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I'd rather mount it to the baseplate somehow...
Plate amps need to be mounted vertically as that is how they are designed to dissipate the heat. Horizontally mounting the amp is not recommended. You could also build a separate box for the amp.

the amp has a 6db boost at 35hz..........so I may have to change some resistors to flatten that- or maybe not.
You definitely should eliminate the boost if at all possible. I'll model and post the a graph to show you why when I get home from work. Do you know at what the frequency the high pass filter is?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I did not know about the vertical mounting; figured as long as the fins faced upward it would be alright.
Would a configuration with a plate amp at a slight incline suffice?

It is not a large plate,so I may mount it vertically at the base, on the inside of the posts with the controls facing outward. This would protect the amp and allow the convection cooling it needs. I would need to have a slightly wider baseplate and endcap to mount the 'legs' since the tube is barely wider than the driver. I haven't quite figured what to use for the legs that would be long enough, yet strong, narrow, and inexpensive.

The site states that the 3rd order high pass filter is at 25hz and the 6db boost is at 35hz.

That boost would ruin that flat response I sought to achieve and have a 'spike' at a particular freq, correct? Would it also draw increased power from linear sound production?

Why would this boost be designed into an amp, especially fixed? The only reason I could think of was to compensate for a small or poor speaker design that had an anemic low end.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
:eek:

That's really bad- worse than I'd ever expect. When I modeled the cylinder with your smaller 2.0 and the revised 2.2 with shorter port, it showed a slight shift in lower freq, a little less spl, and xmax reached at 185-190W vs 200W in the 2.0 I figured I could live with that, but that boost is bad, bad, bad. Thanks for modeling that.

You're sure horizontal mounting with cooling fins up will affect cooling? I could see it on a large surface area, but would not expect it on such a small area as this...
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Hey Mike! I've been :reading:and playing with winisd :duh:and think I have a better grasp of tuning, but lets make sure!:hail:

I have the 4"port 17" port with volume of 2.2 ft3 tuned at 28hz with variable lpf set at 150hz. The high pass filter that I'll change can look like these, with 21hz hpf in blue and 24.5hz hpf in red. I believe that by using the 24.5hz hpf that I will obtain better sound. Please correct me or add if I am wrong, but this is true because the spl is flatter, the port velocity is lower, and the max excursion is not surpassed at the given input (esp. down low).

My endcaps are almost done and I just need to cut the tube, assemble, and finish it:yay2:

Oh, and how do you import the nice color graphs from winisd? I used the print command to pdf as I did not see another way to copy/paste, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Oh, and few last questions :dumbcrazy:

I input .09 volume occupied for the 10" driver based on the tc sounds 10" driver in sonosub, is that ok?

I have a flared port on both ends for 17", do I need/want to support it interally in some way other than the face screws?

Thanks!
 
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