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Most of the recommendations I have seen are for Discount Merchant.

I can't post URLs yet but if you search for the name on Google you'll find them, then just click on "TV Lamps" on the top left of the homepage and you can see all of the Samsung compatible lamps they carry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks JadeMonkey, I'll try Discount Merchant and see what they have. Do you know if this is the only place to get Original Lamps for this TV?
 

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Thanks JadeMonkey, I'll try Discount Merchant and see what they have. Do you know if this is the only place to get Original Lamps for this TV?
There are other places that stock them as well; if you want the original lamp then you're looking for a Phillips branded lamp. Once you know the lamp number you can do a Google search and you might be able to find the lamp you need cheaper. I found the OEM Phillips lamp for my TV (BP96-01073A) for about half of the Discount Merchant price at Buy d o t com.
 

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Chances are pretty good that anyone who is selling at half the price of DM is selling non-OEM lamps. I would be surprised if anyone is buying at volumes that get them better prices than DM and they don't have that kind of margin in the lamps.

You might get lucky with a cheap replacement or rebuilt lamp, then again you might not. Experienced servicers have found it is not worth the risk because the failure rate is too high. Individual decision, but with the difficulty in diagnosing problems with lamp based sets and the high probability of lamp compatibility and defect issues, it is hard to favor the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info. I have another lamp question. On the side of my TV it says BP96-00224E(P) but when I looked on DM it says it's only for HLN617, HLN617W1X, HLN617WX, HLN617WX/XA and DM says BP96-00224B is for HLM617W, HLM617WX, HLN617WX/XAA. HLN617WX/XAA is my TV Model so the questions I have are: which lamp do I get and does it matter if it comes with the housing or not. I can put the new bulb in the old housing with no problem. I will definitely get the Phillips replacement either way. The current lamp has no numbers on it so I'm not sure what to get. Again, Thanks for the info and help.
 

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Samsung parts can be very difficult. They changed production several times in the same model in many cases. Different lamps may or may not require a different ballast. Assume that the part number on the set is the part you need. Confirm with DM that whatever you buy is a good cross for THAT part. The P probably means it is the Philips version, as opposed to the Osram version of the lamp. DM only sells the Philips lamps, last I heard, so you will probably be OK, but focus on the part number, not the model.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I talked to DM and found out which lamp I should have but I have couple of questions. I pulled the color wheel out because of the latest problem and it's a newer color wheel(replace about 2 years ago) . When I turn the TV on it makes the buzzing noise like a bad color wheel, I know because right before the old color wheel blew up it did the same thing. When I pulled the new color wheel I noticed on the little circuit board on the color wheel where the power connects(the blue and white wire) it is brown like it has been burned. Is that normal? By the way the color wheel spins freely and does not make a noise when I spin it manually.

The other question is, if the color wheel doesn't power up, it will not let the ballast and lamp turn on. Do I have the firing order right? When I turn on the TV the color wheel buzzes and then the TV goes through the rebooting process. Nevertheless, I will probably try a new color wheel.

Thank you for your time and any help you can give me.
 

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I have never seen that connector looked burned. Yes, you have the firing order correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been looking at pictures online of new color wheels and the connector is not brown and the wires are not brown by the end of the connector. I will go ahead and order a new color wheel and see if that helps.

Again, thanks for the help and quick response.
 

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Check your fans and ventilation as well as the regulated power supplies. Like I said I have never seen that and a fan would have to have a short to draw more current to generate heat in the connector. It may be more likely that the problem is external, cooling or a power supply problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I checked the fans and all is well. All 3 are running and I replaced the power supply board and because I got hit with a power surge a while back. The back access panel is totally off of the TV for now so I wouldn't think ventilation would be a problem and the inside of the cabinet is clean along with the fans. I replaced the ballast thinking that was the problem but that is not it. I have the right voltage going to the ballast and I did get a spark before the color wheel started acting up. I think I may just have a bad color wheel because the connector to the color wheel is brown and the blue and white wires are burnt about a quarter of an inch up the wires from the connector. I'll get a new color wheel and see if that helps. I'll try and post a picture of what I'm talking about.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here are the pictures:




The Arrows are pointing to the connector wires and connector itself on the color wheel. I hope you can see the brown and burnt looking areas.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here's an update on my shutting down problem. I just put a new Color Wheel in and that seems to have fixed the problem. The old one must have been hit with a power surge of some kind.
 

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It is unlikely that a power surge would ever get to a color wheel. They are just high failure items.
 
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