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Discussion Starter #1
I have purchased a Stereo Integrity 15" woofer and a Dayton SA-1000 sub amp to build a MartyCube.

I lack the skills to do it myself and have been trying to figure out a time to get to a friends house in Evansville to build one thats downfiring, but it may not work out just due to lots of scheduling issues.

I know I can buy a flatpacks at AVSForum, but they are more than the DIYSoundgroup ones (link below) that are basically the same design. However both are front firing.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1/15-cube/cube15.html

I am looking for suggestions on spikes/feet to use to MAKE the DIYSoundgroup option downfiring (have kid, dont want her to poke sub cone, or put stuff in port).

Someone recommended to me that I have 3.5" of clearence for the sub from the ground, but I dont know if I have to have that much, or could get by with less.

Thoughts much appreciated.
 

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I have purchased a Stereo Integrity 15" woofer and a Dayton SA-1000 sub amp to build a MartyCube.

I lack the skills to do it myself and have been trying to figure out a time to get to a friends house in Evansville to build one thats downfiring, but it may not work out just due to lots of scheduling issues.

I know I can buy a flatpacks at AVSForum, but they are more than the DIYSoundgroup ones (link below) that are basically the same design. However both are front firing.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1/15-cube/cube15.html

I am looking for suggestions on spikes/feet to use to MAKE the DIYSoundgroup option downfiring (have kid, dont want her to poke sub cone, or put stuff in port).

Someone recommended to me that I have 3.5" of clearence for the sub from the ground, but I dont know if I have to have that much, or could get by with less.

Thoughts much appreciated.
I have made spiked feet in the past from a piece of threaded rod with a nut on it. What I did was get some 1/4 20 thread rod, and cut it to the desired length (including the amount it needs to go in the threaded insert). Once you have that done you grind a point on one end of the threaded rod. The last step is to get some Locktite and put it on the threaded rod where you want the nut to be at. You don't need much on there and if you are careful you can put 2 nuts on the threaded rod (to jam the one with locktite. You can also just use 2 nuts jammed together but I think it is nicer with just one nut with locktite. If you don't want to scratch your floors with the spikes you can just put a penny under each spike. :T
 

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I used hurricane nuts on the back side of the baffle. For cheap you can buy a curtain rod dowel and cut to length then drill through the center and install the right length bolts up through them. Square 2x2 or aluminum or whatever will work. Definitely do a base plate.
 

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I used hurricane nuts on the back side of the baffle. For cheap you can buy a curtain rod dowel and cut to length then drill through the center and install the right length bolts up through them. Square 2x2 or aluminum or whatever will work. Definitely do a base plate.
:T
Or you can just buy 1/4 20 bolts the length you want for legs and screw them in to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The other issue you are going to face with a down-firing sub is the possibility that it will walk around unless you include a baseplate like they use for sonosubs.
You think it might walk around even with over 100 lbs of weight bearing down on it?

The original concept was to copy this guys design exactly, but like I said trying to find time to build it is near impossible (been trying since March of this year :yikes:)





According to him that sub didnt walk around at all in his setup.

My hope was since this was basically the same design and same weight give or take, it wouldn't walk around either.
 

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You could also just get the legs they use for couches and attach them to the bottom of the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That might dissuade it. :T
Gotcha. I've gotten my 76lb eD A2-300 to jump a little, but its ~25lbs lighter than this thing will be. Thought the weight might keep it attached to the floor.

Plus I wont be cranking it that loud, though the sub is measured in WinISD to hit about 114 db @ 20hz @ 1 m. Thats a far cry from the 86 db @ 18hz @ 1m from my eD sub lol.....

Especially since I sit about 10 feet back from the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Keep us posted once you have finished it. With that weight, if it did move, spikes would certainly damage most floors.
Will do. Thankfully I am on carpet :T:whistling:

My goal is to have lots of this :hsd: :bigsmile:
 
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