Home Theater Forum and Systems banner
21 - 34 of 34 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
It's just a wall, I need to cover the window back there. I've got a Pioneer 5020HD that I need to mount. The problem is that the window well is at the same height as I want to mount the panel. I'm back and forth though. I think wall, then I think maybe a box, MDF front and rear to block the light and to mount the panel to.

If I did a wall, I'd do it a couple feet out in case I ever wanted to go AT. I'm kind of trying to future proof too in case I decide to go projector and screen down the road.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
What he's referring to is to build the usual wall to deal with the window. Then, build another wall with just studs and cloth to hold the screen, hide the treatments, speakers, etc. probably 2' in front of the real wall. Very common in nice HT's

Bryan
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
What you need to do FIRST is establish primary row seating position based on REAL room length. That never changes. Everything else revolves around that.

Bryan
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I took a closer look, fine toothed comb this time. I think my only option is to build the wall right against the other one. There's a pair of HVAC outlets less than 16" out and I'll need to anchor left and right. There's power and an outlet to the cable system in the house that I feed with my HD-DVR. I'm planning on expanding the existing soffits in the room to go the rest of the way around the perimeter, they'll improve the aesthetics and allow me to run the rest of the stuff over there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
OK, Here's a quick drawing of near and far walls, the front and rear are pretty trivial. I think the panels will actually be 51" wide, not quite golden ratio but quite close. It is however, 48" + 2 by 1.5" for framed panels. The gold lines are just a thought, maybe some kind of accent, maybe a chair rail, not sure. Hmm, OK, quick edit with some extra math, If I do the bottom panel in a side ways golden ratio I get a rectangle, 32" by 51" if I do a 2" detail there I get a 51" by 51" square on top which should both be visually appealing and work out to the same 48" + 2 by 1.5" size with frame. So 3 and a quarter pieces of 703 per panel. Still puts me at a weird 42 panels required, I guess I can use the odd ones out when It comes time to make bass traps/soffit trim/etc....


 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
The hvac ducts being behind the false wall won't be an issue. The false wall would be just studs and acoustically transparent cloth. Air will freely pass through it.

Bryan
 

· Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Or...

you could make your side elevations look something along these lines...



Just for your reference, there are no "golden" rules regarding panel dimensions.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Is that wood paneling? Isn't it reflective?
It is reflective and it is also absorptive (depends on how thick and what type the wood is :)), but are we all that concerned with reflectivity below a chair rail? To some degree yes, but mostly no. Don't take the above drawing to scale nor as a true room. It was not intended to be that way. All it is depicting is some ideas. No sound aspects of sound analysis was done for this room.

can I put 703 in the 2x4s framing the front wall or does it need to go on top of it?
No sure what you are quire asking here, but if you plan to permanantly enclose 703 inside of a wall, I would not do it. If it gets wet, it will cause mold to grow. Good luck!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
If you mean don't drywall the front wall, that will impact isolation severly. Doing it on top of the drywall is a better solution.

You can do some wood on the bottom but not with 4" or so of ear level. Some folks make the inlays cloth and just strips of trim to frame it.

Bryan
 

· Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
You can do some wood on the bottom but not with 4" or so of ear level. Some folks make the inlays cloth and just strips of trim to frame it.
Or it could be sound panels framed into wood panelling. :)

Bryan is correct. Don't take my drawing to scale as it isn't. It is just intended for interior ideas. I give you the cart, but not necessarily the horse. :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
No, I'm not drywalling the wall I framed(almost done) so I can still access the window if need be. It's only 1 and a half inches from the wall behind it. I was just wondering if I could put the 703 between the studs to keep the fabric frames I'm going to put in front as narrow as possible. I'm nailing a 2 foot wide by 1 foot high, 1 and 3/4 inch thick piece of plywood to the front of the framed wall on which to put the mount for my plasma. It's a low profile mount so I'm just trying to give the set as much room behind to breathe as possible.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
I you're not doing drywall then sure, put it in the stud cavities. Just understand that there will be a huge loss of isolation into and out of the room as they sound will flank right through and up/down.

Another option could be to drywall and just make a panel that's removable with thumbscrews when access to the window is required.

Bryan
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top