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Hey, first time posting on here!:D Anyway, I have been sort of designing/researching a subwoofer enclosure, and wanted to stain the main enclosure with like a cherry stain, and paint the front baffle black, but to stain it I would need plywood. So I went to Bunnings Warehouse today and looked at some plywood, and it was a bit more expensive than I thought. For an 18 mm 2400mmx1200mm board it was 79 bucks!:yikes:

So what came to my mind was veneering an mdf enclosure, since that would be much cheaper and I am on a tight budget. So here's my question: How hard is it to veneer an enclosure? And what is the procedure?
 

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Very easy indeed. Grab yourself some flexible veneer sheets. Apply some wood glue on the mdf and back off the veneer. Let it dry completely and then grab a cotton t-shirt and a iron set to it's hottest setting, lay ghe veneer on the mdf, then put the t-shirt on the veneer and then simply glide the iron over. This heats up the glue and sticks the veneer to the mdf. Even if the glue dries again and you get a bubble, you can still run the iron over again as it will still heat the glue up. Give it a try on some test bits off wood.
 

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Veneering is an option. You can also use a smaller ply on the outside if you cant find any cheap veneer. My veneer budget was going to be $150-200. 3mm ply or even 6mm is cheaper if you need to have a nice finish and want to stain.

I will be doing either option when my subwoofers arrive. Haven't decided yet on which to do myself.

Where in Australia are you from Chrisso?
 

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The nice thing about veneer is that you can match your subs to your furniture wifh different wood effects. Not sure what the availability would be if you live in Oz.
 

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I've been curious about veneers as well. Its been 20 years since I helped with counter tops. Not sure if I have the patients now
 

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Could you please tell me how hard it is to create that second layer? How would I create a right angle on a board so thin? Would I have to sand it back? Sorry for all the questions!:)
 

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Its not very hard on thinner ply. You could sand it back but depending how much you have to take off it may take a while. I use a flush trim router bit on all my edges. That way I know they are all even. And it does not take long at all.

And since your in Australia you can check out Briggs in MSW. They can make you sheets of whatever size veneer you want. From plain to exotic they have it.
http://www.briggs.com.au/

But that being said P.E might still be able to get you a better deal. I am not aware of the prices of veneer from PE.
 

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Here are a couple of US suppliers of veneer and veneering tools. I've gotten veneer from Rockler several times with good results. They carry full thickness veneer and the paper backed veneer that's applied with a hot-glue adhesive. I've used the paper backed veneer several times and it works real well. It won't take as much sanding as full thickness veneer but it will bend around curves much better and usually you're doing limited sanding anyway since the surface has been presanded and prepared. They have a lot of woods to choose from some of which are fairly exotic.

http://www.rockler.com/c/wood-veneer.cfm

http://www.woodcraft.com/Category/1002122/Veneer.aspx
 

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Off topic, but not off subject: Is it possible to strip MDF of old vaneer and reapply? I remember the glue being pretty well permanent. Or can you just lay another layer on top of the old?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the replies everyone!:) I think I remember seeing a post that you can use a steam iron to get the veneer off. Never tried it though.
 
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