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I love dynamics in my bass systems. So for me I really like a capable L/C/R speaker that can handle everything from 60hz and up with lots of headroom. Then I just add whatever type of subwoofer I can fit in my room within budget for my application.

For me I was searching for very "fast," or dynamic bass for a long time but also wanted to have enough bass that it consumed my room. Like being underwater and then hearing an explosion. So I have built many different types of subs in this search. After spending to much money I have come to realize that I was missing the bass from 60-250hz. Sure an 8" can do this range great but I like the dynamics from a 12" or bigger.(ported/sealed) ...
But aren't freqs that high quite easily located by almost everyone? I think you've actually made the case for using very capable mains with 10" or 12" woofers rather than relying on a sub to cover that huge freq range trying to provide a nuanced (upper bass) and non-directional experience. In my way of thinking, the size sub that will be appropriate is entirely related to the size woofers in your other speakers... trying to go too big will always leave a gap between the sub and the other speakers that's going to be hard to fill-in with nuanced dynamic bass response. My own butt extracted rule-of-thumb here: try not to jump more than 6" going from woofer in mains to subwoofer.
 

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Bass that high is directional but its coming from my mains. Some speakers are capable of huge dynamics and are a trio of 7" drivers or other similar sizes. Some subwoofers in horns are only 10" in size.

SO its just a matter of preference and a balancing act. There are many 18" subwoofers that are capable of blending very well with small bookshelf size speakers unless they are not "the right speaker for the job." Such as Nick stated earlier.

And in regards to what he should use I am only stating what I have found worked for me. 20-300hz is what I needed and I thought I only needed 20-80hz. After playing countless music tracks from Enya, 1812, Tito Puente, Les Claypool, Jean Baudin and others I started realizing what I needed. Few dollars later and this what I came up with.

Capable mains are a must. Having an audio track of just fireworks the subs do well but with capable mains I have my articulate "fast acting," bass I need to make it seem like I am there.

Mix and match is fine and there are so many variables that you could make any size woofer work with another with in reason. Tweeter to a 21" subwoofer might not go so well but an AE TD18H with a tweeter might.
 

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Found a driver that might be good.
It's a used JL Audio 12w0-4. Got it for 30$ ! :) not much to lose!

Used the calculator to get something like this:

That JL subwoofer does not look good to me unless you just want a very low volume addition of bass. If you place the subwoofer in a 3cuft cabinet and port higher then we start making some reasonable spl. But with 200+l and 20hz tune it looks like about 50watts to hit Xmax and spl is only 105db.

SO are there any other drivers available that are 15" and have a higher Xmax?

I like JL for cars but not my home. The brands I mentioned earlier are all pretty good brands. How many of those 12's are available at 30 dollars?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, it looks like I don't know how to read these graphs... Been reading at the How-to pages, and more stuff online, being very close to information overload. Too much to digest in such a short time.

How about this driver? It's the Usher 1202SUB, I gather it's made for subs! They don't have a 15" version for subs. Only 10" and 12". Xmax is 13.2mm. Since I can't read these, I've got the specs loaded in the .wdr and a .wpr files, anyone would care to have a look and tell me if it looks reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ha, hmm...

Looking at the SI site, I see that their sub drivers have Xmax of over 20mm... now, that's what you meant about a higher Xmax.... Guess I'll have to get something similar sent all the way here... nothing like that available around my corner of the world.
 

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Can you get dayton products where you are ? If so dayton will be releasing a new ultimax 15 that looks very enticing.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Can you get dayton products where you are ? If so dayton will be releasing a new ultimax 15 that looks very enticing.
Nope, no Dayton around here.
Would have to be shipped from the US. :(

How's this for an amp? I believe it's a pull from another sub:

 

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300 [email protected] 4ohms (600 watts peak)
20-35hz selectable Hpass
Fixed 100hz Low pass.

It seems like a useable amp to me. May not be enough for your size room but for the price it would be a good fun started sub amp.
MSW-II Amp Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
300 [email protected] 4ohms (600 watts peak)
20-35hz selectable Hpass
Fixed 100hz Low pass.

It seems like a useable amp to me. May not be enough for your size room but for the price it would be a good fun started sub amp.
MSW-II Amp Manual
Cool! Thanks!
Should be like a good starting project .. got to start somewhere!

So, should I go with the Stereo integrity HT 15" Dual 2 Ohm or the Dayton Ultimax 15?
And would it be ok for a sonosub project?
 

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You wont have enough amp for the SI 15" put you can buy once and then upgrade your amp later. Sonotube would be fine also.

And I prefer the SI 15" myself.
 

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Nope, no Dayton around here.
Would have to be shipped from the US. :(

How's this for an amp? I believe it's a pull from another sub:

Unless its super cheap and you are going to replace it soonish i wouldnt do an amp from another sub, reason being, its going to have some type of eq that is built in that is not going to be documented. That amp was built with a specific driver in mind and you will be using something completely different. It's possible it could work with the sub you are building, but equally possible that its going to give you a huge hump in response.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Unless its super cheap and you are going to replace it soonish i wouldnt do an amp from another sub, reason being, its going to have some type of eq that is built in that is not going to be documented. That amp was built with a specific driver in mind and you will be using something completely different. It's possible it could work with the sub you are building, but equally possible that its going to give you a huge hump in response.
Hmm, that is a good point. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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