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We have a HLN5065W1X/XAA 50" DLP TV, and it keeps shutting off automatically. We had a service tech come out and replace all parts, including bulb, digital board, color wheel, basically the entire inside except the power supply and buttons were replaced. It worked for a few days, but then started shutting off again. Any suggestions on what else it could possibly be? :huh:
 

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There is more inside than the parts you listed that can cause shutdown. Analog board, light engine, ballast, power supply...

What exactly happens wen it comes on and shuts off? Do you get the chime (go into the menu and activate it if it is turned off), any LED indication on the front, how long does it run, etc? If a tech could not figure it out being there, others will have to get lots more info than you provided to give you much help. What kind of input are you using? From what sources?
 

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I have a HLN5065W1X /XAA with the same issue. I can let it sit (unplugged) for a night and turn it on and it will be fine, if I turn it off and try turning it on 1 min or hours later it will just power cycle with lamp light. Then, after three power cycles and chime shutdown three LED's flash.

I get all relays activated aside from the ballast 99% of the time.

The lamp hesitates to turn on (brightness/light spectrum shift?) during warm up. Lamp turns on 1% of the time, but only after sitting over night, and even then it's a 50/50 chance.

I'm not much help to the poster, but I think we can work in tandem with our issue. I have read a _lot_ about this TV. I have not replaced any parts, the bulb seems new, when I disconnect the bulb the ballast still will not fire (again 1% of the time) this leads me to believe the power supply (I don't have a multimeter yet) or it's the DMD(light engine, which is WAY to expensive).

[tangent]
I would like to file a class action law suit against all corporations. Why? Well the plan for everything to break down! Why cant we have a Display Device last 20, 30 years and beyond? And if it's technologically impossible, then design every device the same so it can be upgraded or have new components installed, thus wasting less energy and resources by not making a new chassis! I am frankly against the free market system, but that's for another forum as you can tell. The revolution has to start somewhere! :D
[/tangent]

-Charles
 

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Your problem, adam, sounds more like bad caps in the power supply and/or ballast.

Class action suits generally don't get consumers much more than they would get anyway, but lawyers often make out pretty well settling these cases.

The better thing to do is to not buy from companies that do not support consumers when they have pervasive issues like this. As a comparison, Mitsubishi had problems with bad caps throughout the chassis of the first generation DLP sets. They have repaired and replaced many at no or reduced charges to clients over the years and continue to do so 5 years later. Sony did the same with the problems on their SXRD sets and LCD RP sets. Samsung has been very reluctant to do anything on these very troubled sets that have problems with bad color wheels, light tunnel collapse, and digital board problems. They have reportedly recently done some light tunnel repairs at no charge, but I am not aware of much beyond that in terms of accomodating their clients with these problems. Most vendors other than the Japanese companies will not even consider it. Samsung has been well known for years for building products to sell cheaper than the competition, and the results in these sets have been typical of Samsung for years. Hopefully, their product build quality has improved in the flat panel technologies, but their attitude with respect to OOW repair assistance does not seem to have changed much.
 

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Hey, Leonard

So I'm getting a new Multimeter today, I'll keep this thread updated.


[tangent]
Off topic, don't read, but seeming as we cannot send PMs I will recommend these readings to you, Leonard. Especially the one in bold.

* Looking Forward co-authored with Kenneth Keyes, 1969, A.S. Barnes & Company
* Introduction to Sociocyberneering, 1977
* Sociocyberneering Presents Cities in Transition, 1978
* Sociocyberneering Presents the Determinants of Behavior, 1978
* Structural Systems and Systems of Structure, 1979
* The Venus Project: The Redesign of a Culture, 1995 *World Future Society best seller
* And The World Will Be One 1997
* The Best That Money Can't Buy: Beyond Politics, Poverty & War, 2002
* Designing the Future, 2007

[/tangent]

edit: personally we need to move way beyond what we have today. Thanks for the bad cap suggestion, by the way. I apologize for being so curt.

-Charles Adam
 

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Is there some purpose in these suggested readings?
 

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I had a samsung like that. here it had bad solder joints in the power supply. after solder then the tv was fine. how long does it stay on before it shuts off? I am guessing it's something in the power supply is bad. you may want to check ebay for a power supply and just swap it out.
 

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Alright, so it's fixed!!!!

Tested ballast, 380 Volts, 5 volt from DMD, but still didn't power on. After much investigation and I think a post on these forums gave me the idea about BGA solder problems. So, I couldn't access the menu and light would not turn on. 3 flashing lights.

What I did was exactly what was done with a Digital board on these forums, applied pressure to the DLP chip(not the mirror chip) with a piece of a computer part (backplate to PCI slot) that was bent and adjusted to apply decent but not to much pressure. Voila! I haven't had a problem and have had 4-5 restarts over the past 2 days and it works great! Now, I need a remote see what the hours are on the bulb. I would recommend a more perminent fix like the one done on the digital boards with a bolt. I will do that soon.


Cheers!

P.S. Lcaillo, purpose is to spread consciousness ^_^
 

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if you start having issues again we may of found someone who can reflow the solder under the chip. we are waiting for someone to come back to let us know if the guy did a good job. the bolt on the chip didn't last after so long we all started to have issues again.

GBA chips seam to have issues. they seam to be a comon thing to try.
 

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Alright, so it's fixed!!!!

Tested ballast, 380 Volts, 5 volt from DMD, but still didn't power on. After much investigation and I think a post on these forums gave me the idea about BGA solder problems. So, I couldn't access the menu and light would not turn on. 3 flashing lights.

What I did was exactly what was done with a Digital board on these forums, applied pressure to the DLP chip(not the mirror chip) with a piece of a computer part (backplate to PCI slot) that was bent and adjusted to apply decent but not to much pressure. Voila! I haven't had a problem and have had 4-5 restarts over the past 2 days and it works great! Now, I need a remote see what the hours are on the bulb. I would recommend a more perminent fix like the one done on the digital boards with a bolt. I will do that soon.


Cheers!

P.S. Lcaillo, purpose is to spread consciousness ^_^
When posting information like this it is helpful to be very specific. When you say the DLP chip, this implies the DMD itself, ie the thing with the mirrors. There should be a location number or some other identification such as type numbers on the chip. How was it labelled? Was this a BGA chip like the DNIE chip on the digital board? Was it on the DMD board or on the digital board?
 

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I've been a viewer for awhile (MANY THANKS) but just became a member because my hlr5067 just started doing the same thing as snowbrdr1973. It used to shut off randomly but now shuts off consistantly after only about 5 minutes; the screen image "freezes" and it's off to standby mode and will start right back up, I hear the chime when turning on/off in service mode, the only led that is on is standby/temp but doesn't flash, recently replaced broken color wheel, 5700 hours on bulb, doesn't seem to be a temp issue-the fan runs but not as much as it maybe should??, inputing only from dvd via rca cable.
Thanks in advance
 
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