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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Brand new at this and my eyeballs are bleeding after lurking on several HT boards out there, but I've settled on this place to get some information (thanks well in advance).

I have my projector setup and for my first pass at this, I want to go with a painted screen. I'm thinking a gray screen would be best. I have windows (with BO shades) but for 80% of the usage, this will be in the evening. I have dark colored walls, but light ceilings and carpet.

I am not an audiophile or videophile. I am just a scientist who wants to set up a sweet room for me and my boys to play xbox and some movies. I already have a Dolby Pro Logic IIz 7.1 setup and a perfect 112 inch cutout on the wall for a 122" 16:9 screen (use to have some built-ins and just a 42" plasma). I am about done with my wall prep and looking for input on the paint front.

I have a SW and BM store very close to me (and I have always been happy with their paints for all of my other needs) so I wanted to see what might be some decent options for me. Here's a rough sketch of my upstairs room.


I was planning on leaving 3 inches on each side and going with some form of a 2" border (which I also need some input on as well).

Again...major thanks to all who take the time to look!
 

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I would go with a N8 or even a N7 tinted neutral gray. That pj is pretty bright according tot he calculator. Did you happen to notice the mounting distance for it? It's 12'2"-14'7" for a 112" screen. According to your sketch, you're putting the pj back too far for a 112" screen - you have it at 15'2".

Welcome to HTS! :T
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mechman, thanks for the input!

It was a typo...a 122" screen (I updated my post) the length of the cut out is 112" width wise. So the PJ placement works...well, its already installed so I got that much done :D

So total rookie here...N7 or N8 refer to the "tint code" one of the stickies?

If I'm following this, then a SW N8 would be SW7071 (Gray Screen)?

Sorry for all the Q's slowly digesting it all!
 

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If I'm following this, then a SW N8 would be SW7071 (Gray Screen)?
Correct. SW's other N8 paint is 'Unique Gray'. Which one is more neutral ('Gray Screen' or 'Unique Gray') depends on the phase of the moon and alignment of the planets. :D It is simply the nature of house paints that the color you get one day will differ a bit from a can of the same color paint purchased later.

Sorry for all the Q's slowly digesting it all!
No problem! Nobody is born knowing this stuff so feel free to ask questions. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome :T

So as far as the tint and lunar phase, say I go with the N8...which base flavor of SW paint is usually used? I've seen a few listed, such as the Duration or the ProClassic® Interior Acrylic Latex Enamel. And then the question of finish...satin finish?
 

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Awesome :T

So as far as the tint and lunar phase, say I go with the N8...which base flavor of SW paint is usually used? I've seen a few listed, such as the Duration or the ProClassic® Interior Acrylic Latex Enamel. And then the question of finish...satin finish?
I would use the Duration in Matte finish since that paint has the same gloss level as the paint that was used to first create the original Black Widow™ (which was Valspar Ultra Premium in Flat Enamel finish). The ProClassic paint you mention is only available in Satin gloss or higher. In my own testing of that paint in Satin it did not hot spot for me, but others have gotten hot spotting with it. :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet. So I think N8 will work. It is a bright PJ and N8 seems to be a good starting point from lurking around various threads unless there is some reason N7 would be a better option given my setup?
 

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Sweet. So I think N8 will work. It is a bright PJ and N8 seems to be a good starting point from lurking around various threads unless there is some reason N7 would be a better option given my setup?
Yeah, N8 is a good starting point for most people wanting or needing a gray screen. If your PJ would keep the 25 fL the projectorcentral calc says it will have then you could go with an N7 and maybe even darker, BUT that isn't the way things work. As you use the PJ the lamp will get dimmer; most sources say it will lose 50% of it's brightness over the life of the lamp with most of the dimming occurring in the first half of lamp-life; but I haven't seen anything truly documenting that. The point is that you must take lamp-dimming into consideration since you don't want a screen that looks good for 1000 hours and then gets too dark for comfort. The recommended range of foot-lamberts is 12 to 16. When you get to the lower end of image brightness it becomes VERY subjective if the image is too dim or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sweet. I am painting the rest of wall and the insides of the cut-out section a dark navy blue (currently a medium brown color). Then I'll get my screen image projected and get ready to paint the screen.

This leads me to an embarrassing question, but with a top/ceiling mount with all the various adjustments (pitch, yaw, etc.) is there a common approach to centering/squaring your screen? So many adjustments :huh:
 
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