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In my experience, unfortunately fuse popping requires either repair of amp, or replacement. In this era of mass produced in China, etc, usually replacement becomes the only viable option. So barring taking amp to an electronics repair shop (if available during C19), you might measure dimensions of amp/opening, see if someone like Parts Express has a drop in.
Good luck.
 

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In my experience, unfortunately fuse popping requires either repair of amp, or replacement. In this era of mass produced in China, etc, usually replacement becomes the only viable option. So barring taking amp to an electronics repair shop (if available during C19), you might measure dimensions of amp/opening, see if someone like Parts Express has a drop in.
Good luck.
Here are some pics of the inside of my sub if you see something please let me know. I鈥檓 also open to get a budget amp if it can鈥檛 be fixed. Thanks
Afterlife2
Info on sub
Amazon.com: Proficient Audio Systems PS10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Home Audio & Theater
This is probably too much information, but here it goes... The main power bridge is Q7 Q21 Q22 and Q7. When they fail, they will short and the fuse will blow. They usually will not show any visible signs of being bad. They are between the circuit board and the heat sink to dissipate the heat Since they get hot. Too hot for too long causes failure, especially with no cooling fan. The components can be tested with a diode tester. They can be replaced. They will probably be two different part numbers and it is printed on the components. If the fuse opened quick enough then the speaker itself may be okay. But some of the cheaper amps don鈥檛 have adequate protection which means the speaker voice coil may also be damaged. Speakers can be re-coned ( reconing includes the Voice coil) or replaced. The problems may be elsewhere, but the power bridge is one of the first places to check.
 
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