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Discussion Starter #1
Need to buy paint to get started on my wall, not sure what to get.

For color, deciding between SW 6260 Unique Gray and SW 7071 Gray Screen. Not sure if I should go with Duration Matte, or ProClassic Satin. Ive seen both be recommended, for white anyway. Will be using Kilz 2 primer, based off what Ive seen recommended unless another would be better.

There are windows to the left of the screen, and there will be moderate lighting in the room when not watching a movie. For movies, the room can be basically black.


Projector is an Epson HC 2000. From reviews for the 2030 and what I can find for the 2000, Im guess Lumens should be 1200-1300 in natural/cinema ECO mode 2D. I do watch 3D Blu-Rays as well, not sure how much its boosted for that. 110" screen area, projector ~10ft away.


Could also use help in picking between the Matte and Satin for the wall paint, which will be SW 6565 Grandeur Plum.


Couple pics on my plain white wall as is.


Full light, open curtains Netflix viewing,



Only curtains open, game playing,



Dark room movie viewing,
 

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Hi Cecil! Welcome to HTS! :wave:

There really isn't that much difference between SW 'Unique Gray' and 'Gray Screen'. In my personal experience, the 'Unique Gray' was more color-neutral.

Kilz 2 primer is fine.

If you were going to watch mostly 2D material I would go with the SW Matte Duration, but since you are going to be watching 3D, which robs a lot of image brightness, I would go with the Satin ProClassic.

The main reason we are recommending the matte paint over the satin is that SW's Satin finish is very close to causing some mild hot spotting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Cecil! Welcome to HTS! :wave:

There really isn't that much difference between SW 'Unique Gray' and 'Gray Screen'. In my personal experience, the 'Unique Gray' was more color-neutral.

Kilz 2 primer is fine.

If you were going to watch mostly 2D material I would go with the SW Matte Duration, but since you are going to be watching 3D, which robs a lot of image brightness, I would go with the Satin ProClassic.

The main reason we are recommending the matte paint over the satin is that SW's Satin finish is very close to causing some mild hot spotting.
How much does a quart of each cost (doesn't show on the website)? Maybe just mix them 50/50?
3D content is becoming sparse, so its not a huge priority. Id rather no hot spotting and slightly dimmer 3D I think. Also, I was thinking of doing the ceiling in the same gray as the screen so I could just get a gallon of the same thing, instead of spending more on two different kinds.

Which kind of paint would do better during the day for Netflix/TV and games?
 

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How much does a quart of each cost (doesn't show on the website)? Maybe just mix them 50/50?
I think a quart of either the Duration or ProClassic costs something like $20, but many times SW has coupons that cut the retail price anywhere from 20% to 40% off retail. Right now they are having a 30% discount from March 9th to the 31st.

3D content is becoming sparse, so its not a huge priority. Id rather no hot spotting and slightly dimmer 3D I think. Also, I was thinking of doing the ceiling in the same gray as the screen so I could just get a gallon of the same thing, instead of spending more on two different kinds.

Which kind of paint would do better during the day for Netflix/TV and games?
The ProClassic has a bit more gloss to it so it would have a touch more gain than a matte paint, but to be sure of not getting any hot spotting I'd go with Duration in matte finish.

Going with a gray screen will help maintain black levels when the screen must deal with ambient lighting, but the best way to get a better image is to limit the ambient light. A gray screen can only help so much before the whites start becoming noticeably dimmer. Just when that happens is very subjective.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice.

Ive never bought or used rollers before. Do you have a link or model that you suggest? Ive seen two roller methods (one normal kind, one foam for spreading/smoothing) and single. What would work best for the paint and primer Im getting?

How many roller tips would I need for a 16'x8' foot wall, primer, and 2-3 different kinds of paint (thinking of doing a gold pin stripe 6" from the ceiling and the baseboards in gold too)?
 

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Thanks for the advice.

Ive never bought or used rollers before. Do you have a link or model that you suggest? Ive seen two roller methods (one normal kind, one foam for spreading/smoothing) and single. What would work best for the paint and primer Im getting?

How many roller tips would I need for a 16'x8' foot wall, primer, and 2-3 different kinds of paint (thinking of doing a gold pin stripe 6" from the ceiling and the baseboards in gold too)?
Rolling paint is one of my weak spots because I normally spray paint. My understanding is that the expensive rollers and roller covers are worth investing in to get a good surface finish. I don't know any brand names to suggest to you. As for the roller covers use a 1/4" or 3/16" nap roller cover as they will leave a smoother surface to the paint. My understanding is not to use foam rollers because they trap air in them that can cause tiny air bubbles to get in the paint which can degrade the final finish for screen usage.

I would use a different roller cover for each type of paint.

Other folks on this forum have far more roller experience than I do and I hope they chime in here with some advice for you.
 

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I thought a longer roller size would cause uneven pressure, which would cause uneven lines?
When I roll screens, I use only the needed pressure to keep the roller touching the screen and let the nap do it's thing (1/4"). I found too much pressure pushes more paint to the edges of the roller, and that's where I get the roller marks (more noticeable if there are aluminum flakes concentrated in the roller marks.
A Quart of paint is plenty for a screen, so there no reason to squeeze the paint out of the roller, trying to conserve.
Paint just seems to build up along the edges the more the roller is used, 18" will have less passes than 9". I've come to wipe away the excess off the ends of the rollers before going back to the screen with a fresh roller.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Whats the best technique for rolling the screen when doing a wall? Is it straight up and down with no sideways/diagonal movements with overlapping, or leave a small gap between the lines, and blend them together?
 

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The best technique is to not over think it! Just paint it like you'd paint a wall. Set up a work light off to the side at an angle so that you can see any roller marks that you may have missed with normal lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I started to sand and prep the wall today. There is a portion of the wall that has a rather large hump. I cant seem to get the cracked areas really flat or smooth either.

Im starting to think I should just drop money on a screen. I plan to be moving in the next 3-5 years, and if I had a screen, I could take it with me.

I have Amazon gift cards, so I need to order from there. Would the Elite Ezframe cinegray 106" be my best bet? Its $400, vs the sableframe cinewhite 110" for $280.


There is also Silver Ticket 106" for $270,
http://www.amazon.com/STR-169106-G-Silver-Ticket-106-Diagonal/dp/B00I4WSSQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395382404&sr=8-1&keywords=silver+ticket+gray+screen

And Elitech,
http://www.amazon.com/Elitech-110-Fixed-Frame-Screen/dp/B0042029PS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1395373022&sr=8-16&keywords=elite+screens+fixed+110
 
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