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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
This is my theater I have been building. I have juggled the design and building process between a contractor and my folks which have payed to have the room built. The building came to a halt last summer which I was not anticipating. There were other developments in the rest of the house such as a bedroom and additional deck. My equipment closet and room treatments did not get done. It has been a long and difficult journey thus far. The lobby I had some part in being able to decorate (I painted it but has since been filled with tacs :sad2:) but I would like to have my lighted sign there someday which I have designed a place for. It has turned into a DIY project. Here are the latest developments....

My photo website http://www.flickr.com/photos/tns29/

I did need to use the panel nails for more of the trim after all. I needed it or the small upper pieces on the side.and the top and bottom pieces. I used some caulk to do some fill and used spakle for the rest. I had to do this over after the corner pieces went in.. I used some finishing screws I picked up last week in one area of the crown where using the stud was not ideal (screen) and in a few other places where I was concerned about using the finishing nails. I got a coping saw last weekend which has really helped. I picked up three boxes of Industrial Strength Velcro for extra support for the panels then too.

The store did not have the right finishing nails so I got those instead which work fine. I am done with working above the screen. I will not risk touch up painting there regardless of how it looks.

I put Roxul in the ceiling in two areas, between the screen and first row, and the corner at the back of the room.



The left of the room during crown installation. I picked up a small paint roller/rollers and exterior acrylic latex (jet black) paint to touch up the runners on the sides for after the removal of the excess caulk that secures the DIY tiles. I also picked up the most dark and least reflective fabric remnant they had at the store. That will be put above the crown and the side runners and under the DIY tiles so the caulk is not visible there in case anyone has a flashlight. It also is to keep sound in the ceiling better.



The right side of the room during the crown installation. A ceiling runner is drying since it needed painting.


The rear right trap with burlap



A trap in the rear of the room with burlap.

I cannot link images for flickr. Tell me if I am breaking a rule. Link to the site is above. I will try to update as often as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I am even one step further to having the theater the way I would like it. I am trying to decide now whether I want to build the closet where it is at with some integrated design into a sub woofer enclosure, or if I should move the closet. It would take some rather difficult convincing by myself to others but I would really like to have one in the lobby since I was already turned down for having one in the storage closet. My previous idea of one in the closet had some complications due to cable length runs and the fact that it was not my closet to begin with.

Here are some new photos.

Here is a photo of the front of the room taken at the back wall.





The new crown, bass traps, and panels. The panels are hung using Industrial Strength Velcro. ( four small boxes and a large one) They can be adjusted.



The left of the room after completing the crown. There is no equipment closet or track lighting yet. I did not choose for the room to be entirely black.
 

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Thats awesome! I loooove fullrange surrounds. Nice setup. What electronics do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Coooooooooooool!!! I like the room. I bet Steve will like your towers in the rear:bigsmile:

Curious on your sub placement, does it sound better elevated like that?
Short answer:

I would test different heights but my ceiling is to low to begin with so it could not go any higher I think. It would be interesting to see what idea others had to do with that if not here but in another area. I would rather not move it to the front wall because of the cost to do so and I like my cable runs a short distance when possible. It sounds better than before when I had it lower although I don't have a clear explanation as to why. I might move out the equipment closet all together so I could lower it about a foot. Moving it would not have anything to with THX although it could appear that way.

More info

I tried various ways with the sub. I tried using the sub under my center channel with a new speaker I thought might improve the sound. It was an inexpensive Pioneer car audio speaker. It could not handle being hooked up to my mono amp at 200W 4ohm but it was all I could afford to test with at the time not including the sub driver I had prior which I tried also. I ended up returning the driver and only using the new THX Select 200W sub since the two running together made things worse. I now have an extra mono amp that isn't in use until I can figure out how to build a new center channel enclosure with an 18" woofer properly (also with the rear one after that is placed in it's permanent home) and I can afford to.

I tried moving it around more at where I placed my in- wall area. I could not reach my cable to the seating area to test the placement (I did this already before the room had framing) so I tried to the right of the first row. That wasn't working as well. The problem I had was that the wall to the right with the concrete behind it, as is the rear, was concrete. That was taking any amount of the LFE being sent to the sub and causing reverberation. Placing the sub at my intended original location also had a negative impact on the sound because I was placing it right next to the DIY traps that are hidden in the rear speakers platform. It was something I had decided that if it had not worked with my original design, I had at least a very nice place for a guitar pickup or other RCA device (up to three) to plug into.

