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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It just went out on me yesterday, after some searching and lots of reading, it looks to be a fairly common problem with these types of sets. I'm still trying to narrow down what it could be but so far it sounds like it's a digital board issue.

Here's what it does: When the set is off and has the red "standby" lit on the button, when I turn the set on (from either source, manual or remote) the "lamp" light blinks, I hear a click, then something spins up (color wheel I assume), and that's about it. After about a minute of this, it powers down and the standby light comes back on. When it's trying to power up, I can see light coming out of the back of the set, and the screen has that faint "glowing black" look to it and not the "dead black" look like when the set is off. No chime either.

I am going to try this pressure trick and see what it does, but does it sound like I'm heading in the correct direction?

Thanks
 

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Does it stay on for a moment or not???

Do you have any blinking light in the front (besides the standby light)???

I was having problems with my HLS6767W, mine was shutting down by itself after 5-15min; but mine blinked "Lamp and Standby", according to manual it was the lamp cover....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It never really "turns on" per se, it tries to power up for a minute or 2 then shuts down again. And the standby light doesn't blink, it's only lit when the set is off, when I hit the power button the standby light goes away and only "lamp" is lit and blinking. When it gives up and powers down, standby comes back and is the only thing lit, like normal.
 

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Did you try completely disconecting from AC outlet and let the TV reset???

It helped me before with another issue...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I tried that yesterday after it happened, the wife came across someone that suggested that online, we left it unplugged for almost 2 hours.
 

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Sounds like what my unit does when I disconnected the lamp door/cover switch or thermostat.

For a QUICK (and not very safe) TEST, use a 'jumper' from a PC motherboard/older IDE drive and JUMP the connectors for BOTH the thermostat and the blue switch for the lamp door/cover.

You may need to 'trim' some of the plastic off a regular size jumper to get it to fit into the board for the switch but it fits perfect for the thermostat.

This is dangerous because if the unit overheats it has no safety shut off this way so do NOT LEAVE IT THIS WAY.

If it works, you know the issue is one of those two things.
 

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Mine did this with a bad digital board. It would just sit with the lamp light blinking then it would turn off and the standby/temp light would come on. It could be an issue with the dnie chip that we talked about in other topics. Very common issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually I found the issue, I did the pressure trick the day after I posted this and the set turned on without a problem, and faster than it has in a very long time. So I know that its the digital board.

The funny thing is... is that it still currently working, its been a month and a half and the set still works flawlessly. When the day comes that it finally gives up (which I know it will) I'm going to replace it with a plasma, and may just buy a new board and keep this set as a "beater" tv for my basement
 

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Actually I found the issue, I did the pressure trick the day after I posted this and the set turned on without a problem, and faster than it has in a very long time. So I know that its the digital board.

The funny thing is... is that it still currently working, its been a month and a half and the set still works flawlessly. When the day comes that it finally gives up (which I know it will) I'm going to replace it with a plasma, and may just buy a new board and keep this set as a "beater" tv for my basement
The pressure trick worked on mine for about a week. Then i started to get the green plaid. I tried to reflow the solder myself and cooked the dnie chip. I had to buy another board. Now people are offering to reflow the chips on ebay. The one guy says he reballs them and gives a 1 year warranty on the repair and charges 65 dollars with free return shipping to you.
 

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That sounds too good to be true.
 

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That sounds too good to be true.
Thats what i thought. but if you read the listing it says 12 month warranty, but if you look he only has 28 feedback. Too new of an account to know if he will stand behind his repairs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-BP94-01...154?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5f5c1fda


This guy is charging 40 plus 13 shipping. Listing says 100 day warranty. This guy has more feedback.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-BP96-02...662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41541b2266

If i knew the one year warranty guy stands behind his work. It would be a better deal since its not much more to have a longer warranty. We will have to wait to see what kind of feedback they receive.
 

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Without more detail on these guys, they are a long shot, like most ebay operations. What you don't see is how many of his repairs fail and he has to refund the money. One has to be skeptical of operations that offer services like this with extremely low prices.

The matter of testing these boards is not simple. You have to have a live set that is the correct model AND it takes lots of time. One would want to run a board like this through a number of thermal cycles and test many functions before declaring that it is completely working. I suspect that the testing is minimal, at best.

