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This sub has an xmax of 88mm. Would this be a good sub to run in a home theater? Also, what is the main difference between subs for cars and ones for the home? Also, why do so many people want to tune to a frequency lower than what is audible to the human ear? Sorry for all the questions as I am new to the HT thing, but an old pro at car audio since high school. Used to run Orion HCCA amps with multiple batteries and then switched to Lanzar stuff. Can't get enough BASS!!!
 

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This sub has an xmax of 88mm. Would this be a good sub to run in a home theater?


That will depend on how it models. Do you have a link to the T/S parameters for this driver?
Also, what is the main difference between subs for cars and ones for the home?

Car subs usually have a higher Fs than home subs but a lot of car subs model well for both car systems and home systems.

Also, why do so many people want to tune to a frequency lower than what is audible to the human ear?
A lot of movies have low frequency information below 20 hz which creates a tactile effect that adds to the experience.




 

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Elite Shackster
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Also, why do so many people want to tune to a frequency lower than what is audible to the human ear?
Another reason to do this in addition to what Mike stated,is that ports can have resonances that can become audible, or other effects which alter the way a sub can sound. By tuning below the hearing threshold you keep any audible artefacts away which will result in a cleaner all round sound.
 

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I modeled with 44 mm of X-max, and the 15D easily has more stroke than the 750 watt power rating can deliver. WinISD says 5.1 ft^3 and 17.5 hz tuning. I could even reduce size to 4.2 ft^3, tune for 18 hz, and still have pretty good performance.

The driver models out to work well, but I have no idea how it would actually sound. I'd love to hear comments regarding the sound quality of it.

I have another thread on here concerning driver selection. I am trying to replace one Maelstrom 18" PR subwoofer with two of something. The DBXI-15D looks attractive. They would deliver a 2-ohm load on each channel of my EP-2500 and receive almost 1,000 watts each.
 

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I'm surprised no one has latched onto this thread. These drivers really model out to deliver great performance. I even cut the X-max in half (to 44 mm instead of 88 mm - 88 has to be peak-to-peak...)

I may buy a couple just for grins. The 12" on eBay are $380 a pair and model out much better than most 15". Two 12" would easily outperform my Maelstrom 18" and only need 3.75 ft^3 each.
 

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I'm surprised no one has latched onto this thread. These drivers really model out to deliver great performance. I even cut the X-max in half (to 44 mm instead of 88 mm - 88 has to be peak-to-peak...)

I may buy a couple just for grins. The 12" on eBay are $380 a pair and model out much better than most 15". Two 12" would easily outperform my Maelstrom 18" and only need 3.75 ft^3 each.
Could you upload your driver file for this sub? Thanks.
 

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I really doubt this is a linear xmax spec here...sounds more like an x-mech.
 

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Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I have one of those "job things" that gets in the way of my hobbies!

I have attached three driver files for the 10, 12, and 15. Maybe I have something wrong in them, since I am not able to get the same curve showing the hump at 30 hz. I would attach my graph, but I don't know how.

Earthquake has something seriously wrong with their relationship between Qts, Qms, and Qes. I used their Qts and Qms and let the program solve for Qes.

What am I missing here? These drivers model out to give strong performance?
 

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Elite Shackster
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With a pretty high qts and a huge Xmax does this come off as a good candidate for a sealed sub driver ? Atleast by judging the book by its cover.
Thing is, when looking for a good sealed driver, I look for ones with a low QTS. High QTS drivers are better to to use in larger cabinets, ones like the larger ported designs out there.
 
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