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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Help with sonotube build

I'm gonna build a couple of sonotube subwoofers, and would like some advice. Think I'm gonna be using the mach 5 audio ixl 18.2 driver since I live in canada. I've been doing lots of searching on here, and I'm gonna need to use a 24 inch sonotube, with a 6 inch port? 3/4 mdf for the top and bottom plate, and base? I just dont know the length I need to make the sonotube, and what length the port needs to be. This will be my first build, so any help would be appreciated. I'm going to be purchasing an ep4000 to run the two, I already purchased a bfd 1124. One other thing I'd like to know, is whats best to dampen the inside with. Tks kenny
 

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Re: Help with sonotube build

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD.htm (This is the file for the Mach5 18.2.2 Driver)

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sonosub.exe (This is to help with correct tube and Port size)

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD-projects/Mach5 Audio IXL-18.4.wdr (This is the Mach5 18.2.2 driver file for WinISD pro to help model the sub in given enclosure and port length)

Have a play with some of the software.

Mach 5's Recommended box size for the 18.2.2 is 365 litres (12.88 cu.ft.) 15hz tuning but will work well in a 200lt box with a 20hz tune.

Check out some of the build threads on the site for some inspiration for your build.

Happy Building.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ya it's going to be mainly used for ht. Tks david, I'll try some of that software out. Can we assume though that in order to get a low tune I'll probably need the 24 inch tube. I wanna pick up the mdf this weekend, cause I have a friend whose gonna cut it for me, I wanna get the ball rolling on these.
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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone successfully build a sonotube who's from Edmonton? I'd love to see a finished version in person.
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You'll really want to use more than one 3/4" layer of MDF per endcap - luckily MDF isn't very expensive. Three layers per cap would be great, with two layers going inside the tube and the third sticking out of the tube. Screws can't bite into MDF too well, so you may want to use small sections of wood or plywood at each mounting spot. Lastly, save the driver cutouts from the bottom endcap - you can use them to create donuts for extra support of the port on the top cap - see the second attached picture.

Oh, one more tip - if you put a slight chamfer on the outer edge of the inner layers of endcap, it makes it easier to guide the tube into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome thanks mike. So my my mdf, 3/4 inch? I'll cut 2 circles at 24 inch, Top and bottom and 3 circles at 25 inch. Top, bottom and baseplate?

Does the port need to be flared both top and bottom? What do I line the inside with?
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Discussion Starter #9
Tks Steve.I'm slowly starting to feel like I can do this. Thanks for all the help so far guys!
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I only used one layer on my end caps without issue. It certainly won't hurt to make more, but if you don't have tools to make the cutting easy, or the extra MDF, I wouldn't worry about it.

You also don't HAVE to flare your ports. Like the extra end caps, it certainly won't hurt, but at least for my build I didn't flare and I'm totally satisfied.

As far as what to line the inside with, all I did was use thick foam like you use to protect stuff when you ship it, on both end caps.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. But also don't get caught up in the you MUST do this or this or it will sound horrible. That's not always the case.
 

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I only used one layer on my end caps without issue. It certainly won't hurt to make more, but if you don't have tools to make the cutting easy, or the extra MDF, I wouldn't worry about it.

You also don't HAVE to flare your ports. Like the extra end caps, it certainly won't hurt, but at least for my build I didn't flare and I'm totally satisfied.

As far as what to line the inside with, all I did was use thick foam like you use to protect stuff when you ship it, on both end caps.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. But also don't get caught up in the you MUST do this or this or it will sound horrible. That's not always the case.
I agree with this. I think what you need to do is a little research, make a list of all the "musts" and then choose what you can and want to actually do. Test out the final product and since this sounds like your first DIY alter later or do another better version down the road using the same gear or upgrade if it is in the budget.:hsd:
 

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Well sure, you can get away with not doing a lot of things. You can also get away with driving a Kia Rio if you really wanted to.

If you are going to spend the time, energy, and money to build a subwoofer though, you may as well do it right the first time and not have to second guess anything later.
 

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I agree with Steve, when I built mine I skipped the 3rd inner layer and when I was assembling it I wished I took the time to cut 2 more inner layers of MDF. One for top and bottom, I don't have any leakage but it would have made a much better fit.

Don't be afraid to ask questions we have a great bunch around here!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wanna be making them the best I can the first time. So I'll be using 3 layers of mdf. I'm a perfectionist. I've been so busy and haven't gotten any time to get started on these. Will probably be picking up mdf this weekend.

Twin size mattress foam from walmart to line the inside? Anyone know what kind of mattress pad or foam it is that ppl are using
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I wanna be making them the best I can the first time. So I'll be using 3 layers of mdf.
Then add 1.5 inches to the "Cut Sonotube to" length in post #6.
Twin size mattress foam from walmart to line the inside? Anyone know what kind of mattress pad or foam it is that ppl are using
Make sure the foam is open cell and not closed cell.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So let me get my cuts right. Anyone know what the hole size had to be for the Mach 5 18.2? I think it's gotta be 16 11/16" but I'd like to know for sure. Also when I cut my 8" port hole, the two inner mdf gotta be cut the thickness of the sonotube bigger?
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