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I have a friend...:D
My old man used to say "it's not what you know but who you know".

Proper application on a smooth cabinet with sharp corners will result in no problems. I used a water based contact cement, easy to apply with no harsh smell.
 

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As said after screwing fill with filler leave a couple days and sand flat.
Make sure the box is flattened as good as otherwise any marks will show.
You can use spay glues cut each bit to about an inch over each side then away you go.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using HT Shack
 

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If you're willing, the PSW10 can offer you an excellent learning experience especially since your needs are for 95% movies. Hook it up to your system, all it needs is a RCA cable from the receiver to the sub amp. Watch a few movies known for low frequency content, get a feel for the low frequencies that it can produce, which will be non existent below 30 hz.
Build your Phoenix Gold sub and watch the same movies. Your Phoenix Gold subs are capable of true 20 hz extension, the difference will be night and day. Search the house for the Polk, it will be found hiding somewhere. :bigsmile:
This is awesome :D Looking forward to seeing a build thread with some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
You bet. I was suprised by the "low frequency" content. Expected more output at the upper bass freq, got more at the bottom. I have a feeling my opinion of "low frequency" is gonna change when my build is complete. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hey Mike, getting close to build time and a couple questions are on my mind. First, the wife demanded the smallest enclosure possible, so I went with the 6ft^3 20hz boxes. I managed to get the ok for both subs :D. After factoring in the cost of the laminate and mdf, I realized that these enclosures may be around a while. These Phoenix subs are old, but never installed. What if I build these and the subs suck, or fall apart? Can you recommend a current, affordable driver that likes a 6ft^3 20hz box?
Second question, trying to keep these 6 cube boxes as small as possible, and wondering if hardwood bracing inside an mdf cabinet is ok? Lets say I used oak bracing. What would a minimum total cu ft of bracing add up to and still be effective?
 

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If you want to future proof the cabinets then you need to change the porting from two 3" flared ports to two 4" flared ports or a slot port.

Once you decide on either 4" ports or a slot port and what the cabinet dimensions are then we'll figure out the bracing.
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Here is my plan. Allowed .2FT^3 for the driver based on the spec sheet, and about that much again for bracing. Will be adding a second layer of baffle over the front to flush mount the sub.I think i was able to lower the tune a little more by lenghtening the back port board, but that reduced the available box volume for bracing a little also. Hence the question about minimum bracing and or reducing the size of said bracing by material selection.
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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
Tweaked a hair to lower the tune a little. Hoping .25ft^3 is enough bracing. MikeP, your thoughts? Dont have a clue if it matters, but it will be oriented like the picture, on its side. With a .75in thick laminated top, 2in larger than the box it self, layed on top of the fully enclosed box. Trying to match exsisting furniture design.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Cool, now I should head back to your enclosure volume calculator and see how much volume that frame with a 3in x .75in size will occupy, correct? If under .24, I can add more bracing, if over .24, I need to increase the box volume a little, and port length to get back to 6ft and 20hz, correct? Or leave it alone if its within 10%, as I think I've I read you tell other rookies in the forums?
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Using that design with 3in by .75in material, I came up with 0.182944 cu ft of bracing out of .24 allowed. Add a couple little horizontal braces inside the slot, or bad idea?
 
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