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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is probably a basic question but...

Can someone tell me if I understand this correctly? I was looking at SVS PC12-NSD for $749 shipped. I thought I could probably build one cheaper and as good if not better.

So I like the look of a cylinder sub, it fits my space the best. A box is out of the question. I currently have a Force Field 3 which is tiny and my wife hates it.

So here’s where I need some clarification. My goal is for a cheap as possible – with a max budget of $749 to get a sub that will play pretty solid down to 16 Hz. And due to my (lack of) wood working skills and my space, it has to be a tube sub.

I’m looking at the SoundSplinter RL-P12 as the sub (I’m definitely open to suggestions on that choice). It says optimal volume for a 16.5 Hz Fb is 2.5 ft^3 for a vented enclosure. That’s it?

I can get a 16 inch diameter QuickCrete form at Lowes pretty cheap. So…

Vc= pi * r^2 * h

2.5 = pi * ((16/12)/2)^2 * h --> 2.5 = 1.3962 * h --> h = 1.79 ft or 21 7/16 inches tall?

That’s it? I must be doing something wrong here. My math tells me my sub will be 16 inches wide by less than 2 feet tall (roughly)

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just realized I put this in the wrong section... can this get moved to the general discussion since this is really a general help questions?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No I haven't bought anything yet still planning. I just picked out this one because it looked like it could go low in a relatively small enclosure. I have no idea what I'm doing though so input is welcome :)
 

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Looks like I need to search for a new driver. I was also looking at Dayton and TC Sounds
Both good drivers but you could go something like this if budget is a concern? You could actually build two of them for your budget if you like. A few of us just had a long discussion and a member made a very good case regarding. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dvc385-88-15-dvc-series-subwoofer--295-190?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

The 12" is also a option http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dvc310-88-12-dvc-series-subwoofer--295-185
or dual Infinity 1260w's.

Your first two driver options are definitely good options imo though. Sorry if I but in, I didn't mean to.
 

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Like the originator, I have few to no carpentry skills. As such, depending upon how low he wishes to set his standards, I offer my Carpentry-Free (or nearly) so options for subs. Look at other threads of mine here if you really want, but the cheapest I've found is just buy a 12 foot long Sonotube or equivalent that will fit your driver (I use a 12") and you can literally stick the driver inside (if it will fit), or for more permanence do something like the "El-Pipe-O" and make a collar or box for the subs. You get quite good performance for the cost of the driver + maybe $50 (for a 12" x 12' tube). You pay the price in appalling appearance :)

If you want something that looks like furniture rather than a construction site, keep reading! Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I'm not that particular as to which driver. I have some fixed variables and I've stated my performance goals. I'm hoping I can get some guidance to the rest.

Fixed is budget at $750 and I'd obviously like to spend as little as possible to reach my goal.

Fixed is driver size at 12". A 16" diameter tube is as about as big as my wife will allow so that leaves me with a 12" driver.

Fixed is gross volume. The diameter is set at 16" and I don't think I can go higher than 36-40 inches for WAF reasons.

So with those fixed, I was hoping to get help on driver, amp port vs sealed design.
 

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You tube diameter and height restriction make it impossible for a ported design. With about 100 liters net volume I can only think of a dual 12" sealed design like dual TC Sounds Epic 12's with a iNuke 1000 amp. That would match the output of the SVS at 20 hz, be about 40 inches tall with the legs and baseplate included, and would cost $535.
 

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Sweet! Are there examples of this type of design or is it something you just cooked up ;)
It's easy enough to get around SVS performance (if you know how to read things) or beyond fairly modestly. The hard part is doing it in the same size enclosure which I now notice in your original post. Higher excursion drivers with more ability want larger enclosures just like you see in the SVS line.
 

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Playing off the Fi suggestion - you could go with an Fi Q driver loaded with options and have enough for your sonotube and amp of choice with money left over to have a local cut your baffles.

Want to push the budget and you could aim for 2 bare bones Fi Q drivers in 36" tall x 16" diameter sonotube dual opposed and a used Berry amp that will kick out 3k watts into a 4ohm load. That would take some budget overage or creativity to get some parts, but would be well worth it.

The only thing better than the ladder would be if you could separate the cabinets into two 18" tall tubes for FR smoothing. But that gets into more wood too.

With your budget I think you have lots of driver options. The biggest thing you should be searching for is a great deal on having some baffles cut, of course once you know the dimensions.

It's always easy to sneak in 20.00 $$ of carpet (to cover the sonotube), paint, etc..... as time goes by.

I've been sneaking sheets of OC 703 for sound deadening for a couple months now. A couple here and a couple there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks! I will try to model that 12 Q driver you mentioned. I plan on keeping my FF 3 for freq smoothing. It is rated to 18 hz.
 

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The Fi Q 18 was tested and it has a high Le which affected the frequency response in a sealed design, I'm assuming the smaller subs would be the same.
The ssd and ssa xcon both reviewed similar to the Q in terms of Le. So, if that is an issue for the OP he might look else where. It came to mind because the build above used the Fi ssd.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been doing a lot of reading and maybe I was too quick to jump on a sonotube build. With a footprint of only 4-5 inches larger I could go with a sealed box and it would be easier to build imo.

What kind of output could I expect with the following build?

(1) 15" Dayton Audio UM15-22 ~$200
(1) 1 3.0 cu ft. sealed flat pack box ~ $100
Heres the link:Link
(1) iNuke 1000 ~$150

Without misc. like polyfill, terminals, paint, etc... I'm looking at $450 for one sub and a lot easier to build imo. I could even maybe build 2. If it's that good I'll just sell my FF 3!

I tried to model this, but WinISD alpha keeps crashing on me. Also how do I take into account room gain?

I will be using an Emotiva Fusion 8100 which is essentially a UMC-200 with a 7 channel amp so I'll have PEQ to boost the lower freq. I also have a Cross-Spectrum UMIK-1 and plan to run REW. So with that in mind - is this a candidate? Thanks
 
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