I tried moving the sub to on the top of the rear speaker platform moving it around and away from the wall again but the right of the room still had obvious problems that even my father was complaining of. I took the entire connection out of the loop with the in-wall interconnects and placed the sub on the equipment rack. I immediately had problems with the rear of the room. This was prior to adding more room treatments still. It was something I was able to treat temporarily by adding strips of carpet under the PVC ceiling tiles by Ceilume (they have an air gap called a backpanel as well) so that they would not rattle. That helped but then I needed to also fix the sides of the room because those tiles needed to be cut to fit and were to light. I replaced those with a new heaver PVC I made myself and used temporarily some carpet for those as well. When it was time for room treatments that I had really been looking forward to, I used caulk to secure them on both sides and put a piece of fabric under every wave where sound from traveling from the ceiling, or into the ceiling could find its way. I also added some above those runners on either side (the runners between the tiles) to help aid as much as I could there. I checked each area to see if I felt a cool breeze that is caused by the hush box fan. I had to seal my door better. I wrapped burlap around some Roxul for the small area where a tile would go in the ceiling but for now I have a cord running out of there and I removed the tile all together to make a non issue. Any future testing I will do with my computer in it's new home in the lobby for now btw. I still want to adjust things.

What I noticed by moving the sub from the platform to the rack was mostly a result of moving it to the side. I did however try experimenting with an enclosure I built using carpet, mdf, rubber mats, and plywood. I wanted to see if adding a wall on the sides of the sub where going to help in proportion to the space I had available to build a sub box, inside a box. I did not build a perfect box but I got the idea that I needed a bigger box than what I could fit there. I also confirmed that adding an absorber above the sub was going to help because I removed the sides to test with REW as well.

I tried also with a plywood piece under the sub which was to attach the walls that I was trying at around the same time. The plywood would be similar to what the sub would sit on after it had a place to sit it on was what I was going for. I had not really considered placing it higher than that because then the sub would be aiming closer to my hush box and would actually be obstructed from view at the center of the front wall. That however, would be a result of raising the sub higher 4.5" to make room for a second media player which I could point at over the seats. The player would be sandwiched between the rack and the new rack closet. It would fit but not much higher considering the thickness of the material needed that it would sit on. I did not want the sub as obstructed by that because it also acts as an absorber and would be like moving a sub closer to the bass trap that I had experimented with before. If I had already gotten a new hush box and projector this might be a non issue but I think a sub should not be within a certain height to the mains. I can't recall that right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thats awesome! I loooove fullrange surrounds. Nice setup. What electronics do you have?
This is a late response lol. I am sorry I missed your question before and thank you. I have not had much time to pay attention to detail. I will be sure to install the trim under the rear bass trap next to the door that is missing when I get back. There is to much viewing in the theater going on lately to get things good down to the fine details not to mention work being done elsewhere.:dizzy:

My equipment list:

Pioneer VSX-1012
6 Marantz MA 500 (1 not in use)
Denon POA 5200
6 Polk RTi70
Polk Csi40 (not the original tweeter right now)
NEC 6PG Plus (6100)
Toshiba HD-XA2
Key Digital KD-VA5
12" Subwoofer by Crystal Audio

Until they offer digital cable at the lake house, I prefer not to watch television in there but for some, I will make an exception with a Sony DVD recorder with component output. We watched the football game with our team being #1 right before I took that photo. They lost and I had to contend with HDCP handshake issues afterwards before we watched our 4X3 aspect ratio DVD. :foottap: The room sounds good with the exception of needing to close that vent, and partial rear ceiling absorption for the time being.:yes:

I demoed Jurassic Park with the sub placement and it seemed like things were good to me. I have never been in another home theater before so it is difficult to say how good it does or doesn't sound. I am hesitant to share REW test results, at least until a relative or friend visits with a computer that has a better sound-card. The one in my PCI slot is not the best quality and my on-board causes to many conflicts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
wow, looks very neat!

what's the ceiling panels made of?
Thank you mike c. The runners, panels, and back-panels (second layer of panel with air between) are all PVC. The runners are made by Ceiling link and the panels are made by Ceilume.
 

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why PVC? wouldn't that make the ceiling reflective? or are those supposed to act as diffusers?

but I do like the "look" though ... if there's no con/negative in using a reflective surface for the ceiling, I like the modern approach.

why are the surrounds at the rear instead of the sides? room limitation?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
why PVC? wouldn't that make the ceiling reflective? or are those supposed to act as diffusers?

but I do like the "look" though ... if there's no con/negative in using a reflective surface for the ceiling, I like the modern approach.

why are the surrounds at the rear instead of the sides? room limitation?
I turned my tiles so that the reflections from the front and center channel speakers were minimized. I may also end up doing this for the rear channels someday. The ceiling acts as a diffuser and absorber. In this situation, if they were not reflective they could not be as good at absorption. The tiles act like a membrane on a panel with a layer of air between them, then there are absorptive materials behind that. Tiles that are not PVC are not the only ones that are effective at absorption it is important to note. Some made from other materials use holes instead which is also effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
My education into acoustics started some time around when AOL was invented. I had a 1.0 version. I had about one month to plan the room and on most days I was present during the construction. I designed it myself (not counting what I copied of course) but without this forum and ones like it, it would have looked much different. It still could, and hopefully will, look even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The power company came again this year and tore down my neighbors electrical wire again to restore power. :innocent: I was without power slightly longer this year which came to about 30 hours. He still has not properly installed his power line. My father was in an automobile accident but he lived. I am waiting for the looters to show again but last year, I don't think they were expecting me. They ended up taking copper piping out of some houses down the road. :dontknow: I should be alright I think. I can begin to watch my new season of 24 on DVD now after a warm meal. :meal:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is what I propose.

