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Discussion Starter #1
I have finally come to the conclusion I can not afford one of the mass market higher end subs.I have 2 b&w subs right now that have 8" drivers but they bottom out constantly as I like my movies loud and my bass to thunder.My room is 13.5 x 14.5. I am looking to either build a sub from scratch or buy a diy kit.My budget is around 500.00.Looking for something that will dip way down with high db and not bottom out.Thanks and any and all input welcome.Also prefer a ported enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That sounds awful large.Not sure what the enclosure would measure as that sounds like a lot of space.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok,I have to admit I am out of my league here.After going through some of the builds that Mike pointed me to I would be lost as my building skills are sub par and tuning the sub would have me lost .I was thinking more along the lines of a diy kit.I see them on certain sites but have no idea if any are any good. or maybe I need to just buy another sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok after 2 days off looking at other subs and reading here I have decided to go ahead and do a DIY project.I would prefer a non tube design and ported in the front .After reading a lot here I now understand the tuning has to do with the length of the port.So a front ported design would be rather long for a 15 inch woofer.Could you direct me to a design for a 15" woofer and fronted port with the shortest length.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Would it be better to build 2 12" over 1 15" ?Is there a advantage over ported and sealed?Is there a advantage with a tube build?Would a 12" be a smaller enclosure?Also if I was to do a 24"x24"x24" what size driver would I be able to use. and how low could I tune it?Thanks.
 

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You could go with a slot port design. I don't think that the number of ports makes any difference other than there are more holes to make and more tube to fit.

Look at the Subwooder design database and see if there is 15" build there that you can use.
 

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A 24" square box would allow you to use a MACH 5 IXL 18" driver either sealed or ported. That'd be enough to ruin your hearing on the loud stuff and suck your breath out on the ultra low freq bass stuff. See their add at the top of this page for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A 24" square box would allow you to use a MACH 5 IXL 18" driver either sealed or ported. That'd be enough to ruin your hearing on the loud stuff and suck your breath out on the ultra low freq bass stuff. See their add at the top of this page for more info.
I checked your suggestion out .When I enter all info into winisd it tells me the tuning at 26.96 with a 4.02 vent and 6.12 vent length.Can I lower the tuning by increasing the vent?Would like the tuning to be around 19.Am I on the right track here.Box shape says width 20.93 height 33.49 depth 12.56 inches.Do I have to stay with that shape?Thanks and please bear with me as I am just learning.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks like I checked out the wrong driver as with doing the mach 5 IXL 18" the specs came to a 206 liter box.Box dimensions width 23.51 height 37.72 depth 14.14.Vent diameter 4.02, vent length 9.36.Box tuned to 19.34.Does this look correct.What amp would you recommend.14.414 for depth seems awful shallow.Can anyone give a steer in the right direction?
 

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Get more familiar with WinISD. Play around with the box dimensions to suit the space you have in your home for the box but stay with the total CUBIC inches stated by MACH 5. You can adjust the port length and diameter in WinISD. Observe what happens to the frequency response curve as you make these changes. There is a lot of info given in WinISD. It's not necessary to know what it all means until you start to get close to your final design dimensions. Eventually you'll want to know what all the functions are in that WinISD program. You'll then be able to tell all of us why you chose a particular "alignment" for your driver and box. It's all good. You got questions, ask em.
There are also sub builds using the IXL listed in this site. Go to some of them and take a look at how some of the other guys built theirs.
 

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For the amp question, that driver plays well with anything from a 100 watts to a thousand watts. People on here prefer 1000 watts and up! :unbelievable:
There are many who choose the Behringer EP 2500 but other amps are suitable too. Your pocket book will probably have more to do with your choice than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok it looks like after measuring the max size of box would be w22"xh26"xd26' or even 26" all the way around.Recommendations?
 

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Ok it looks like after measuring the max size of box would be w22"xh26"xd26' or even 26" all the way around.Recommendations?
Not counting bracing and a port that gives you around 8.5 cf of internal volume. You could easily IXL18.2.2 in that area. If you go for 7 cf internal volume (not counting the port) that leaves another 1.5 cf of room for a nice large port, tune to around 19hz and you get pretty good results. Although not ultra deep like most people love :). Another slightly cheaper option may be the SHiva-x. It is a 12" but performs similar to the IXL 18 in a slightly smaller box.

Either one of those drivers, given your budget may work best with a 500w plate amp from either parts express or o-audio will give good performance.

Two main options:
Shiva-x (182 + ship)
500w plate amp (~230)
Materials for a box.

This will net a theoretical 110 db @ 20hz and 113db above 30hz in a 5.3 cf ported box tuned to 20hz.

IXL 18.2.2 319
500w plate amp (~230)

This will net a theoretical 110 db @ 20hz and 113db above 30hz in a 6.9 cf ported box tuned to 20hz.


However, if you can stretch the budget to get a ep2500 (250 used) and a eq/high pass filter (70-100) you can push the ixl to 113db @ 20hz and 117db + over 30 hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
8.5 cf of internal volume is enough to make a decent sub as Derek pointed out in the above post. Is the $500 budget firm?
No the 500 is not firm but would like to keep it under 700.00.I would like to keep it around the dimensions mentioned.Also lets say a driver and port call for as a example 7.37 cf and I have a cf of 8.5 is that a problem?Or does it have to be right on the money.Thanks.
 

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No the 500 is not firm but would like to keep it under 700.00.I would like to keep it around the dimensions mentioned.Also lets say a driver and port call for as a example 7.37 cf and I have a cf of 8.5 is that a problem?Or does it have to be right on the money.Thanks.
At 700 you can build a beastly sub or subs :).

Is your main goal REALLY loud above 20 hz in the audible range or do you want to go pretty deep as well, say around the 15hz range to get sub-audible room shaking?
 
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