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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What's the biggest difference between using a DPL-15 vs. the Tempest-X?

Just curious if the extra money is well worth it? I'd like to build the tube to tune around 15hz


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Updating

I'll going to go into full swing on my project over the next few days. Should have some pictures soon after.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Tempest X Sonotube Build Thread

Ok more questions:

1. I plan to use a Behringer EP1500 with the Tempest X. Is it ok to bridge the amp or is that too much power for that driver?

I understand I need a subsonic filter as well? What should I get? I'm basically clueless about that. I assume this is needed if I turn the EP1500 LF filter off correct?
 

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Re: Tempest X Sonotube Build Thread

I wouldn't want to put more than ~800w into my Tempest-X.
If ported you need an SSF.
You can and should get an EQ.
They range from simple to fully loaded and from $60-$300(or much more if so inclined)
sms
dcx-2496
reckhorn-B1
eQ.2
etc
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guy on AVS said he's using the Behringer Ultragain Pro Mic 2200 as a subsonic filter...just wondering what the opinion is on that.

This is sorta blowing my budget out of the water right now. That reckhorn is not sold in the USA that I've found.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok...thanks.
Creative Sounds in Canada sells the Reckhorn B1 and it's shipped out of the U.S. I believe.

http://www.creativesound.ca/
Well I went ahead and got the ED eq.2 so hopefully that will work out...I've got an older 2 channel equalizer I may toy around with as well but I'm not entirely sure it can be used for a sub application.

Thanks for all the help guys.
I'm sure I'll need more help and friendly or unfriendly suggestions as the weeks go bye. :thud:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Few more questions:

1. What do most people use to attach the driver (tempest X) with? I read one guy's blog where he was using 2'' 10-24 machine screws with t-nuts attached on the back side. I found the 10-24 machine screws easy enough at home depot but the t-nuts were nowhere to be found however I haven't checked with other hardware stores yet.

2. I've got a Bosh Brad Nailer and I think I can shoot 1'' brads. I was wondering if this would be adequate for securing the cutouts to the tube along with some sort of construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails?

3. Does it matter where the port comes out at? I've seen designs where the port comes out the bottom, but mostly I've seen them come out the top. I'd think coming out the top would be optimal.

4. Looking for suggestions on leg mounts...I'm not totally in love with the 4'' lag bolt suggestion. I've seen some stainless steel legs at Lowes that are part of a create-a-shelve package but I haven't investigated enough to see if that would work very well or not. I think they come in 4'' and 8'' sections. Not totally sure they can take the weight either because I'm sure they are not solid steel.

Going deer hunting all next week so another couple weeks and I should be building this bad boy. Got my Tempest X in on Friday...it sure looks to be a beast. Still I'd wager they're isn't much difference in the weight between it and my SVS PB10. I had to replace that SVS driver one time and it seemed awfully heavy for a 10'' driver.
 

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Few more questions:

1. What do most people use to attach the driver (tempest X) with? I read one guy's blog where he was using 2'' 10-24 machine screws with t-nuts attached on the back side. I found the 10-24 machine screws easy enough at home depot but the t-nuts were nowhere to be found however I haven't checked with other hardware stores yet.
Hey... good ole #8 woodscrews 1" long work great. You don't need to do the t-nut route. I hate t-nuts because they are a pain to work with. They don't really offer any benefit outside of the fact they might save you from stripping the MDF if you get a little crazy with the drill. Even if you do strip them, you can always rotate the driver and try again.

2. I've got a Bosh Brad Nailer and I think I can shoot 1'' brads. I was wondering if this would be adequate for securing the cutouts to the tube along with some sort of construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails?
Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive holds great. You have to hold the tube in place long enough for it to dry but once it sets, you are golden. Be careful with the stuff because it doesn't clean up. If you get it on something it stays.