Move the equipment rack to what is currently the lobby. Put a custom made cabinet there behind where the door swings open. The front of the cabinet then would feature both tinted glass doors, and another door over that swings out and then goes into the sides that is wood or some other fashion.

This would allow me to:

Turn the old kitchen into a lobby

Hide the equipment for total lighting control in a solution that does not require an IR repeater

Place the rear sub-woofer on the base of the riser between the rear speaker platforms?

Add track lighting also at the rear of the room so I can see where I am walking? This would be a separate dimmed set than the other.

Have a custom made cabinet for all my media near the theater.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am almost done getting everything out of the entryway and the closet. I am designing the closet to have ventilation using a "cool-cube" that is located in the entryway next to it. That would allow for a cool air return for the theater as well and allow heating in as well from the vent that is already installed. I explained this to the man that installed the heater and ac prior to him installing it last year. :innocent:

For communication with the devices I am thinking maybe the Harmony RF and wireless extender route.

I would like a backlit light box display also for the name of the theater to be featured. I am looking at the ones from Bigposters.com. :daydream:

For the lighting I would like the Z-Wave dimmers according to whatever type track-lighting and what kind of bulbs go into the sconces.

The projector cord will have to be hidden under the runners by removing some pieces of them. The new wire runs will be ran over the steel I beams again and the remaining wire will be left in the wall because I don't think it is going anywhere. :yawn:

The snack area will be the old kitchen complete with my new microwave I got for the holdiays, the old refrigerator and other appliances with additional upgrades.

The old lobby will be an entryway and nothing more but will have some nice decor (like the sign) and maybe some functional storage. I will probably build the outlet on the wall into a cabinet and add some nice lamps etc.

The speakers in the back of the room will have freedom!!

There will be some additional room treatments made and I will try and run a second CAT5 using the conduit into the wall and installing an access panel for when are cable service goes digital. I will see about adding an additional conduit as well.

Add a pre pro for my current setup such as the Integra and then I would be ready for a DIY sub in the front of the room. Need more cables and wires already for the plan as is. Need more acoustic materials etc but the budget is a very basic estimate currently.

I could install a false wall using the current stage and access that through a crawl space from the equipment closet for a new AT screen but the way technology is I just could not be sure, so it is to early to talk about that I suppose.

I am using my computer in the living room since they did not install a phone line in my future room and I prefer not to loose things during the times I have to relocate. They are moving a wall there to make room for a door so I will be sleeping wherever possible. I will be watching tv where possible. I got a printer now so that helps. Doing lots of software design etc. :bigsmile: I'm trying to learn Chief Architect 9.5 more in detail.

I am now a Netflix member, I got HP HD-DVD (b-day gift) gift set, and Cast Away on DVD and some nice ornaments. I'm 29 years old now so celebrating that.

Thats my quick update...no photos or anything else yet sorry...but soon. CES is approaching so I am looking forward to how that goes.... The rest of the home design is slowly coming along as well.

- Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update

Here is what a 7.1 system we are interested in getting may be like.

Room treatments continued

I could finish putting up the ceiling tiles with more runners. I could also fill the areas around the outlets with some foam. I need to do something to the riser and rear platforms. The sub needs a nice heavy material also. That would not be attached to the riser or the wall. I am still thinking of ideas but any suggestions are welcome.

Improvements

I fixed a major issue I was having with my walls in the front of the room by moving the panels to the front of the wall and covering a couple of outlets. Works alright for now. :whew:I moved my sub there also.

Here are some SketchUp images to illustrate where the new speakers might be going.





This is the future snack area. It is has been mostly agreed by several including myself that a candy counter would fit nicely where the current counter top is located.

[/img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2402/2175384724_c9e534ccac_o.jpg

This is the closet being remodeled for the equipment. I removed the plywood boards myself. :bigsmile: I might have to remove the walls myself also! :rant: The contractor was on vacation so we forgive him. Everything that was in there fits perfectly fine in the upstairs closet. There will be even more storage areas to store other things later. :dontknow: The vent in the corner is the hush box vent. I plan on ventilating this room into the entryway. We need AC and Heating to get into the theater. As it is at the present time, the heavy steel door at the entrance swings open if not shut whenever the HVAC kicks on. Not good. :doh:

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2235/2175378106_0f549ce0dd.jpg

In this photo is the concrete above the HT foundation beside a drain that needs repair. It is insured so they should fix this free of charge. :scratch: The drain on the left side I would like to see rerouted to the other side of the home when the addition there takes place. I am really looking forward to how they will fix that. It could destroy whatever plans I have for my HT if not taken care of. :sad:



The entryway and what was the lobby. It has been made very clear to me that it is last on our list of things to design and will not be given much thought or discussion until the other home is sold. :spend:



Here is a link to more photos. other photos
 
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