large displacement at the exit.

(answer provided with a little help from wiki :R)
Braaaaaaains!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I measured all of the holes for the bolts and prepped the areas for the t-nuts just like I did for the baffle - but not as deep since there is only 3/8" to work with. I like to marry the bolt and t-nut just to make sure there is a match





The bolt in the t-nut makes a nice way to hold it for applying the glue - Gorrilla glue or epoxy, whatever





I hammer the t-nut in from the head of the bolt so that it sits flat with the baffle right after I apply the glue so that the glue doesn't drip though the pilot hole. I flip it all over and use a washer and pull it together to get the t-nut to grip.

 

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It's coming along nicely! Looks very good so far, I wish I had wood working skills like that. Lol, and it's awesome that your wife is participating. My wife wants nothing to do with my audio equipment.
 
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