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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I'd start a home theater construction thread here to get thoughts and ideas for my new theater build. We recently bought 20 acres and an older house that is going to needs a fair bit of renovation, and as a part of that process, I plan to build another dedicated theater. This house has a full basement, and I'm quite excited to get some serious room gain from the concrete walls for once. (mavcave 2.0 had almost no gain)

Here is the general layout I've spec'd so far:



I plan to do a screenwall, and place the speakers and front subs behind the screen. I'm also planning on doing superchunk bass traps in the corners.

The front wall will have 4 inches of OC703 or something like that as well. The side walls will have something like Linacoustic up to about 42 inches. Not sure what I want to do on the back wall yet. Open to suggestions there.

I plan to do a 2 tier platform with raised seating. It was also suggested I do a hemholtz resonator into the risers so I'm looking into that.

I plan to do stagger stud contruction on the side walls and isolation clips in the ceiling. Double sheetrock with greenglue on both sidewalls and ceiling as well. Would love recommendations on isolation clips that don't cost a fortune. I'm currently thinking greenglue clips or the RSIC-V clips, which are half as much as the RSIC-1's and Whisper clips.

Here is a few renderings of the room:




I plan to hide the Sho10's in the columns. Need to figure out light fixtures but currently thinking sconces on the columns.

In terms of HVAC, I'm thinking of not having any heat down there, but not sure yet. I'm worried about sound transmission. Need to research muffling techniques there.


What else should I be thinking about? Please feel free to point anything I'm about to do that is collosally dumb :)



I've been modelling it. The room is long, giving me the ability to build a stage this time to hide the speakers behind the screenwall. I think I'll also been a baffle wall behind the screen as well.

Here is a view from the front of the room:



I'll be able to have 3 rows of 3 this time. Equipment rack will be along the back wall in the mechanical room behind the theater.

Here is a shot from the rear:



I'll be going with an accoustically transparent screen that can support 4k. Waiting for the next gen projectors to hit the market at a reasonable price, but want to have everything ready for when they do.

I'll be double sheetrocking with green glue to cut down on noise outside the room. I also plan to put sand in the platforms to damp them.

A few things I'm trying to decide is how much accoustical treatment to put on the walls. I'll put corner wedges in teh front 2 corners. above the subs. I'm trying with making the entire room fabric lined with OC703 behind it, but I don't want to overdamp the room either. The faux columns will hide the sho10's. Wondering if I should make those fabric wrapped and make them out of OC705 as well.

Also trying to decide what to do with lighting as well. Do I go with Can lights or sconces? What does everyone think?

I should be getting started in the next few weeks, and will update you all as I get going...
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LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
Subs: SS18.2 & SS18.T
Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite 106" Cinewhite
 

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Woot! Another build thread - I love seeing new projects start.

Really like all the ideas - as far as lighting, I would try to avoid the ceiling cans. If you are going to try to isolate as much as you can, cutting those holes in the ceiling after you have done your isolation will be painful for you to do. :)

I would either do sconces or if you are planning soffit, do smaller recessed lights in the soffit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, I'm leaning towards a combination of sconces and rope lights. I've even heard of some folks using some simple track lighting above the seating area, which might makes some sense as well. I don't think I'll do soffits this time around but I may come back later to do them for accoustics and additional perimeter lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a question for everyone. For long theaters with 3 rows of seating, I've seen a few theaters that have multiple side speakers. In one theater store, I saw they had the side surrounds where the second surround pair had a slight delay behind the first surround pair.

Has anyone see this? I'm wonder if this is a) needed b) how you'd set this up and c) do any recievers support this?

What is a feature like this even called?
 

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This is going to be a good size theatre with a lot of potential, that I'll follow along with interest! :T

I plan to do a screenwall, and place the speakers and front subs behind the screen. I'm also planning on doing superchunk bass traps in the corners.