3. Does it matter where the port comes out at? I've seen designs where the port comes out the bottom, but mostly I've seen them come out the top. I'd think coming out the top would be optimal.
It matters but there is little you can do to predict exactly how it is going to interact without measurements that you won't have. Just make sure you have plenty of clearance no matter where you put it and don't stress.

4. Looking for suggestions on leg mounts...I'm not totally in love with the 4'' lag bolt suggestion. I've seen some stainless steel legs at Lowes that are part of a create-a-shelve package but I haven't investigated enough to see if that would work very well or not. I think they come in 4'' and 8'' sections. Not totally sure they can take the weight either because I'm sure they are not solid steel.
I saw some good wood legs with studs in Home Depot. They where not cheap, maybe $5 each but they gave enough clearance for down-firing. I'd just recommend combing the HD & Lowes for a solution.

Going deer hunting all next week so another couple weeks and I should be building this bad boy. Got my Tempest X in on Friday...it sure looks to be a beast. Still I'd wager they're isn't much difference in the weight between it and my SVS PB10. I had to replace that SVS driver one time and it seemed awfully heavy for a 10'' driver.
Weight doesn't necessarily tell you what you get. There is some correlation because the steel in the motor is the most expensive part of the driver. You try to conserve what you use to keep shipping weight low also. But... it isn't necessarily a performance indicator.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
www.diycable.com
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is the rule of thumb on "First Port Resonance" and "Driver to Top of Box Resonance"?

I've got just enough sonotube to cut in half and have plenty to make another down the line which is what I'd like to do.

Here is what I'm coming up with on Boxnotes: Sonosub program

210L
Tuning Freq 14.9
24'' internal diameter of tube
Port= 4'' PVC with 1/2 Roundover

Height endcap to endcap = 34.25''
Port Length = 18''

___________________________________

Gross Volume = 221L
Estimated Weight = 99lbs
Total Height = 38.125''
Cut Tube = 32.75
Effective Port Length = 17.50''

__________________________

Warnings...everything checks out ok to the program

First Port Resonance = 386hz
Driver to top box resonance = 109hz
 

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You need a much bigger port than a single 4". That just doesn't cut it, even with a smaller Shiva-X you quickly reach the limits of that port.

I'd recommend a single 6" port at the very least. Use roundovers on both terminations or just by the Precision Sound 6" flared port.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm just going to do the 340L build suggestion from your ap guide Kevin. I bought some 8'' sonotube for the port today and will fashion some sort of flare sometime this week for both ends. Near as I can tell from sonosub.exe and winISDpro alpha....the port length needs to be approx 37'' for a 16hz tune.

Does this sound better?

First Port Resonance 186hz according to sonosub.exe and 183hz showing from winISD

Top of port resnance 128hz according to sonosub.exe

Anyway....someone slow me down if you see or sense something obvious that I'm overlooking...I really don't know what I'm doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A 38 inch port will tune it to 16 hz. First port resonance of 186hz and top of port resonance of 128hz won't be an issue if you use a 4th order crossover at 80 hz.

When you refer to a 4th order crossover at 80hz...does my AVR (Onkyo 604) count as the 4th order crossover? I'm not sure I understand that part very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
LLT Sonotube Build using Tempest X

Does a 100% polyfill mean 100% of the volume? As in fill that enclosure all the way up?
 

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Re: LLT Sonotube Build using Tempest X

Does a 100% polyfill mean 100% of the volume? As in fill that enclosure all the way up?
If Kevin told you to use 100% polyfill HE means 100% pure polyfill and then how much to use IE: 128oz of 100% polyfill inside the subs box...

Hope this helps Cheers....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Re: LLT Sonotube Build using Tempest X

I keep getting feedback that I should not have put 100% polyfill in a vented enclosure in my build thread.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/14778-my-build-tempest-x-sonotube.html#post130774

Kevin could you please clarify any position you may have on this subject? Perhaps I took that application guide from your website a little too literal...I don't know. :surrender:

I've noticed other builders lately have also gotten the same feedback using a variety of different drivers by some of the same people.
 
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