The fact is that repairing boards with BGA chips is very problematic. The major rebuilders who do the boards for manufacturers like Samsung, Hitachi, or others have VERY high failure rates on these kinds of repairs. You would expect a small operation like these ebay players to be less effective, as it is unlikely that they have the extensive testing setups and clean rooms, nor the high volume of units to get the experience with the problems of individual boards.

I have discussed the matter of these repairs with a number of companies that do them or have considered doing them and they all have the same experience. Even with reballing, the best guesses are failure rates in the 10-20% range, and with reflow only over 50%. Most have begged off on them because there are too many variables, and you cannot get the parts and documentation in the detail needed from Samsung and others.

The point here is not that one should not try to have a board fixed nor that one should not DIY repairs. The point is that there is almost always more in the way of pitfalls than most people who do not do repairs for a living will know. One should be prepared for those and understand the risks. Most professionals will not attempt repairs that they do not have significant control over and will not accept the kind of failure rates that are typical in these situations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bit of a grave dig I know, but here's an update on my TV.

It FINALLY completely died on me about 2 weeks ago. Since my last post in this thread it gradually got worse but hung in there for much longer than I would have thought. After a few months it would like to turn itself off right after I started using it, but after it got warmed up a few off/on cycles later, it would be fine for the rest of the day, it only did this for a couple weeks and then was no longer an issue. A few weeks later it would no longer receive HDMI input, and the only component video signal it would accept was from my cable box. About month later it went green plaid on me for a few days, but came back around, it never did it again. Then a few months later it dropped the sound, nothing but garbled noise, so I split the audio off into a receiver and set of speakers I had laying around. It last all the way up to about 2 weeks ago, and now it refuses to power on.

Long story short, the "pressure trick" lasted me 10 months. A record I'm sure.

Now I haven't quite decided what to do yet, should I buy a new board, or should I just replace it with a new tv? With tv prices so cheap anymore, I would almost rather have a new one. This is just my basement tv that I use for gaming and is not my main living room tv. I have also toyed with the idea of an HD projector, being in the basement, I think I can get away with it pretty easily.
 

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Bit of a grave dig I know, but here's an update on my TV.

It FINALLY completely died on me about 2 weeks ago. Since my last post in this thread it gradually got worse but hung in there for much longer than I would have thought. After a few months it would like to turn itself off right after I started using it, but after it got warmed up a few off/on cycles later, it would be fine for the rest of the day, it only did this for a couple weeks and then was no longer an issue. A few weeks later it would no longer receive HDMI input, and the only component video signal it would accept was from my cable box. About month later it went green plaid on me for a few days, but came back around, it never did it again. Then a few months later it dropped the sound, nothing but garbled noise, so I split the audio off into a receiver and set of speakers I had laying around. It last all the way up to about 2 weeks ago, and now it refuses to power on.

Long story short, the "pressure trick" lasted me 10 months. A record I'm sure.

Now I haven't quite decided what to do yet, should I buy a new board, or should I just replace it with a new tv? With tv prices so cheap anymore, I would almost rather have a new one. This is just my basement tv that I use for gaming and is not my main living room tv. I have also toyed with the idea of an HD projector, being in the basement, I think I can get away with it pretty easily.
Since you know what is wrong with the tv sell parts on ebay. Sell off the light engine and other parts and use that as a down payment on a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not a bad idea, what parts would you deem sellable? Only things I can think of is color wheel, lamp, power supply/board, and maybe the sound bar/speakers... and possibly the digital board for parts, I see fried ones on ebay for ~$70.

Also, browsing around on craisglist, I seen a guy that is buying non working dlp and lcd tv's, so I may email him and see what he will give me for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I contacted that guy from craigslist, he told me he would give me $50 for it, so I think parting it out on ebay would be my more profitable choice.
 

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I contacted that guy from craigslist, he told me he would give me $50 for it, so I think parting it out on ebay would be my more profitable choice.
The guy that reflows the solder says he reballs them for like 100 dollars. It maybe worth sending it in for repair.

you could sell off the light engine as a hole, so the ballast,color wheel, dmd board, light tunel would all go as one unit. I am thinking you could get 100 out of it without the lamp. Sell the lamp and housing together. power supply, analog board. Then maybe sell the digital board for parts or repair. But thats up to you.
 
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