The front wall will have 4 inches of OC703 or something like that as well. The side walls will have something like Linacoustic up to about 42 inches.
That all sounds good..except I would use 2" thick OC705 on the side walls for that height..
Not sure what I want to do on the back wall yet. Open to suggestions there.
The back wall should also be treated acoustically as well with strategically placed panels ..Or you could cover the back wall with a suitable acoustic material so as not to overly dampen the highs from the surround speakers..
With that size room, there's little chance of over dampening the room..

I've been modelling it. The room is long, giving me the ability to build a stage this time to hide the speakers behind the screenwall. I think I'll also been a baffle wall behind the screen as well.
A baffle wall is a good idea, providing you use suitable speakers..

A few things I'm trying to decide is how much accoustical treatment to put on the walls. I'll put corner wedges in teh front 2 corners. above the subs.
Also consider putting bass traps in the rear corners as well..
I'm trying with making the entire room fabric lined with OC703 behind it, but I don't want to overdamp the room either.
If you want to have the side walls with fabric covered insulation, then OC703 should be fine..Your columns would be made of timber, which will help to give some reflectivity of the highs, and will reduced the overall area of the acoustically covered walls..if there are several columns of a reasonable width..



LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
Subs: SS18.2 & SS18.T
Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite 106" Cinewhite[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Prof. I'll go with 2inch on the sidewalls. I wonder if Linacoustic makes a 2 inch version.

Any suggestions on how to treat that back wall? When you say strategically placed, does that just means lined up behind the rear seating position to knock down comb filtering? Should I place some sort of HF barier like 6 mil plastic over the absorber to reflect the highs? I was thinking something like Monster traps from GIK or something similar right behind each seat.

For the baffle wall, I'm using Gedlee Abbeys which are constant Directivity speaker designs so Baffle wall is recommended by Earl Geddes.

I'm trying to figure out how to do superchunks in the back wall. I have a couple of choces. That little room in the back is really just an equiptment room, so I could do an accoustically transparent wall and hide the superchunks and the rear subs in there, which would make the room that much longer, and might mess with the seating placements being in the 60-80 percent zone in the room.

Or, I could just build them into the back corners on the stage, but that might crowd the seats and limits where I can put the access door and equiptment rack. Any suggestions either way?

What is the recommended superchunk wedge size? I've read 12 inch diagonal is quite common and allows you to maximize the material. Is that ideal for absorbtion? How low of a frequency will that absorb down to?

For the columns, I was originally thinking of making them our of a wood stuffed with sound absorbtion material (oc703 or something) wrapped in GOM around the frame. Is that overkill? Should I just do wood instead to give some reflection back into the room?
 

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Any suggestions on how to treat that back wall? When you say strategically placed, does that just means lined up behind the rear seating position to knock down comb filtering? Should I place some sort of HF barier like 6 mil plastic over the absorber to reflect the highs? I was thinking something like Monster traps from GIK or something similar right behind each seat.
It will depend on the type of construction you decide on doing..
If the whole back wall will be fabric covered insulation..same as the side walls..then you'll need to have a facing on the insulation, such as alum. foil, plastic or paper faced..
If the construction is going to be insulation up to 42" high only, then you will need to have two large panels, evenly spaced across the back wall and using a faced insulation material..

I'm trying to figure out how to do superchunks in the back wall. I have a couple of choces. That little room in the back is really just an equiptment room, so I could do an accoustically transparent wall and hide the superchunks and the rear subs in there, which would make the room that much longer, and might mess with the seating placements being in the 60-80 percent zone in the room.
Is that back area a separate room? If so then it won't be much point in putting in bass traps in there..
I had overlooked that there is a door in the back corner so it might not be possible to have bass traps in the backs corners if you need to have access to that back space..


What is the recommended superchunk wedge size? I've read 12 inch diagonal is quite common and allows you to maximize the material. Is that ideal for absorbtion? How low of a frequency will that absorb down to?
If you're using OC705 for the superchunks, then you should get absorption down to about 100Hz..

