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Does anyone have these or has anyone seen a good review?
 

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Based on the Stereophile measurements correlated to known human perception the C4 speakers are lacking considering their price point. If you are interested in spending the cost of the C4 look into the B&W 802D and a quality digital equalizer. These two units combined with sufficient power in an appropriate room will allow for fully adjustable tonality to suit your taste while maximizing performance.
 

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If you are interested in spending the cost of the C4 look into the B&W 802D and a quality digital equalizer. These two units combined with sufficient power in an appropriate room will allow for fully adjustable tonality to suit your taste while maximizing performance.
Are you talking about an EQ to correct the room or to "color" the speakers, for lack of a better term? Do you have a model you'd recommend?
 

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Are you talking about an EQ to correct the room or to "color" the speakers, for lack of a better term? Do you have a model you'd recommend?
Yes and no, if starting with a sufficiently neutral speaker* than use of an equalizer will allow for virtually any tonality to be achieved. This is not to correct the room per say, but allows for an active solution to loudspeaker choice rather than seeking out a speaker with specific tonality that one prefers despite other shortcomings. Perceptual studies have shown that there are certain measured aspects of loudspeakers that are preferred above others. For example, if one likes a slightly hot midrange, the best speaker in a specific price class can be chosen and then equalized to have this desired tonality rather than accepting a significantly resonant speaker to achieve this tonality. Additionally, design aspects such as baffle step response will vary based on room and placement, so the manufacturers intended response is near meaningless, a proper equalizer can adjust this as well.

I typically recommend a DCX2496 for this job due to it's cost/value ratio as well as equalization and crossover abilities which allow for optimal integration of stereo subwoofers**.

*Neutral in this case is not something that is determined by ear, but careful analysis of a loudspeakers measurement as they correlate to human perception.

**For the most natural playback the subwoofer/loudspeaker need to act as a single point source. This can only occur with two subwoofers placed near field to the main speakers (within 1/4 wavelength) and properly integrated with a unit like the DCX2496 or by placing the subwoofer directly between the speakers (assuming an average sized room).
 

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This is not to correct the room per say, but allows for an active solution to loudspeaker choice rather than seeking out a speaker with specific tonality that one prefers despite other shortcomings.
Yes, looking back, my post was confusing. I meant to present correcting the room and coloring the speakers as two seperate goals.
 

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I'm actually looking at the DCX2496 software now. Too bad we can't get more PC integration with our HT components on a consumer level. How great would it be to hook up your latest AVR via USB to a laptop, and set all you menu preferences without being hindered by the user interface (tiny remote buttons and complicated cascading menu structures).
 

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I'm actually looking at the DCX2496 software now. Too bad we can't get more PC integration with our HT components on a consumer level. How great would it be to hook up your latest AVR via USB to a laptop, and set all you menu preferences without being hindered by the user interface (tiny remote buttons and complicated cascading menu structures).
That is one of the many reasons I find the DCX such a nice piece of hardware. The worst thing about it is how hard I find it to switch between the computer interface and the unit's interface. I recently had to set up someone's DCX via the front control panel and spent an extra hour working with it.
 

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I'm actually looking at the DCX2496 software now. Too bad we can't get more PC integration with our HT components on a consumer level. How great would it be to hook up your latest AVR via USB to a laptop, and set all you menu preferences without being hindered by the user interface (tiny remote buttons and complicated cascading menu structures).
Ha. My Meridian 861 has had that capability (although it is a serial interface) for years.

Kal
 
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