So are there any more powerful options than the EP-2500 for the same price (brand new) approx?
For subwoofer duties would'int we want to be looking at the 20hz - 20khz rating which is 650wattsWell, the spec says 750 watts into 4 ohms (which is the resultant Znom of the dual 2 ohm coil driver wired in series). So the one amp in stereo would do both boxes. This doesn't seem like too bad an amp..... good bang for the bucks. Others would cost much more.
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The 650 watt rating is defining the bandwidth over which the total harmonic distortion is at 0.1%For subwoofer duties would'nt we want to be looking at the 20hz - 20khz rating which is 650watts instead of the 1khz rating?
So, 1000/2 = 500 watts would be fine with you? Let me recommend the EP2500 that can produce 650 watts per channel with 0.1% THD from 20Hz to 20KHz.....Indeed, the minimum amp. real RMS power will be 1000 W....The question is one for each box or one for both.
No, it seems that I was not clear.... sorry!So, 1000/2 = 500 watts would be fine with you? Let me recommend the EP2500 that can produce 650 watts per channel with 0.1% THD from 20Hz to 20KHz.....
Well, 220V * 15A fuse (I have checked) = 3300 W /line from the wall... Is a power factor required to be applied?4000 watts. Do you have that much power available in wall receptacles?
Thank you Paul!!:T I will brace for sure!! As well as use either available insulation materialThe most common reason is to alter the Q of the cabinet. I don't think you're going to need that for this enclosure, as you seem to be letting the cabinet be the size it needs to be. Another reason is to catch & kill high frequencies that might want to escape via the port. Fiberglass is supposed to be one of the better materials for stuffing, but I hate working with it. I prefer polyfill, as it is supposed to be as good as fiberglass and is a lot easier to wok with. I get mine at W*lmart. For a large enclosure such as this you might get "Batting", basically polyfill that will attach nicely to the walls of the cabinet.
One thing to think about with bracing (other than the obvious, strength) using the bracing to discourage standing waves. In a large cabinet such as this you might consider putting your braces assymetrically located, using wider (1"x4" or 1"x6") braces and puting them at angles to the sides of the cabinet.