For the columns, I was originally thinking of making them our of a wood stuffed with sound absorbtion material (oc703 or something) wrapped in GOM around the frame. Is that overkill? Should I just do wood instead to give some reflection back into the room?
The columns only need to be filled with pink batts (normal ceiling insulation) and preferably not covered..particularly if you go the whole wall insulation route..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The back wall doesn't exist right now, so I need to decide if I'm going to put a full wall there or an accoustically transparent one.

Regarding the superchunks, what determines how low the absorbtion goes? Is it the depth of the superchunk? What side would it need to be to get down into the 30s?

Understood on the columns. I'll just cover them with GOM and build the framework out of 1x1's with pink batt in the center.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The door and the equipment rack can also be moved around as well. I could move them to the center of that back wall if needed. I'll have to think about what I want to do there. I really would like to have superchunks on all 4 corners.
 

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Regarding the superchunks, what determines how low the absorbtion goes? Is it the depth of the superchunk? What side would it need to be to get down into the 30s?
Density and thickness determine how low the absorption is affective..but I don't think it's possible to get down to that lower frequency, in fact I think it would need a different design to get even lower than 100Hz.
Other more experienced acoustics people may be able to throw some light on that..

Understood on the columns. I'll just cover them with GOM and build the framework out of 1x1's with pink batt in the center.
That still won't reflect the highs! With all the walls covered with insulation, it would be better to build the columns out of timber and paint or stain them, rather than covering them with GOM..
But of course, if that's not part of your decor choice..then you have to go with what you prefer..
 

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The door and the equipment rack can also be moved around as well. I could move them to the center of that back wall if needed. I'll have to think about what I want to do there. I really would like to have superchunks on all 4 corners.
That would be ideal if you can change the position of the door..Just bare in mind that if you need to place separate acoustic panels on the back wall, they need to be placed symmetrically..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh, sorry, I misunderstood you then. You actually want the surface of the columns to be reflective then. That will actually be easier. I'll just use MDF then and stuff the insides with insulation batt.
 

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It's better to have some reflectivity in a room that has acoustic insulation through out..providing that reflectivity is not too close to the screen and front speakers..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I like the look of your columns prof. What materials did you use? It that a high gloss finish you used or something more satin finish? I'm going to try to do a red and black motif similar to yours, but with a bit more red throughout.
 

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The columns were made from plain MDF..The wood grain effect was painted on by me..
The finish was a water based satin..
I've since removed those columns as I found them a bit of a distraction when watching a movie..They were replaced with black velvet covered panels..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ah, I see. Was it the reflections that was distracting and you solved it by wrapping them with black velvet? Maybe I will wrap them with GOM to knock down the reflectivity.
 

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No ..it was just that they were there, right next to the sides of the screen!
Sometimes, decor that looks nice in a lit room, doesn't always work well when watching a movie! All I want to see on the front wall when I'm watching a movie is what's on the screen!!
I dis-assembled them and just made them flat panels, covered with the felt..Now all I see is the screen..

If you decide to go with columns, I would suggest that you keep them plain black..which can look very nice with mouldings applied..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How wide is your room? I'll have my columns pretty far back, the first one just behind the front row of seats and the second pair just behind the second row. I'm thinking the second row will be the prime seating position, and I'll hide the side surrounds in those columns. I don't think I'll see much of them that far back in the room, and I really want to hide my surrounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, new question. The current floor in concrete. I plan to put carpet down with a carpet padding of course, but is that enough? Am I going to have issues with the sound bouncing off the floor? Do I need to somehow trap for that? What sort of absorption would one put on a floor?
 

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How wide is your room? I'll have my columns pretty far back, the first one just behind the front row of seats and the second pair just behind the second row. I'm thinking the second row will be the prime seating position, and I'll hide the side surrounds in those columns. I don't think I'll see much of them that far back in the room, and I really want to hide my surrounds.
That was one of the problems..The room is only 9'10" wide and the screen is 8'6" wide, so the columns were jammed right up against the sides of the screen!

The position of your first column is far enough back not to cause any problems..
 
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