Home Theater Forum and Systems banner
21 - 40 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,018 Posts
They have used closed cell foam for decades for camping mattresses.
The better ones were firmer, thicker and much more rubbery. PU I think.
Later they seemed to go more plasticky with sandwiches of colour. Possibly HD foamed polythene!
As long as you don't have to see it then it won't matter what colour it is.
No idea if the foam material itself actually matters. :huh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks Chrisbee. I'll drive back out to home depot and walmart and see what I can find. Yesterday, there was no one working the floor. It was really strange.

FlashJim, my family moved up to Florence, KY. It's about 20 minutes from Cincinnati. The house is in the middle of the woods. And let me tell ya, there are bullfrogs up here like you wouldn't believe. Probably because there are so many ******* bugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Okay, so I got tired of having this thing on the back burner, so I made some progress last night. Looks like I have one edge a little too tall, so I'm going to have to sand it down a bit. Otherwise, things are looking good.

One question. How much bracing do I need? The box is 18x19.5x24 externally with 3/4 MDF. I will have a double thick front.

Here's what I am thinkin so far:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well I have everything finished as far as the box goes. However, I desperately need some input on the mounting of my driver. I have t-nuts and socket head cap screws. (Machine screws wouldn't work because their heads overlapped the lip on the rim.) The longest cap screw at home depot was 1.5 in. This length just barely puts me through the driver, mdf, and t-nut. How should I mount my driver? Should I try to put the t-nut through a thin piece of plywood and then glue that to the back of my mdf or should I flip the t-nut over and epoxy it to the mdf? I will check lowes tomorrow, but I doubt they will have a longer screw. Thanks guys!
 
G

·
what i would recommend is to predrill the holes for the driver, and use bolts to hold it in place. it should work awesome if you know what you are doing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks Steve. All my holes are already drilled. My problem comes in with the t-nuts and screws. I don't want to install the t-nuts in 3/4 in mdf. I'm afraid the teeth would weaken the wood and cause splits. So I can either install the t-nuts upside down, or I can try to put them through a 1/4 in thick plywood and then glue them on and hope for the best. Anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well I got the driver holes sorted out. I plugged it in yesterday after I added a little damping, and does it ever sound good. I do have one final question (hopefully). How on earth do you remove a countersunk driver from its home? I'm afraid I'll break something just turning it upside down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,018 Posts
How on earth do you remove a countersunk driver from its home? I'm afraid I'll break something just turning it upside down.
The heavy magnet makes the center of gravity of most drivers well behind the cone.
Big drivers are obviously heavier than most.

Place the box carefully on a side which places the the driver on edge.

Now get somebody to roll the box to tip the driver out into your waiting hands.

Or just tip the box forwards until the driver falls out. But be sure to have both hands free to save it from falling onto the floor.

Don't poke your fingers through the cone or the surround. The level off fragility varies from driver to driver. But I've seen enough damaged driver cones and roll surrounds in showrooms to know they won't take much abuse.

A third alternative is to find a bolt that fits tightly into one of the driver fixing holes. Screw the bolt in just enough to get sufficient grip to lift one edge of the driver when you pull up on the bolt. The driver should be on its back with the magnet down.

Don't force the bolt in with a wrench or you could crack the driver rim. You only want just enough grip to allow you to lift the driver enough to get your fingers under one side of the the rim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks Chrisbee! I managed to wrestle it out without any damage! Now I'm going to have to get this thing sanded and painted. I'm almost finished! Woohoo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hey guys, I thought I would post the finished product. Thanks to everyone who helped! I'm not sure what color I'm going to paint it yet, but here it is! And it sounds amazing!


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks guys!!! If anyone has a suggestion on color or finish, let me know. (Sorry sonnie, crimson is a no go.:)) My quartets and center are black, but my rears are walnut. Since my collection is already a hodgepodge of finishes, I am open to almost anything. I'm thinking about going with white, maybe even piano white. It might not overpower everything else the way a big black box could. Thanks again, everyone, for all your help!
 

·
Senior Shackster , Platinum Supporter
Joined
·
828 Posts
You can use the texture paint like the one I used on Sonnie's box, you can find it at any automotive paint store maybe even auto zone, car quest or advance auto parts and pick anything in the room the has the color the you like and take to the automotive paint store and they will match the color with vinyl dye(is a type of paint). :bigsmile:

Paint part number 3985 and the name SEM.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
Great Job FireWalker.... When can we expect to see LP FR? and impressions about your trophee?:T
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
My impression so far, blaser, fan-*******-tastic. I have a couple of cheap mics around that might work for the FR measurement. I am talking to a guy that lives 45 minutes about his dsp1124p. He says he will let it go for $50, but he doesn't have any idea what the firmware version is. I called behringer hoping that they would be able to tell me from the datecode/serial, but the guy I spoke with couldn't tell me. I would rather not drive all the way there and back to find that it has 1.3. Does anyone here have the Datecode 1003?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,514 Posts
I would rather not drive all the way there and back to find that it has 1.3.
It would only mean that you have to enter the filters by hand - other than that there is no difference.

REW recommends the filters and you enter them. Takes about five minutes... probably about the same amount of time to plug in the USB/midi cable and program the BFD to accept the filters over a cable.... why bother? :huh:

brucek
 
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Top