Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All

What is the perfect room dimensions to help prevent grossly uneven bass energy distribution around the room dimension?

I read this is a very bad idea 16 x 24 x 8. Don’t understand why

My room dimensions are 28’ x 19’ x 12’

28 feet Long
19 feet Wide
12 feet High
But it can be changed

The theatre I had in mind is in the basement 28’ x 19’ x 12’ in feet and it is to have. 8 or 10 seats:
Although I was thinking of squeezing a sofa bed or built in wall bed
For one of those back to back movies nights

The screen I am thinking is 16 feet wide. This gives me about a 212” diagonal 2.35:1 screen with a high-gain screen. When using the 16:9 aspect ratio, the screen diagonal is approximately 221".

The projector I have at this moment is Sony VPL VW100, with 8 feet screen but I am hopping to double that in my new HT
I am not sure this projector will throw to that distant….as I would like the screen to be wall to wall.

The speakers I have at moment are 7 monitor audio in wall Gold Cp and PB13 Sub. Planning on to get another PB13 to go with my present one


could someone recommend me a better proportion out of this please as I haven’t started building my basement yet….


Many Thanks in advance for your help..

James
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
16x24x8 is particularly bad due to dimensions being multiples of each other. 24=3x8, 16=2x8

There are no perfect dimensions. All you can do is get things spread the best you can. Your dimensions don't look bad.

That said, I think you should seriously reconsider your screen size. It would HAVE to be an AT screen or the side speakers will be jammed against the wall and perform poorly. It also doesn't leave you any room for proper front corner treatments.

A screen that big is going to be a bugger for even 2 Sony's to fill in terms of brightness - not to mention the pixel size you'd end up with.

Also, a screen that size will cause you all kinds of viewing angle issues with more than 1 row. The back row would need to be probably at least 24-30" higher than the front row to allow people to see the bottom of the screen over the front heads.

Lastly, have you looked at the included viewing angles of a screen that size? In a 28' room, the primary row would be at either 11.2' or 16.8'. Either of those will give you way too much included angle for your field of view.

I'd be looking more in the 150" MAX range and you'll still have some issues to contend with.

Bryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
16x24x8 is particularly bad due to dimensions being multiples of each other. 24=3x8, 16=2x8

There are no perfect dimensions. All you can do is get things spread the best you can. Your dimensions don't look bad.

That said, I think you should seriously reconsider your screen size. It would HAVE to be an AT screen or the side speakers will be jammed against the wall and perform poorly. It also doesn't leave you any room for proper front corner treatments.

A screen that big is going to be a bugger for even 2 Sony's to fill in terms of brightness - not to mention the pixel size you'd end up with.

Also, a screen that size will cause you all kinds of viewing angle issues with more than 1 row. The back row would need to be probably at least 24-30" higher than the front row to allow people to see the bottom of the screen over the front heads.

Lastly, have you looked at the included viewing angles of a screen that size? In a 28' room, the primary row would be at either 11.2' or 16.8'. Either of those will give you way too much included angle for your field of view.

I'd be looking more in the 150" MAX range and you'll still have some issues to contend with.

Bryan
Thanks you for answering my question so quickly…
Ok 221 was being bit greedy LOL so I’ll settle for 150… That’s approximately 12 ft I think….
Was thinking of curved acoustically transparent screen.
As far as room is concerned I could shorten the length of the room and ceiling height not sure I could do anything with depth..
So is there a better dimension that I should opt for?
Tried looking for some kind of Home Theatre design software to get some idea and found
roomplanner. aticovia
Is there any other software you might recommend to start with?

Thank you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
150 is approx 12'6" diagonal screen. For AT, you're not going to get high gain in anything decent. I wouldn't recommend anything but the SMX at that size and with the curve. Just do the calcs for proper light output with your PJ to make sure it will work.

I don't see anything drastically wrong with the room dimensions as they stand. Also remember that you'll be moving the screen forward from the real wall a couple of feet to hide speakers, sub(s), treatments, etc. so your visible room will be approx 27'.

For design software, most people just use SketchUp or Visio. Depends on what you want and need.

Bryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
150 is approx 12'6" diagonal screen. For AT, you're not going to get high gain in anything decent. I wouldn't recommend anything but the SMX at that size and with the curve. Just do the calcs for proper light output with your PJ to make sure it will work.

I don't see anything drastically wrong with the room dimensions as they stand. Also remember that you'll be moving the screen forward from the real wall a couple of feet to hide speakers, sub(s), treatments, etc. so your visible room will be approx 27'.

For design software, most people just use SketchUp or Visio. Depends on what you want and need.

Bryan
Thanks once again Bryan for your suggestions

I will go head with present dimension 28x19x12 Still not sure if I really need 12 ceiling even if I have raiser at the entrance.
Could 10 be okay or should I go head with 12 and not think of digging deeper for sake of saving some cost….

I was thinking of getting SMX Cineweave HD screen. I am positive VW100 won’t throw to that distant. Or that big…Not good news! as I really didn’t want to buy another PJ :hissyfit:

I have been playing with Google sketchup. It will take me a while to get the hang of it but its fun and I am not in any hurry…..
I will probably get one of the HT designer to come up something grand

Do you think the speakers I have at this moment (monitor audio inwall Gold cp) will do for this size of room? If I were to add another PB13…. Or should I be looking into M&K’s



James
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
Your call on the ceiling height. More is better when it comes to height IMO. Just so many less issues with risers, viewing angles, etc. It also gives a huge sound and great surround effect.

That's a big room for those speakers. You're going to need something pretty stout. Don't know budget but you might want to touch base with Mark Seaton. He's got some killer stuff that would be great in that room.

2 PB13's would be about a minimum I'd consider in that space. Again, Mark has some killer designs. I'd definitely plan on at least 2 subs - 1 front center, 1 rear center at a minimum.

Bryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You had me at
(It also gives a huge sound and great surround effect.):R
I am a sucker for huge surround I usually have my rears 1 or 2db hotter
So I am sticking with 12 ceiling…..
I have been checking out Cinema Kellogg and the his Triad speakers, Not cheap are they???? I did check these ones MK Professional IW95
Architectural In-Wall Speaker before I settled for monitor audio as it was more then enough for my small room now I wish I had gone for IW95


(2 PB13's would be about a minimum I'd consider in that space. Again, Mark has some killer designs. I'd definitely plan on at least 2 subs - 1 front center, 1 rear center at a minimum)

Are you suggesting four sub? :eek:
.
james
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,288 Posts
Potentially... Depends on how hardcore you want to be. You're talking about a room that's close to 7000 cu ft. That's a lot to pressurize and get even response in. Multiple high output subs in multiple locations is the only way to go. 1 in front and 1 in the rear (if they're strong enough) will help smooth things and give you nice even bass coverage.

Now, if you want to get silly (like nobody around here does that.....) I'd lop off 3' of the room and build a big IB setup up front :hsd:

Bryan
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top