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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi
Finally after reading a lot over the years about home theaters and challenges of constructing one I have decided to convert a part of my unfinished basement in to a home theater room. As usual I look forward to all your knowledge and valuable guidance in completing this task.

I have attached the initial Plan diagram for the room. I have tried to have everything matching to scale so all the items are envisioned to be in that exact particular location as depicted in the diagram. So please take a look and provide any thoughts or ideas that you think will make this better. The speaker locations obviuosly will need to be finalized based on the effect but for now I have put them in to give an idea.

Obviously budget is a constraint, so as I move along this project I will be coming back to you all for ideas that would save money and the same time help me construct a better home theater.

Thanks again for your time and thoughts.
 

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The first thing I would change is the double door to a single door. That way it is not only easier to seal as far as sound proofing, but is a cheaper install.

If possible you should put a return vent near your projector to help with the heat generated by it.

Looks like your first row is 14' back, are you going 16x9 or 1:2.35. You could probably go with a DIY 2.35 screen 120" wide at that distance with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I will definetly consider using a single door (wife's preference).
Regarding the vent, based on your suggestion should I move the current 2 HVAC one to the projector and another near the screen. Will that make sense.
The distance from the screen to the first row (head placement) is 12.5ft. I was thinking of 16:9 screen. Also, I was thinking of going for a Da Lite Cinema Vision 110". Do you think I can pull of a 120". By the way the projector I have is Optoma HD 65 if it makes any difference.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, here are the number of outlets and the different ports I am thinking of having. The switches matches with the numbers in the main diagram. The pricing is based on Monoprice item price but still approximated. Looking forward for feedback on this.
 

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I would not put the actual AC vent at the PJ but a return there due to heat and cold mixing to cause possible condensation issues depending on how hot and how cold.

There are some nice xls sheets out there that help you calculate what will work. At 12.5 feet to the first row I would definitely go with a 120" 2.35 screen.

I have not used the HD 65 myself but looking at the specs you should be ok if you have a room that you control all the light entering. If your windows let any light in you may have a problem.

Looking again at your drawing, it looks like your sub is about 6' out from the corner on the right side of the room. Not knowing what you have for a sub, you will pick up significant gain by placing it in a corner, your left corner should do as it is not obstructed. You can also cause nulls from having the sub that far forward in the room.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply. I can control the light very well as the windows in the basement are not that big. I have SVS PB13 Ultra sub and the position in the diagram is just a reference but I understand your point. Will definetly consider that while placing the sub. Thanks
 

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If I've read your drawing correctly, you are showing 3 speakers on the back wall..
Why 3?. With a 7.1 system you only need two on the back wall..

Also, I have a 108" wide 2.35:1 screen with the Optoma HD65 and it's very bright, so you could easily go to 120"..

The only other thing I would be concerned about is that front right corner window..
To apply corner bass traps to the front wall, you may need to fill in that window, if it's very close to the front wall..
Otherwise, it looks good..:T
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. I have the rear center in place just to have the outlet put in and just as a placeholder so if I decide to switch the things around I will have outlet for a center speaker.

That front right window is way high up. Its 1ft in height and 1.8ft length and its at the top of the 9ft wall. If needed I can definetly close it but I am not sure it will be needed. Please let me know if you think otherwise.
 

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Be very careful with power being very close to low level cabling. Many of your wall plates have that. It can be a large source of noise.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for identifying that. I will keep that in mind. What will be the typical distance between power and low level cabling. Just to clarify the diagram, Switches 1,2,3,4,5,8,9 are the outlets in the room to which the different equipments if needed can be connected. The switch 6 and 7 are the other end of the switches 1,2,3,4,5,8,9 to provide the input. I have the sub power also coming through swtich 6 as then I can manage the quality of volt/amp through the common power controller I have in the component room. This is the same for Projector (which will be attached in the room through switch 9). If I could not have minimal distance required for preventing problems is there any type of shielded wires that I can use. I was planning to run PVC conduits for the different outlets and thinking of having 2 conduits for each switch so A/V can run through one and the power through another. Please let me know your thoughts.
 

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It's OK for the connections to be in the same plate. Differen conduit is a good idea. Try not to run the wires parallel if closer than 1' to each other along the way.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks. I will keep that in mind.

I was thinking of what type of screen to get and is it worth while to invest more and go with Balck Diamond 2 even though it is 4 times the price of the projector. So when I am ready to move on to a 1080p projector I will be all set. Or is it worth to spend on a less expensive screen for now and when upgrading the projector I can upgrade the screen also. Honestly I have no idea when I will decide to change the projector so not sure what to do. I am more concerned with whether HD65 can perform well with Black Diamond or not. Any suggestions.
 

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Personally, if you're considering spending 4x the PJ price for a screen, I'd maybe spend a little more on the screen and upgrade the PJ now - unless you just bought it.

Bryan
 

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I'm not familiar with the Black Diamond screen, but in a light controlled environment any good quality 1.0 - 1.2 gain white screen (of the size you're considering) will be suitable for the HD65 and for any later upgrade..
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I am looking to put in drop ceiling for the room and was wondering what type of sound proofing I can do. I did contact some one from sound isolation company and got some details and here they are:
Resilmount
Tubes of Green Glue
Tubes of SilenSeal Acoustical Caulk

Is this enough to ensure the ceiling is properly sound proof (does not need to be perfect). Or is there something else that is required. I understand, I need to put basic isolation like R-30 or R-19/

If I go with the basic tile with the things mentioned above will that be enough or should I need to look for acoustic tiles?

I read lot of the threads but could not come to a proper conclusion. So any thoughts will be helpful. Thanks again to all of you for your time in helping me with this.
 

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With a drop ceiling, there's not much point in trying to do much soundproofing. There are a couple things you can do to help a little.

You can try mass loaded vinyl hung loosely to the bottoms of the joists above the ceiling. That will give a bit of resistance. You can also cut drywall squares the same size as the tiles and set them on top of each of them to add some mass.

Also, if you're cutting holes in the tiles for can lights, those are big sound leaks.

In any case, you'll want to insulate above.

Bryan
 

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You'll still want to damp the cavity above the vinyl. You'll want to damp it if you do the drywall on the tiles too.

Bryan
 
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