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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am looking to build a sub enclosure for my 7.1 surround setup I am doing in my living room (14'x17.5'x7.5'). My Sony WX-700 sub burnt up (its a 2 10" driver model 250W) around the end of October. I tried replacing the capacitors and resistors that I could find were blown, but I got no where.

I have about $300 to spend on a build, but I DO have 2 JL Audio subwoofers 10W0-4's that I was thinking of using? I am hoping to jump into the world of subwoofer DIY builds...sucessfully, so I am coming to you guys for advice.

I was orginally looking at some kits and wasn't happy with their quality to price. So I began looking and ran into this site just after Thanskgiving. In short, I know enough to be dangerous!

I was looking at the BASH AMPs and possibly using the Sony's enclosure. However, I can get a far superior AMP for a few bucks more and one that allows me to upgrade later (ie. EP2500 ~$260), and I'm certain the Sony enclosure is too small (14.75" cube inside demensions), or what would be ideal for my space/drivers, etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated:
- Are the JLs okay to use/ start off with?
- What type of enclosure/size?
- AMP?
- Missing anything?

The room is approx. 14x17.5' with 7.5' cielings. I have an ONKYO SR-706 receiver with Polk RM7 center, Jensen JP1500 fronts and Jensen Champion 990 surround speakers (side and back). Not the greatest I know...

As for useage, I would say we watch about 25% Sporting events, 60% movies and the rest music.

One last thing about me: I have a full woodworking shop

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello,

I am looking to build a sub enclosure for my 7.1 surround setup I am doing in my living room (14'x17.5'x7.5'). My Sony WX-700 sub burnt up (its a 2 10" driver model 250W) around the end of October. I tried replacing the capacitors and resistors that I could find were blown, but I got no where.

I have about $300 to spend on a build, but I DO have 2 JL Audio subwoofers 10W0-4's that I was thinking of using? I am hoping to jump into the world of subwoofer DIY builds...sucessfully, so I am coming to you guys for advice.

I was orginally looking at some kits and wasn't happy with their quality to price. So I began looking and ran into this site just after Thanskgiving. In short, I know enough to be dangerous!

I was looking at the BASH AMPs and possibly using the Sony's enclosure. However, I can get a far superior AMP for a few bucks more and one that allows me to upgrade later (ie. EP2500 ~$260), and I'm certain the Sony enclosure is too small (14.75" cube inside demensions), or what would be ideal for my space/drivers, etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated:
- Are the JLs okay to use/ start off with?
- What type of enclosure/size?
- AMP?
- Missing anything?

The room is approx. 14x17.5' with 7.5' cielings. I have an ONKYO SR-706 receiver with Polk RM7 center, Jensen JP1500 fronts and Jensen Champion 990 surround speakers (side and back). Not the greatest I know...

As for useage, I would say we watch about 25% Sporting events, 60% movies and the rest music.

One last thing about me: I have a full woodworking shop

Thanks in advance!
You can get one of these off ebay for around $175 and an O Audio 500w amp for $229. One of the designers is a moderator here (avaserfi).

Build design
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45528


Amp
http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow, thanks for the quick reply!

However, the enclosure looks to be for a 12" single driver. I have 2 10" drivers atm, or are these insuficient? This is exactly the type of thing I am looking for though

I would also need to double these if I were to use them (they are only 4 ohms), and would need an enclosure to handle them. More info HERE
 

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Are the JLs okay to use/ start off with?
That depends what your expectations are. Shown is the SPL graph of the pair in 5 cu.ft. tuned to 24 hz. (or each sub in a 2.5 cu.ft. box tuned to 24 hz.) As you can see SPL drops fairly fast below 30 hz. With the limited Xmax of 8.6 mm input power is limited to 200 watts for maximum excursion to be reached. A subsonic filter is a must at 20 hz or these subs will bottom out. I have no doubt this would outperform your Sony sub, but if you want 20 hz SPL for a HT experience you should consider some other option. If you don't mind building a cabinet, give it a shot and see if you like the results. You can upgrade if it's not what you're looking for.

JL 10.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great info Thanks!

But this is where I get a bit lost:
With the limited Xmax of 8.6 mm input power is limited to 200 watts for maximum excursion to be reached. A subsonic filter is a must at 20 hz or these subs will bottom out.
I understand that these drivers are not great, and it sounds as though I should consider a better single/2-driver option? Would you have any suggestions given my budget of $300 for the Driver and an Amp?

The cabinet is no cost for me.

BTW - Great software, I was playing with it too, but I couldn't get the best results until I saw your values. I am however, a bit confused on the "End Corection" ? I realize that this should be a larger opening on the inside end, but the values are for length (ie. 0.7"), which isn't much, but no mention of how large it should be...?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Low cost, big sound usually means a large ported box. Any size restrictions?
Not really, but I have a space that would be ideal in that it would remain hidden (behind corner of sectional).

It measures: (wxhxd) 2.5'x3'x2'
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just read Pearless XXLS 12 Build, and although there is a lot of 'extra' stuff listed here for pairing with front speakers, this is close to my general budget I think???

Pearless Driver ~$200
O Audio Bash 500 Amp ~$200

Ideally I would want something below $300, but this may not be practicle...
 

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I've always had a soft spot for JL drivers and 2 10s in a ported box would make a great first DIY project.
The project would outperform your original subwoofer by miles and provide you with lots of hours of build and modeling experience, useful for your NEXT project . . . . the 4 X 18" LLT giant which will leave you with only standing room in the HT area. :dumbcrazy:
 

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2.5'x3'x2' will give an internal volume of 12.3 cu.ft. That's more then enough room for a Mach 5 Audio MJ-18M which is $155 shipping included.

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=182

Powered by a Bash 300 watt amp which is $140 plus shipping.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-750

That's the best you can do for around $300. Below is the SPL comparison of the twin 10W0-4's and the MJ-18M. As you can see there are some serious gains.

Pink - twin 10W0-4's in 5 cu.ft tuned to 24 hz. 96 db at 18 hz. 200 watts input.
Green - MJ-18M in 10 cu.ft tuned to 18 hz. 110 db at 18 hz. 300 watts input.

And if you were to upgrade the amp in the future:

Orange - MJ-18M in 10 cu.ft tuned to 18 hz. 113 db at 18 hz. 550 watts input.

If you were to consider upgrading the amp to 550 watts in the future, you would have to port the cabinet for that now with large enough ports to handle the air flow.

MJ-18M.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
THANKS Mike P!

This is exactly what I was in search of! Now to try and convince the wife that I need more:dollarsign:for the larger AMP...:hide:

P.S. I can't find these drivers in the winISD for enclosure designs?

:thankyou:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
okay, so I hope this isn't a total Newb question, but is the enclosure volume the net internal volume (ie. after bracing, driver and Port), or is the port exluded from this value?

For example:
An Enclosure @ 28x35.5x22 (WxHxD) - Bracing (240.9"^3) - Port (141.3"^3) - Driver (0.33"^3) = ~10.1ft^3 (net volume) Using Enclosure-Volume-Calc

Lastly, I think "Rear Chamber" simply means that the port opens in the front, but passes threw the bottom to the 'rear' of the enclosure to the desired length? Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How does this sound/look?

Enclosure @ 10.1 ft^3 Tuned to 18Hz:
Enclosure Details.JPG
Would utilize a single cyclinder port 3" Diam. x 4" length (does this seem right???):dunno:

Here is the WinISD:
WinISD MJ-18M.JPG
 

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IMNO (in my noob opinion ;) ) I think the rear chamber option is there for certain designs that use multiple chambers in one sub. I have been ignoring it for my single chamber modeling.
 
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