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Hi Frank

Some of them yes, some of them no. You don't want the entire room dead and only in the upper mids and highs. You need a balanced solution based on usage and the room size. You'll also need some thicker panels in places for bass control.

Bryan

 

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Do floor to ceiling for the first third and then up to maybe 5' high for the balance. Leave the top a bit more reflective. On the rear wall, use something thicker and use a facing on it to allow bass control but not kill the upper mids and highs as well as the surround field.

Bryan

 

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If you can't find OC703 specifically, see if you can find a Johns Manville distributor. Their JM814 is basically identical to Owens Corning 703.

If you still can't find anything, drop me a PM. We'll get you hooked up.

Bryan

 

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Good ideas Shawn

I will disagree slightly with one thing. Standard wall insulation can actually do a very good job if 6" thick or more.

R-19 with paper out - 0.94 1.33 1.02 0.71 0.56 0.39

2 layers R-19 - 1.14 1.09 1.09 0.99 1.00 1.21 (no paper)

Bryan

 

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Agreed completely if you can get it at a reasonable price. For some folks, it's just almost unobtanium or ridiculous to ship to them. In those cases, you can use the lighter stuff as a substitute.

Bryan

 

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What he's referring to is to build the usual wall to deal with the window. Then, build another wall with just studs and cloth to hold the screen, hide the treatments, speakers, etc. probably 2' in front of the real wall. Very common in nice HT's

Bryan

 

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What you need to do FIRST is establish primary row seating position based on REAL room length. That never changes. Everything else revolves around that.

Bryan

 

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The hvac ducts being behind the false wall won't be an issue. The false wall would be just studs and acoustically transparent cloth. Air will freely pass through it.

Bryan

 

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If you mean don't drywall the front wall, that will impact isolation severly. Doing it on top of the drywall is a better solution.

You can do some wood on the bottom but not with 4" or so of ear level. Some folks make the inlays cloth and just strips of trim to frame it.

Bryan

 

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I you're not doing drywall then sure, put it in the stud cavities. Just understand that there will be a huge loss of isolation into and out of the room as they sound will flank right through and up/down.

Another option could be to drywall and just make a panel that's removable with thumbscrews when access to the window is required.

Bryan