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I have recently started building a No-Budget Home Theater in my basement. There's no money available to fund this project other than what I can sneak between the lines of the monthly credit card bill. I've done ok so far...

This weekend, I was able to bring home a pair of Electro-Voice passive theater subs (model TL606DW), which each have two EV DL-15W 15" drivers. I'm planning to hide one of these beasts behind my HT stage. The sound from the speaker is nice even at low power, although the bass doesn't extend below 40Hz, and the output is tame due to my current amp. The speaker is rated at 4 Ohms, with each 8 Ohm driver hooked-up in parallel inside the box.

I'm powering the sub with a single channel of a old 100w/channel 5.1 amp (Yamaha HTR-5460), so I currently only have 100w to feed to the beast. So my question: If I could modify the speaker, would it provide more powerful low-end if I could supply 100w to each driver separately? I guess the real question is, is 2 x 100w at 8 Ohms > 1 x 100w at 4 Ohms? Would this modification give me more punch?

Any advice?
--
buck
 

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yes, 2x100 watts at 8 ohms will be louder then 1x110 watts at 4 ohms. The question is what is the amp really putting out at those resistances. the receiver is not rated for 4 ohm operation, so if i were you i would stop hooking it up at 4 ohms, but at 8 ohms they claim 100 watts rms per channel. Chances are that if you hook them up so one sub per channel it will be a good amount louder, although dont get your hopes up as it may not be much louder, all depends on how the receiver is reacting to the low ohm input and what it is actually putting out. I would give it a try just to see. as a temp test just run the wires out the ports so you dont have to modifiy anything. that way if its not any better then just hook them up the way they were.

BUT you need to check the receiver and settings as it may be the reason its cutting the sub 40hz sounds. some filter setting could be cutting it.

It wouldent be too hard to do, just connect them to the left and right front outputs then have a Y adapter to take the signal and send it to both inputs. Or if there is a mono option that would work great too so no splitting is required.
 
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