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Discussion Starter #1
As you can tell, I just joined the forum a few days ago and I believe I am going to try my luck at building a subwoofer. I am completely open for advice, but I will give as much detail the first time instead of leaving out stuff, so this can be as painless as possible.

I have a room that is for the most part 15x12x9 ft, with a doorless opening to my bathroom. I am currently using a Denon AVR-883 receiver, and it does have a subwoofer port with a built in crossover to only send the sub frequencies below a certain point. I have 2 B&W 602 S3 speakers on stands. I have room for a subwoofer that has a general max of 20(l) x 18(w front) x 24(h) inches. That would equate to 4.5 cubic ft. or 127 liters.

Pictures of room (replace hxxp with http)
hxxp://pimpmypod.org/theatre/
(please mind the astronauts on the wall, I'm in my new house and haven't got around to painting it.)

Mainly what I am saying is I want the best and most powerful subwoofer within $500 to $600, with the amplifier included in that price. As for the amplifier, I could with the 3 most powerful plate amplifiers from parts-express.com, which 2 of them are Dayton and the other a BASH amp. I have also heard about using an external amplifier. The one I would be interested in would be the EP1500 as I don't need an insane amount of power that the EP2500 gives.

Now for the hardest part...the actual driver. I am looking at either a 12" or 15" driver. The ones that I am considering are the RL-p15, the Dayton Titanic III from parts-express, and then you can suggest your favorites. I really am lost on the driver part.

If I am going too insane on the power and size, its mainly because I will be using this for a year and a half, not using it much at college, then move into an apartment/house after college. In other words, this subwoofer is mainly for the future.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Since you already have a sub feed there is little reason to get a plate amp with a crossover built in. Many use the EP's for powering subs as they are cheap and seem decent. If you have the room to place it, I say go for it.

For drivers, both are very good. I would probably lean more towards the RLP, but perhaps there is a deal you can get buy purchasing the Titanic and amp from PE.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Any other drivers that anyone could suggest? I couldn't really find many other 15's. I know Fi has quite a few, but I can't find the difference between all of their models.
 

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I have room for a subwoofer that has a general max of 20(l) x 18(w front) x 24(h) inches. That would equate to 4.5 cubic ft. or 127 liters.
If going sealed, you would have a net volume of about 3.8 cu.ft. If going ported, the net volume would be about 3 cu.ft. Neither the RL-p15 or Titanic III would perform well in these size cabinets if low end output is what you are looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't need extreme lows, mainly just 20 Hz and above. Would I be better suited to get a 12 inch instead of a 15?
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It looks like it may be best to just go sealed. You could get a CSS SDX 15 which works great in a 3-4ft box for $280 and then get a Elemental Designs LT1300 plate amp for $349. That's a bit over your budget but it would be a nice self powered sub.

I looked at doing a ported build but it is not going to be easy in this size of a box and will get very complicated. You could easily do a ported 10", but compared to a high powered sealed 15" that's :thumbsdown:. IMO. The best thing that I could come up with was a Fi Q12D2 in 3cu ft tuned to 22hz with a 40" long, folded, slot port, that is 16" x 1.5". This is still not enough port area for this driver but, it's about all you can realistically fit in. I'd run the ED LT1300 plate amp for that too. Once you combine: bracing, driver, plate amp and folding the slot port inside the box, I think it's just a better plan to go with the sealed 15", especially for your first build.
 
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